Rockfax Description
A gem of a route, but like all gems rather polished - a sign of its allure as one of the best E2s in the country. The route is best done in one pitch, but can be split either at the large break at 20m or right of the flake almost in line with the Debauchery stance (in Perseus). Start below the prominent groove. Climb the groove to a ledge below the bulge (optional stance to reduce rope drag higher up). Pull through the bulge on the left and follow the crack above until a step right gains another crack. Continue past Debauchery into another groove on the left. Continue up the flake above to a position below the big old bolt. Pass this leftwards via a wonderful manoeuvre and finish up a steep groove to the top. Alternatively climb past the bolt at a polished E3 6a. © Rockfax

FFA. Pete Livesey in 1974. FA. Oliver Woolcock, Clive Rowland, Paul Nunn 1963. The current bolt was placed by Chris Craggs, nearly 20 years ago!

Ticklists: Extreme Rock, Great Wall Climbs of the UK, The High Tor Top Ten, Classic Rock Climbs In Northern England by Bill Birket, Rockfax Peak Limestone Top 50, Classic Peak Limestone Trad - VDiff to E2, 100 best limestone climbs in Britain, World Graded List, Peak Rock/10/White Life, Ultimate E2 ticklist, The best the UK has to offer for mere mortals (apart from the lakes cos its always wet), The best the UK has to offer for beasts (apart from the lakes cos its always wet).

mattnuttall 15/Oct AltLd O/S

Split at flakes in Perseus as Andy ran out of gear. Which was possibly predictable having left some of the quickdrawers on the ground. Doh! Quite hard for E2 I thought

greenclimb 16/Sep Lead rpt
with Lucy, Sarah
FeargalR 16/Sep 2nd O/S
Mike505 01/Sep Lead G/U

Returned after 2 years for the ground up attempt. Felt pretty cruise-y until the bolt, looked to go direct but couldn't make the holds work (now realise I needed to step right first). Took the left variant following the slanting groove/hand traverse then cut back right via big move above the bolt, threw in a size 1 nut using my last sling as a quick draw (19th placement) and somehow made it to the top, that's a hell of a sequence at E2!

Brannock 01/Sep 2nd rpt
Dale ?/Sep Lead

Absoluting amazing climbing and so absorbing. I feel like the onsight got stolen away from me by the weather. Got to the top crux and it started raining foot slipped on wet foot hold passing bolt. Managed a wet crux second time. Climbed the last 5m in heavy rain got a little scared while racing to the top the top was soaking. What a adventure. Abbed down to get the gear to wet to second sorry andy. I got so wet

with Andy
spidermonkey09 19/Aug Lead

E3 without a shadow of a doubt. Started pissing it down with rain at the bolt so had to gun it through the finish on increasingly wet holds! Needs a stake at the top.

Mark Stevenson 16/Aug Lead O/S

Clean, although with much zigzagging and a dropped krab of wires. Moves up a left from bolt are great, although probably no harder than other sections of the route.

with Chris Hindley
Gabe Oliver 06/Aug Lead O/S

Great route. Didn't find it particularly high in the grade and the top section isn't as difficult to figure out as people seem to say. I went direct to the ring bolt, clipped it and stepped left to finish through the steep section. Not too hard and well protected by the old bolt+peg. Done as 2 pitches due to

marcduhig 29/Jul Lead O/S
with Alan
hotfeet 29/Jul 2nd

Climbed top section only, above where Debauchery crosses the route.

MSchobitz 08/Jul Lead O/S

Awesome route! Several 'cruxes' with 5b/c moves in between decent rests. Good gear, though you need to use it sparingly so not to run out! Reading these comments, I may have done the E3 6a top out? Clipped the bolt and climbed up and left past slippery feet and decent mono-pockets to a thank god jug just below the obvious corner/groove. Felt very hard for 5c, but at the time I just thought it was the pump!

mrteale 08/Jul 2nd rpt

Nice to get back on this and go the correct way at the top! Good lead by Micky in the hot sun.

katy_abra 21/Jun Lead O/S
Jono_LS16 03/Jun Lead O/S

Left hand finish past the bolt. Ran out of draws at 2/3 height, steady climbing but felt spicy as a result. Lesson learned.

Hidden 07/May Lead
ian bryant 30/Apr Lead O/S
JendeHoxar 30/Apr AltLd O/S
FlavioL1989 30/Apr AltLd O/S
with Jenny
LastBoyScout ??/2017 Lead O/S
cymjt 15/Oct/16 2nd O/S

Ignore the rockfax description at the top, it doesn't make a lot of sense...the line in the book is roughly right though. You'll need an extra 20m rope to reach the tree, even with 60m ropes.

james.slater 15/Oct/16 Lead O/S

Did the E2 (original?) finish right of the bolt and in one huge pitch. Absolutely awesome, one of the best routes I've done in the UK.

