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10m.

Rockfax Description
Low in the grade and popular. The centre of the slab leads boldly to the break where a crucial mantel gains a standing position. A final difficult move up the pebbly slab remains. A right-hand variation is very inferior at E2 5c/6a depending on reach. © Rockfax

FA. Steve Bancroft 1978.

Ticklists

ROCKFAX Eastern Grit (2006): Top 500, Stanage Routes BMC Graded List, Best slab climbs of the UK, Hardish grit routes that have good gear but aren't staminafests, Ultimate E3 ticklist, 2017, Eastern Grit Trip: The Best Of The Proposed Crags.

Feedback

User Date Notes
Chad123 27 Nov, 2006 Show βeta
βeta: Fun route, and yes definitely easier the taller you are, the break is not a good as you think it's going to be at some points! Mantle crux is well protected though, I had to thutch and wiggle to get the mantle sorted!
 
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βeta: Fun route, and yes definitely easier the taller you are, the break is not a good as you think it's going to be at some points! Mantle crux is well protected though, I had to thutch and wiggle to get the mantle sorted!
IOAN D 28 Oct, 2005 Show βeta
βeta: brilliant route,exellent gear. outstanding. really deserves 3 stars!!
 
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βeta: brilliant route,exellent gear. outstanding. really deserves 3 stars!!
Alun 26 Sep, 2005 Show βeta
βeta: This route only really has three moves: 1) getting hands in the break 2) getting feet in the break and 3) getting hands on the top. If you're tall enough (I'm not), you don't have to do move (3)! Personally while move (3) is perhaps the technical crux I thought the hardest bit was move (1), cos it's a bit tenous and it's a nasty tumble if you come off.
 
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βeta: This route only really has three moves: 1) getting hands in the break 2) getting feet in the break and 3) getting hands on the top. If you're tall enough (I'm not), you don't have to do move (3)! Personally while move (3) is perhaps the technical crux I thought the hardest bit was move (1), cos it's a bit tenous and it's a nasty tumble if you come off.
goi.ashmore 4 Sep, 2005 Show βeta
βeta: It used to be a bit gnarly before someone dug out the break in the late 80s - there was no gear when I did it in about '88. I seem to remember the crux was the start, but then again I was scared on the top. Nothing to do with the last move, more to do with the fact that this big Alsatian put his head over the top with a large stone in it. I think he wanted to play and I was worried he'd drop it. Funnily enough it was with Steve Bancroft..
 
Show beta
βeta: It used to be a bit gnarly before someone dug out the break in the late 80s - there was no gear when I did it in about '88. I seem to remember the crux was the start, but then again I was scared on the top. Nothing to do with the last move, more to do with the fact that this big Alsatian put his head over the top with a large stone in it. I think he wanted to play and I was worried he'd drop it. Funnily enough it was with Steve Bancroft..
Cottie 25 May, 2005 Show βeta
βeta: I'm over 6 foot my second is just over 5'4" - strangely we both disagreed on the technical grade. Both agreed, however, that it's a great route.
βeta?
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βeta: I'm over 6 foot my second is just over 5'4" - strangely we both disagreed on the technical grade. Both agreed, however, that it's a great route.
Iggy_B 21 May, 2005 Show βeta
βeta: Harder to mantel and rock up if you are tall but then it's very easy at the top!
βeta?
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βeta: Harder to mantel and rock up if you are tall but then it's very easy at the top!
Duncan I 4 May, 2004 Show βeta
βeta: 5c for the tall, whichever finish you choose. I'm tall and can't climb 6a. Nice rest at the break as well so not that sustained. Cracking route tho'.
βeta?
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βeta: 5c for the tall, whichever finish you choose. I'm tall and can't climb 6a. Nice rest at the break as well so not that sustained. Cracking route tho'.
Furzy Sleight 18 Oct, 2003 Show βeta
βeta: Excellent typical grit at its best!
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Excellent typical grit at its best!
ian bryant 2 Jan, 2003 Show βeta
βeta: my first 6a lead and a worthy one, very enjoyable and satisfying.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: my first 6a lead and a worthy one, very enjoyable and satisfying.

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High E4
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Low E3
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Votes cast 137
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Votes cast 138
Votes cast 125
Style of Ascent
Lead
Followed
Toproped
Soloed
Not Set
Onsighted
Redpoint
Dogged
Flashed (β)
Repeated
DNF
Ground Up
Not Set
Route of Interest

Laurin

Grade: E3 6a ***
(High Tor)