UKC

Restricted Access

There are frequently problems with car crime in the Stanage area. DO NOT LEAVE ANY VALUABLES ON DISPLAY IN CARS OR MINIBUSES.

Camper vans are becoming an issue with local residents and farmers as their concerns over human waste (and contamination of water supplies) increase with the number of vans overnighting in the various parking areas and laybys there. Please respect this incredible area and the people living wihin it by not overnighting in campervans at Stanage - a number of formal campsites are available locally including North Lees campsite

 

Access restrictions under CRoW  sometimes apply to areas north of the causeway, these vary each year - see signing at access points, or check the PDNP website for closure dates.

2023 published closure dates are: - August 29th - 31st; September 1st, 4th-8th, 11th - 15th, 18th - 22nd and 25th - 29th; October 2nd - 5th

 

These closures do not affect any public rights of way or concessionary paths which remain open.

Seasonal Restrictions

Dates: 1 May to 30 July

Reason: Nesting Birds

Ring ouzels are nesting on Stanage, Burbage and Bamford this year. The nest sites change quickly and frequently as ring ouzels often have several broods each year with different nest sites for each brood. On site signage will be up around any of the nest sites where climbing may impact on the birds and this is always up to date and accurate.

Stanage from High Neb westwards (and Bamford Edge, Moscar, Derwent & Hallam Moors) has a permenant dog restriction and in addition can be for land management reasons, as allowed under the CRoW Act (which allows the landowner to restrict access for up to 28 days per year). Full details of any restrictions and the areas affected can be found by searching for 'Stanage' on the Natural England open access maps website and scrolling to the restrictions section at the bottom of the page. 

These closures do not affect public rights of way (which remain open) or the concessionary paths to Stanage.

6m.

Rockfax Description
Climb straight up the delicate slab to a mantelshelf finish. © Rockfax

FA. Chris Craggs 1997.

Ticklists

Grit Top Rope Solo

Feedback

User Date Notes
Horse 5 Jan, 2003 Show βeta
βeta: Going straight up from the start and eschewing anything like a pebble or big hold on Splinter surely makes this 5c. Both a fine examples of short, bold, mid grade technical climbs.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Going straight up from the start and eschewing anything like a pebble or big hold on Splinter surely makes this 5c. Both a fine examples of short, bold, mid grade technical climbs.
Nick Smith - Climbers 16 May, 2002 Show βeta
βeta: Desperate! (but then I'm rubbish at delicate slabs). Definitely harder than Splinter (HVS 5c) to the right.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Desperate! (but then I'm rubbish at delicate slabs). Definitely harder than Splinter (HVS 5c) to the right.

Logged Ascents

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Guidebooks for Stanage Plantation

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Voting
High E1
Mid E1
Low E1
High HVS
Mid HVS
Low HVS
High VS
Mid VS
Low VS
Votes cast 16
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
High 5a
Mid 5a
Low 5a
Votes cast 17
Votes cast 12
Style of Ascent
Soloed
Toproped
Bouldered
Lead
Followed
Not Set
Onsighted
Redpoint
Flashed (β)
Repeated
Ground Up
DNF
Not Set
Route of Interest
Jester Cracks

Grade: HVS 5a ***
(Kinder Northern Edges)

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