Hidden 24/Sep/16 Lead O/S
benkelsey 18/Sep/16 Lead β

Did the direct finish in a oner, took 2 hours, sorry jamie. Hot day and hurty feet. Very sustained with the odd good rest. Placed 27 runners but there are still some bits that feel nicely bold. Cheers for great shots and beta from the abb rope harry. About as hard as Bloody Sunday in the leap, so e2 even just to the bolt is laughable. Clipped the bolt like a mega punter and had ~20kg of rope drag to pull up the final groove. World class line and moves.

Hidden 18/Sep/16 2nd O/S
Adam Long 17/Sep/16 2nd

Direct finish. Didn't notice polish tbh.

with Char Williams
Graeme Hammond 04/Sep/16 Lead rpt
with Gavin Singleton
Hidden 07/Aug/16 Lead O/S
greenclimb 31/Jul/16 Lead rpt
with Lucy, Sarah
Hidden 26/Jul/16 AltLd
AlexD 22/Jul/16 2nd dog
with Ed
Ed Babs 22/Jul/16 Lead RP

Slipped off this in 2009 but felt like an OS today. Great climbing and full value for E2.

with AlexD
Mike_Hayes 03/Jul/16 2nd rpt
with Duncan Barrack
john lynch 03/Jul/16 2nd O/S


with Lewis Andrew
Fraser13 ?/Jul/16 -
ukb & bmc shark 23/Jun/16 Lead rpt
with Nick Conway
Graeme Smithy 05/Jun/16 Lead O/S

Done in one pitch, long route hardest bits were lower down the route but that may have been due to warming up whilst on the route. Its a lot of climbing - rock fax description seems wrong going up and left past the bolt is the direct 6a finish. The RH finish is the normal way and one 5b/c move only. Could not reach the tree at the back even with 60m ropes so sat on the banking a long way back.

with Dale Holding,
Jake Young 04/Jun/16 2nd O/S

With the direct finish, wrong handed myself on the direct finish which made it feel quite tricky.

James Oswald 04/Jun/16 Lead O/S

Tough - I placed 27 runners but still felt runout at times... Did the direct finish up past the bolt.

Andy Peak 1 29/May/16 2nd
Hidden 16/May/16 Lead O/S
Mike_Hayes 15/May/16 Lead rpt
harry_lewis 08/May/16 Lead dnf

Sacked it off, too hot

Gambit 05/May/16 Lead rpt

Lead in one pitch but traversed right too early. Rope drag +++

ferdia 10/Apr/16 Lead O/S

e3 finish. though this was easier than much of the route, which is basically e3. one of the best pitches I've ever lead.

Andy Moles 10/Apr/16 2nd

Amazing. Polish nowhere near as bad as made out. As hard as a lot of E3s.

with Ferdia
Matt Cooke 13/Mar/16 Lead O/S
Dale Comley 13/Mar/16 2nd O/S

Top section was great, boma mono

harvie ??/2016 -
James Thacker ??/2016 -
The Grist 03/Oct/15 Lead O/S
with Dan Metcalfe
manwithacam 03/Oct/15 2nd

What a great climb, really meaty, full 50m and challenging and absorbing from the 1st to the last.

with Mark
Longsufferingropeholder 06/Sep/15 Lead

A minefield of polished holds. Was going ok until I stepped on one trying to reverse to the bolt from the blank, gearless, holdless void out left. Thanks for that, rockfax (cheers for the bolt though, Chris C!). 5c my arse. Fell about 10m onto the bolt, which held. Got back up, licked some of the blood off my fingers, and after a lot of feeling around found a much more sensible finish just to the right. This may have been E2, 5c and 3* once, but I don't think it's any of those today. It felt dangerous all the way. A good one to second.

with C May
C May 06/Sep/15 2nd dog

Polished. Finished right. One rest.

with Tim
Andrew Sloan 15/Aug/15 Lead dnf

I made it as far as the flake about 1/3 of the way up before my foot slipped on the polish. Pleased to make it through the lower overhang which looked incredibly intimidating from below.

mrteale 16/Jul/15 Lead O/S

'Cleanish'. Lead as a one'er, pretty terrified most of the way up it and spent far too long! Not sure if I went the correct way at the top... went to the right of the bolt, up and then traversed back left above it with a cheeky foot on the bolt to get my head together... Great line, psyched to lead it again and maybe enjoy it a bit more next time!

Graham Westbrook 16/Jul/15 Lead O/S

One of the best routes I have ever done!

Dawn_K_B 16/Jul/15 2nd O/S

Pumpy and sustained the whole way up, found it hard. The top was really reachy for me but lower down was generally just pumpy! Good lead Ed (1.5 hours later)!

