UKC

Restricted Access

There are frequently problems with car crime in the Stanage area. DO NOT LEAVE ANY VALUABLES ON DISPLAY IN CARS OR MINIBUSES.

Camper vans are becoming an issue with local residents and farmers as their concerns over human waste (and contamination of water supplies) increase with the number of vans overnighting in the various parking areas and laybys there. Please respect this incredible area and the people living wihin it by not overnighting in campervans at Stanage - a number of formal campsites are available locally including North Lees campsite

 

Access restrictions under CRoW  sometimes apply to areas north of the causeway, these vary each year - see signing at access points, or check the PDNP website for closure dates.

2023 published closure dates are: - August 29th - 31st; September 1st, 4th-8th, 11th - 15th, 18th - 22nd and 25th - 29th; October 2nd - 5th

 

These closures do not affect any public rights of way or concessionary paths which remain open.

Seasonal Restrictions

Dates: 1 May to 30 July

Reason: Nesting Birds

Ring ouzels are nesting on Stanage, Burbage and Bamford this year. The nest sites change quickly and frequently as ring ouzels often have several broods each year with different nest sites for each brood. On site signage will be up around any of the nest sites where climbing may impact on the birds and this is always up to date and accurate.

Stanage from High Neb westwards (and Bamford Edge, Moscar, Derwent & Hallam Moors) has a permenant dog restriction and in addition can be for land management reasons, as allowed under the CRoW Act (which allows the landowner to restrict access for up to 28 days per year). Full details of any restrictions and the areas affected can be found by searching for 'Stanage' on the Natural England open access maps website and scrolling to the restrictions section at the bottom of the page. 

These closures do not affect public rights of way (which remain open) or the concessionary paths to Stanage.

10m.

Rockfax Description
An easier way up the slab, but still thin and high. f7A+ if you gain the flakes direct (without pockets and sidepulls out right). © Rockfax

FA. Steve Bancroft 1980.

Ticklists

ROCKFAX Eastern Grit (2006): Top 500 , Stanage Routes BMC Graded List , Best slab climbs of the UK , The Black Circuit - Stanage , Stanage E1 Challenge (1989 Guide) , Ron Fawcetts 100 extremes in a day , Peak District Highballs , The grit list , BMC highballs , Slab Dreams , Stanage Slab , Martin’s 1980’s Ticklist

Feedback

User Date Notes
Graham Hoey 16 Apr, 2007 Show βeta
βeta: The boulder and arete are definitely out.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: The boulder and arete are definitely out.
Fiend 10 Mar, 2007 Show βeta
βeta: Ridiculously hard without the arete or boulder to the right. Having warmed up flashing Sleepwalker then Daydreamer, I couldn't come close to this despite dozens of efforts in good conditions. If this is English 6a, Satin is English 5b.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Ridiculously hard without the arete or boulder to the right. Having warmed up flashing Sleepwalker then Daydreamer, I couldn't come close to this despite dozens of efforts in good conditions. If this is English 6a, Satin is English 5b.

Logged Ascents

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Voting
High f6C+
Mid f6C+
Low f6C+
High f6C
Mid f6C
Low f6C
High f6B+
Mid f6B+
Low f6B+
Votes cast 12
Votes cast 40
Style of Ascent
Bouldered
Soloed
Lead
Followed
Toproped
Not Set
Redpoint
Onsighted
Repeated
DNF
Flashed (β)
Ground Up
Not Set
Route of Interest
Pogle's Wood

Grade: f6C ***
(Gardom's Edge)

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