Alkis 12/Jul/15 2nd dog

Note to self, do not use destroyed shoes. The rubber started coming off near the top, managed the crux, came off going for the last jug of the climb... :-(

OliverRoss 12/Jul/15 Lead O/S
with Alkis
Jim Slater 11/Jul/15 2nd dog

Hard sustained climbing for the whole 50m. The 5c moves at the top were just too much for me. Great lead from Charlie.

with Charlie
Hidden 11/Jul/15 Lead O/S
ian d f 27/Jun/15 Lead O/S

Tried to do in single pitch but rope drag and the fact I had no gear left dictated I belay at the bolt and treads. Did E3 finish.

pearson9596 27/Jun/15 2nd O/S
Andy Peak 1 20/Jun/15 Lead rpt

Intended to do as one pich never worked out that way

pie_eater_pete 05/Jun/15 -
bwestwood 05/Jun/15 AltLd

Split in 2 I did first pitch until opposite debauchery stance, 5b

with pete sargeant
Theo Moore - UKC and UKH 30/May/15 Lead O/S

4 stars. Intense.

with Roisin
andyjirvin 23/May/15 2nd O/S

Wow. What a route. Michal led it all in one, which is 50m of very sustained climbing at the grade. I just managed it clean on second. Would love to lead, would need to work on fitness/stamina more than anything. Or break it up into two pitches.

Mike505 26/Apr/15 Lead dnf

Pumped out gaining the groove just below the bolt, now eager for round 2! For those wanting to one pitch it (and belay a second) , it's just possible on 60m doubles but you may want a spare line pre placed at the top for an anchor on the tree. I had 5m cordlett for the ab and made it to the ground with 6" to spare (on stretch).

dominic lee 25/Apr/15 2nd
with Sam Hamer
Jack93 25/Apr/15 Lead O/S

Really cool route! Found the crux to be right at the top which wasn't helpful as I was knackered at that point. Some really good rests though, basically hands off at a few points.

Joris.Roulleau 18/Apr/15 2nd O/S
manwithacam 18/Apr/15 Lead β

This route been high on tick list since crossing it whilst on Debauchery last year, what a line, what a long pitch. Wasn't quite expecting the first crux lower down. The top crux sure is tricky even with beta (thanks Alan). Stunning weather, a top day with a lead of M1 and second of Skylight. Psyched.

with Joris
Stoney Boy 15/Apr/15 2nd rpt
with Nick Conway
Hidden 13/Apr/15 Lead O/S
Nickc ?/Apr/15 Lead O/S
phil64 ??/2015 -
rocksol ??/2015 -
jcw ??/2015 -
Hidden ??/2015 -
Mike_Hayes 28/Sep/14 2nd
with Mike Lea
Brannock 27/Sep/14 Lead rpt

Been putting this off for about two years, and still only just got up it clean. Pretty sure I was going to come off the top crux move. Probably E3, quite a few 5c moves, but plenty of rests and gear, crux right at the top. Great route.

Ed morris 17/Sep/14 Lead O/S

In drizzle. Probably better than LW, more interesting for sure.

with paul
Dave Almond 31/Aug/14 AltLd dnf

Still can't get the move but the route to their is great and the 2 fall are exciting

Hidden 20/Aug/14 Lead O/S
eel 19/Aug/14 2nd rpt
with Andy J
bigdrew 19/Aug/14 Lead rpt

Great to do this again.. In a oner this time. Still couldn't reach the tree with 60's

with Eve
fabricio 27/Jul/14 Lead O/S

first time at High Tor, what an introduction. committing left from the bolt, which now has a maillon, no thread.

with lee
Duncan Campbell 16/Jul/14 2nd

Brilliant but probably E3.

with Stadders
jon_gill1 09/Jul/14 AltLd dog

Well its been a long time coming, finally got on this route on a windy and threatening to rain Wednesday evening after work. Chris led the first pitch up to the thread belay stance that debauchery crosses, he did a great job and held it together when 3 nuts plummeted towards my head and the rest he caught as they slid off my oval biner,climbing to the belay stance with a mouth full of nuts was pretty inspiring although sounds dodgy! I climbed up to Chris with all the world on my shoulders from a tough few weeks at work and the pressure of Yosemite and climbing El Cap looming ever closer! I could feel my climbing was not its usual self by a any means, I struggled with a couple of moves and found it awkward to see the fut placements near the crux of the first pitch in the darkness from the threatening clouds as small drops of rain started to hit my face. Reaching the belay I know that this is going to be the hardest lead ever for me in this state, a passing joke,yet with some seriousness to Chris that im not sure i will be able to climb this today was met with the words of "well i'm sure as hell not going to" So press on i must with the fear still fresh in my mind from climbing the deathtrap E3 at Craig Arthur the week before. I nervously move on upwards and eventually after passing the thread i start slipping in and out of being back on form. cack handedly putting a wire in before moving up to calmly unclip it and turn it to the correct position! This helped me to feel that i was getting back in the swing of things,i moved on upwards to below the bolt and thread, moving up through the jug to clip them. what an amazing place to be, high above the river and the sound of cars and bikers out for an evenings blast, I zone back in and press on.as i move across the jug that id pulled up through i realise its going to get tricky!I come to the realisation that i will need to use the small pockets in my right hand and step up on the small polished footholds to reach out to the small side pull and the cross my hands over to gain the large side pull........then nothing, where are the holds,confused i spend the best part of 10 minutes clinging on desperately looking for a hold i may have missed. Its no use, i'm pumped out of my mind and i realise that i will have to take the lob onto the bolt....years of this uber classic looming large in my mind about to fade into failure, just as my hands are about to give out the voice of my friends Jim and Geoff having just topped out on Debauchery offer me a top rope. Glancing at my watch I see its 9.45pm with very little light for chris to get up behind me,I accept the kind offer. Down the final grove comes the rope with a large hms attached clattering its way towards me, as i clip it in to my belay loop I realise the beast has beaten me but it was so worth getting on. On two days of reflection I still think its much closer to E3 than E2 and top end 5c.

with chris Lyness
Andy Peak 1 09/Jul/14 AltLd

All went clean this time having bean shown the way. Previosly had fallen off having gon off route on the upper flake, next time as one pich

Hidden 29/Jun/14 Lead rpt
Hidden 29/Jun/14 2nd
Hidden 20/Jun/14 2nd
eel 20/Jun/14 Lead O/S
with Pete
WillDoyle 14/Jun/14 2nd
with Mike
disturbed_one51 12/Jun/14 2nd
with Wee man
Jonathan Hall 12/Jun/14 Lead dnf

Gutted to climb 45m then bail way above the bolt. Needless to say after the third fall I couldn't face another whipper. Still not sure if I was going far enough left from undercuts.

Dave Almond 18/May/14 Lead dnf
dswansonlow 17/May/14 Lead O/S
with Fingers
Ricky Rocks 11/Apr/14 Lead O/S
mike mo ??/2014 -
Dan-Cheetham ??/2014 -
Hannes B 05/Oct/13 Lead rpt
with Danny
robgixer 28/Sep/13 2nd
masa-alpin 28/Sep/13 Lead O/S

One move (a few metres below the bolt) was a solid 6a, but my choice of the holds/line might be wrong. The best single-pitch Peak limestone route I have ever done. Superb.

with Rob G
Hidden 18/Sep/13 AltLd
Chris Wright 29/Aug/13 Lead rpt
Hidden 21/Aug/13 2nd dog
Simon Davis 18/Aug/13 Lead

Sorting out unfinished business from years back.

with Tim P
J.Wells 14/Aug/13 Lead O/S
with Ima Nahumury
helenstuart 10/Aug/13 2nd dog
with Mike
Apharri 08/Aug/13 Lead O/S

Fell of this when I was 14, amazing to go back and do it. Couldn't remember a thing about it. Top move felt 6a

with Jim Gayler
alasdair19 ?/Aug/13 2nd

dan led it in 28 minutes to give himself a challenge... had led it a few times methinks

tonevert 28/Jul/13 2nd
with Kevin Faux
Kevster 27/Jul/13 Lead dog

As one pitch. Hard E2, done easier E3s. The old bolt took another fall. Top section takes a lot of traverse left, not a move or so then up like I tried. Ran out of runners and slings to extend. Will go clean 2nd time round, nice to see some acomplished climbers struggle with the OS from comments. Makes me feel better!

greenclimb 20/Jul/13 Lead
with Sarah
duncan 14/Jul/13 AltLd rpt
with Hugo Glover
tebs 01/Jul/13 Lead dnf

Fell about 35 metres up. Lost all psyche to finish it. It had been going quite well and I wasn't remotely pumped after properly chilling out by the peg, but screwed up the sequence on the bulge above this and couldn't reverse. Annoying but to be honest I was climbing like a spanner all evening. Good to be kept honest by a classic piece of peak lime! Bit of a faff getting gear back. Sorry Rob!

with Rob Adie
w.pettet-smith 12/Jun/13 Lead

flippin amazin! best route for a while.

with oli
Wood for Trees 09/Jun/13 Lead dnf

predictably fell from top, panic forced me into making the move off the dirt crimp rather than moving one more move left into jugs, big fall onto bolt/thread. Truly gutted. Best route of the year so far

with Shark
ukb & bmc shark 09/Jun/13 Lead rpt
with Guy Van Gruenning
petellis 08/Jun/13 2nd dog
with Broomy
Ian Broome 08/Jun/13 Lead

Enjoyed returning to this 5 years since falling of it and having a bit more in the pot.

Hidden 02/Jun/13 Lead O/S
Gambit 01/Jun/13 Lead dnf

Combination of rope drag and lack of fitness, will split into two pitches next time

with Josh
nickdonohue 25/May/13 2nd
with Ian Bryant
ukb & bmc shark 02/May/13 Lead rpt
with Stefan Gallagher
buzby78 23/Apr/13 Lead
with McGeek
Hidden 06/Apr/13 -
Nick Sillem ??/2013 -
Tony Kartawick ??/2013 -

Did this 2 or 3 times .. remember the black tat hanging from the bolt !!

ejected ??/2013 Lead O/S
Rob Greenwood - UKClimbing ??/2013 Lead O/S

One of the best routes in the country

with Katy Whittaker
ianto ??/2013 -
captain ??/2013 -
JRae 11/Nov/12 Lead

Absolutely ace. Amazing pocketed rock. Nice that it felt easy too. Crux is right at the top, after the thread / bolt.

mwatson 11/Nov/12 2nd rpt

Loads of rests not too hard

Hidden 29/Sep/12 Lead rpt
Haydn Jones 22/Sep/12 2nd O/S
with pep
Hidden 06/Sep/12 2nd
Glenn Sutcliffe 05/Sep/12 2nd
with Pete Cresswell
Si dH 01/Jul/12 Lead β

Finally done it :) Had fallen off from on the big undercuts just after the final crux two years ago. It takes so much effort and all-round fitness to keep going that long with that much rope out, especially if you take your time and the sun comes out. Completely exhausted at the top. Such a stunning route though.

with Neil Furniss
Andrew Sloan 10/Jun/12 2nd dog

Desperate and sustained all the way up. I led up to stance under 1st overhang (thought it was harder than 4c). A full grade harder than all the others E2s I've done over the past 2 weeks.Felt like E3 6a.

Martin Haworth 10/Jun/12 Lead dog
with Andy
stuaart 06/May/12 2nd

Neil led as two pitches. This felt like top level E2. If led as one pitch it would be extremely hard indeed.

with Neil Redgrave
Howard Lawledge ?/May/12 2nd
with Malc
Hidden 14/Apr/12 2nd rpt
Keendan 14/Apr/12 Lead O/S

Did 1st pitch of Debauchery then realised Darius was a much cooler line, so finished up this. Awesome route and reasonably safe. Quite a long effort to lead a 50m routes after so much 8m grit.

JBO 24/Mar/12 Lead O/S

Amazing route, perfect rock and gear. Thin traverse at the top was a little scary though, especially as that bolt looked ancient and I'd run out draws so I would've taken quite a swing. Did it in one pitch which I thought made a hard E2.

Graham C 22/Mar/12 2nd O/S
with Marti
Marti999 22/Mar/12 Lead O/S
Hannes B 22/Mar/12 Lead O/S

Finally, cheers Sam. In one on 2 singles

with Sam H
Hidden 10/Mar/12 Lead O/S
Tony Kartawick ??/2012 -
Dan Arkle ??/2012 Lead
Tony Kartawick ??/2012 -
Bob ??/2012 -
neilh ??/2012 -
Hidden ??/2012 -
Tony Kartawick ??/2012 -
Hidden 19/Nov/11 Lead O/S
Hidden 22/Oct/11 2nd rpt
robin_hackney 22/Oct/11 Lead dnf

Man, what a route. Got stopped in my tracks a bit above the stance. Need to be firing on all cylinders to lead this clean! Mega route - I'll be back...

with Si
jayrenegade 16/Oct/11 2nd dog

Very hard for me, good work to henry for making it to the top with no falls. I climbed up to the shelf to belay, and even then our ropes didn't make it to the tree. Borrowed a rope from the two other guys we shared the face with. Excellent day all round.

with Henry
henry peter jenkins 16/Oct/11 AltLd

jamie lead to first ledge and i went to the top and got disco leg at the very top and thought i was off but managed to pull through. pumpy!

with jamie standbridge
markalmack 02/Oct/11 Lead O/S

if done in 1 pitch i would have said E3. the top was hard especially with the fill weight of the ropes and lack of quickdraws. More medium nuts may have also helped!

Hidden 02/Oct/11 2nd rpt
tatz45 01/Oct/11 Lead O/S

In one pitch, truly brilliant climb, the best I've ever done?! Went left too low beneath the bolt, felt really hard climbing above a proper run out. Would get E3 in pembroke!

with Lisa Morgan
Hidden 03/Sep/11 2nd
richardr 03/Sep/11 Lead O/S

As a single pitch. Ended up doing something strange off a mono and little crimp at the top, to the left of the bolt. Felt about 6a.

Speeddemonsi 28/Aug/11 Lead O/S
Hidden 20/Aug/11 Lead O/S
Hidden 19/Aug/11 2nd
Hidden 19/Aug/11 Lead
gforce 16/Aug/11 Lead O/S
with Emma
robinsi197 01/Aug/11 2nd dog

Tried this in the 80s, got nowhere. This time I fell off the crux, so some improvement, I guess...

with Nick
Brannock 29/Jul/11 2nd β
bigdrew 12/Jul/11 Lead O/S

Split the pitch at the threads, (On the easy ground which Debauchery passes over about 3M below where the guide suggested) Found the first pitch really pumpy and oddly the second pitch felt ok, As always with high tor, amazing moves in a amazing position.

Daniel Wicks 24/Jun/11 Lead O/S
with Neil
gregoritos 11/Jun/11 Lead O/S

split into two pitches

Dave Turnbull, BMC 04/Jun/11 2nd
with Adam Long
Hidden 02/Jun/11 2nd
Diggler 30/Apr/11 Lead O/S

Done in one pitch. Never desperate but quite tricky in places.

with Calder
Calder 30/Apr/11 2nd
with Mark
Ally Smith 24/Apr/11 2nd O/S

With the direct finish

with Si Clark, Gareth
Jordan B 28/Mar/11 Lead O/S
with Joel Pixley
Ally Smith 27/Mar/11 Lead O/S
robin_hackney 06/Mar/11 2nd O/S

Another minor epic with Si. Needed to deliver extra gear twice (take more QD's than you expect). You need to make the most of the available rests or the top moves will shut you down!

with Si
Hidden 06/Mar/11 Lead O/S
thebigfriendlymoose ??/2011 -
Ben C ??/2011 -
kingholmesy ??/2011 -

Pumpy in the middle section.

with Andy S & Dominic O
Jack Geldard ??/2011 -
GeoffG ??/2011 -
phil64 ??/2011 -
Marcus ??/2011 -
thebigfriendlymoose ??/2011 -
Dave Parton ??/2011 -
Hidden ??/2011 Lead
adie84 ??/2011 -
hamish2016 15/Oct/10 Lead O/S
with John Brannock
Brannock 15/Oct/10 2nd dog

With Hammish D, had 50m ropes so a bit of simul climbing, then it started ranning.

Luke Brooks 14/Oct/10 2nd
with Liam, Barni
barni 14/Oct/10 2nd O/S
thomasadixon 22/Sep/10 Lead O/S

Very good route though a bit overhyped. Felt bold with only(!) 14 runners.

with Mike
Chad123 05/Sep/10 AltLd O/S

Great route but felt much more like E3 5c to me, especially when done as one long pitch on 50m ropes! (Doh) Em had to start climbing while I finished up the steep groove with terrible rope drag. Took about 90 minutes to lead it, had to be very creative with gear but enjoyed the experience.....lots of cruxes, toughest ones at the top....

with Emily
CharlieMack 04/Sep/10 2nd dog

Had to second in the total dark, feeling my way up. Pretty happy i only came off at the crux and another place near the top

rikbattye 04/Sep/10 Lead O/S
nai 17/Aug/10 Lead O/S
Hidden 07/Aug/10 Lead O/S
Si dH 07/Aug/10 Lead dnf

Didnt have ths strength left to make the last couple of pulls to jugs and had to fall off from the big undercuts after the cross-hands move - the rope weighed a tonne. Old bolt did its job. Bit gutted, but pleased with attempt and what a route - amazing. Possibly the best pitch of climbing Ive ever been on.

with Neil Furniss
Hidden 10/Jul/10 AltLd O/S
alaan 03/Jul/10 Lead rpt
drcorbasisgod 03/Jul/10 Lead O/S
pabbage 28/Jun/10 2nd
Misha 19/Jun/10 Lead O/S

Fantastic, the best single pitch route I've done to date. Have been wanting to do this for over a year. Did it in one withering pitch, lots of rests though which I took full advantage of, so it took me an hour and 50 minutes to climb it! Tom took an hour to second, which made me feel a bit less of a slow coach. :-) Used about 20 runners, which is a new record for a single pitch. Should go back and do the direct finish.

with Tom
bigie bob 21/Apr/10 Lead O/S
mwatson ??/2010 Lead O/S
nickcanute ??/2010 Lead
lukehunt ??/2010 Lead rpt

Nice to come back and lead this one, great route

with Sam Dewhurst
Seymore Butt ??/2010 -
Matt Fry 17/Oct/09 AltLd O/S

Split into 3 pitches. I lead the 1st and 3rd, downclimbing from the second stance to include the harder climbing otherwise missed. Great route!

thrutch 17/Oct/09 AltLd

Split into 3 pitches, mainly cos I was so done in. Had to rest on gear twice. Matt lead through and climbed second pitch (top) very smoothly.

with Matt
morganator 22/Sep/09 Lead O/S
Hidden 13/Sep/09 Lead O/S
dan gibson 13/Sep/09 2nd O/S
with andrew porter, michael porter
Hidden 09/Sep/09 Lead O/S
Hidden 31/Aug/09 Lead O/S
Hidden 31/Aug/09 2nd dog
melonmike 29/Aug/09 2nd
david morse 28/Aug/09 Lead β

Nails hard!

with mikey R
UKC Logbooks 16/Aug/09 2nd
with Harry Hotshot
middlevern 11/Jul/09 Lead rpt
with Mike Blood
Tom Briggs - Jagged Globe 23/May/09 2nd
with Tuffty Nick
tuftynick 23/May/09 Lead rpt
metal arms 12/Apr/09 Lead dog
Hidden 12/Oct/08 Lead O/S
Tim Steward 15/Sep/08 Lead O/S
with James Parrot
andi turner 30/Aug/08 Lead O/S
with Mark Sharratt
Hidden 28/Aug/08 Lead
Hidden 23/Jul/08 Lead dog
Ian Parnell 14/Jul/08 Lead O/S
with Jon Winter
datoon 29/Jun/08 Lead O/S
with MJ
philhilo ?/Jun/08 Lead O/S
bfreeman 31/May/08 Lead O/S
with Rob G
Ian Broome 31/May/08 Lead dog

Few rests, struggled on this after 2nd ing supersonic, have to return when fresh!

with Al
alaan 31/May/08 2nd O/S
with Broom
Somerset swede basher 19/May/08 Lead O/S
with Andy Nicholson
Hidden 18/May/08 Lead O/S
OffshoreAndy 15/May/08 2nd
with UKC Nicos
Nicos 15/May/08 Lead O/S
with andrew sutton
mattyork2 05/May/08 Lead O/S
with Steve Aherne
Pete Graham 02/May/08 Lead O/S
with Tom Everett
tom.e 02/May/08 2nd dog

really hard

with Pete
IanJackson 03/Apr/08 Lead O/S

Went right at the bolt. Not much harder at all it seems.

with Luke Hunt
tuftynick ??/2008 -
lukehunt ??/2008 2nd O/S

Best route on the best bit of rock in the country. Will be back to lead this one very soon!

with Ian Jackson
Hidden ??/2008 -
Hidden ??/2008 -
Hidden 06/Oct/07 Lead O/S
Russell Birkett ?/Oct/07 Lead O/S
with Tim Whitaker
ukb & bmc shark 28/Jul/07 Lead
with John Codling
Brown 10/Jul/07 2nd β
with Tom Walker
ksjs 07/Jul/07 Lead dnf

that thing goes on! ran out of draws, had to take shoes off mid-route, sun just got too much not to mention the routes sustained nature. backed off about 2/3 height. brilliant climbing which demands a return match.

with sarah
Alex Mason 05/Jun/07 Lead O/S

Really good poss E3 though.

v.jester ?/Jun/07 Lead dog
with alex
Hidden 20/May/07 Lead
tom.e 25/Apr/07 Lead dnf
with Danny
nathanmanc 22/Apr/07 Lead O/S
with Alex Cannon
feilx 07/Apr/07 Lead O/S
dannyboy83 ?/Apr/07 2nd
Hidden ?/Feb/07 Lead O/S
willackers ??/2007 Lead O/S


with Tom Mills
soph ??/2007 Lead O/S
with Andy Hutch
Just Another Dave ??/2007 2nd dog

Had to cheat somewhere near the old bolt. Bah.

JulesV ??/2007 Lead O/S
Hidden ??/2007 -
Toby Dunn ??/2007 -
thebigfriendlymoose 14/Oct/06 Lead O/S

Unseconded, very hairy two-stage abseil to retrieve gear!

cem 10/Sep/06 Lead rpt

Clean this time round

Ram MkiV 24/Aug/06 Lead

Made it as far as the Debauchery stance level last year before running out of daylight and gear. Fine this time but a Long Mission.

with Alex
Hidden ??/2006 -
Boy ??/2006 -
Tom Briggs - Jagged Globe ??/2005 -
Adam Lincoln ??/2005 Lead
Ben1983 ?/Jul/04 Lead O/S
climbtim 06/Jun/04 2nd

Epic, had to prussic crux

haydng ??/2004 Lead O/S
with Rob, Rachel
chrishedgehog ??/2004 Lead O/S
with Clare Wilkie
Dave Bond 17/Sep/03 Lead
with Rich Hatton
cem 07/Jun/03 Lead dog

Strayed onto & fell off the 6a variation finish

Rob Kinsey ??/2003 -

2 hour single pitch epic!!

with joe lenham, JamesR
nickdonohue ??/2002 Lead

Did it clean this time - phew - but bloody hard!

with Joe Brown
skygodley 12/May/01 Lead O/S
with SarahM
Hidden 12/May/01 Lead
ellis ??/2001 Lead O/S
Julian Wedd ??/2001 Lead
with D. Body
tuftynick ??/2001 Lead
Hidden ??/2001 Lead O/S
DubyaJamesDubya 22/Jul/00 Lead O/S

Hard finishing moves. One of the best routes I've done. First E2 lead after a long break.

with Harry...?
Hidden 26/Jun/00 Lead O/S
Hidden 15/Jun/00 2nd
nige ?/Jun/00 2nd
with dave parton
steepstuff ??/2000 -
Tim M ??/2000 -
Hidden ??/2000 Lead O/S
philb ??/2000 2nd
kristian ??/2000 Lead O/S

In one long pitch.

with Donald King
Andy Edgar ??/2000 Lead

fell from the last move as going direct past the bolt.

with Mick Hardwick
Steve Bell ??/2000 -
WB ?/Jul/99 Lead O/S
with Julian
Rob Kennard ??/1999 -
Hidden ??/1999 Lead
tmawer ??/1999 Lead O/S
nickdonohue 08/Aug/98 AltLd dog

I led top pitch; fell on crux but then reclimbed differently

with Caley Latham
Hidden 18/Jul/98 2nd
sadams 22/Mar/98 2nd
with Pete Bukowski
Hidden ??/1998 Lead
Hidden ??/1998 Lead
Hidden 19/Oct/97 Lead O/S
Hidden 11/Jul/97 2nd
Dave Rumney 06/Jul/97 -
with Sean Roberts
CrashMat Rob 20/Apr/97 2nd

Simon lead this, took a big fall, and took him 3 hours,

with Simon, Karen
Hidden ??/1997 Lead β
phardman ??/1997 -
andyblain ?/Jul/96 Lead O/S

finished direct (E3 6a)

Hidden 27/Jun/96 Lead
ste_d 15/Jun/96 AltLd O/S
with mik
nokishatov 15/Jun/96 Lead O/S
crossleysm ?/Apr/96 Lead
ded ??/1996 Lead O/S
NeilGriffiths ??/1996 Lead O/S
with Phil
Dave Musgrove Jnr 07/Aug/95 Lead
with Nick Ashton
Hidden 04/Jul/95 Lead
tapley ?/Jul/95 2nd
keefe ??/1995 -
SteveB_NWUK_99 ??/1995 2nd

Seconded in the 1990s.

steve taylor ??/1995 -
Glenn Sutcliffe ??/1995 -
with keefe
D Tempest 04/Sep/94 2nd
with Rick
NickJH ?/Aug/94 -
michael burrows 26/Jun/94 Lead O/S
with lola gunn
Hidden ?/Apr/94 Lead O/S
OMSKB ??/1994 AltLd
with Richard Winfield
marcoleptic ??/1994 2nd
with Lee
Hidden 15/May/93 2nd dog
rob.grafton 09/May/93 Lead
with Bruce
Hidden 03/May/93 AltLd O/S
Hidden 14/Apr/93 Lead
Hidden ??/1993 2nd
AlexRenshaw 01/Nov/92 Lead
with Ted Lister
Roget 13/Sep/92 Lead O/S
with jon
andrew300169 27/Aug/92 Lead O/S

Awesome route, long, involved, scary, just get on it

with Tim
tlr 28/Jul/92 AltLd
with Cal
Rob Davies ?/Jul/92 Lead dnf

Date? P1 only - feeling ill due to almighty hangover, much to Chris's disgust

Hidden 17/May/92 2nd
whispering nic 21/Jul/91 Lead
with Graham Iles
Greg Cunningham 01/Jun/90 -
Hidden 24/Apr/90 2nd
Hidden 24/Apr/90 Lead dog
NickJH ?/Apr/90 Lead dnf
with J Airey, I Smith, D Townsend
Hidden ??/1990 -
Pete Ogden ??/1990 Lead
scree ?/May/89 -
Neil R 28/Apr/89 2nd
with Ian
Hidden ??/1989 -
Rich Kirby ??/1989 Lead
Eduardo Martinez ?/Aug/88 Lead O/S
Stoney Boy 19/Jun/88 Lead O/S
with Gareth James
Hidden 05/Jun/88 Lead
Hidden 22/May/88 Lead
Johnny Baker ??/1988 -
with Dave Webster
Hidden ??/1988 Lead O/S
Hidden 10/Jun/87 AltLd O/S
Hidden 26/May/87 2nd
Hidden 23/May/87 Lead
eroica64 12/Apr/87 2nd

I led the 4c pitch.

with Ray Hancock
Paula Hamilton-Gibson ??/1987 Lead
with Stella Adams
William Robertson ??/1987 Lead O/S
with Emily, Steve, Shaun etc
rogerskews ??/1987 -

Steve cruised it, I did not !!

with Steve Walker
Hidden 15/Aug/86 Lead O/S
keefe 26/Jun/86 -
with Johnny Adams
Hidden 18/May/86 AltLd
Hidden ??/1986 Lead
Billg ??/1986 Lead O/S
Derek Furze ??/1986 -
Rob Seymour 20/Aug/85 Lead O/S
with Jim Seymour
Chris Wright 04/Jul/85 Lead O/S
ukb & bmc shark 24/Jun/85 Lead

According to Dave: ...You took a 40 foot lob trying the direct finish. You then led normal finish. I then took a ground fall / jump off Bastille when the peg snapped. Someone then committed suicide off top of crag.....

with Dave Marsh
sadams 08/Jun/85 2nd
with Kevin Edwards
Bruce Kerr 09/Apr/85 Lead
with Dave Bartle
Robmwatt ??/1985 Lead
with Gaz Morgan
andy gittins ??/1985 -
ukb & bmc shark 10/Sep/84 Lead O/S
with Phill Dickens
Hidden 02/Sep/84 Lead
GordonHart ?/Sep/84 2nd O/S
Hidden 26/Aug/84 Lead dnf
AlexRenshaw 01/Jun/84 Lead
Hidden ?/May/84 Lead β
Andy Nicholson ??/1984 Lead rpt
with JR
jonathan shepherd ?/Aug/83 Lead O/S
Hidden ?/Apr/83 Lead O/S
Gezzer ??/1983 Lead O/S

Done this climb several times (at least 3 or 4) find it quite easy, it must suit my climbing style and build.

with Derek Shaw
Ian Jones ??/1983 Lead O/S
with John Meyers, John Kirk, Mick Ward, Mick Bailey, Rich Lewis
TonyF ??/1983 Lead
with Paul Harrison, Tony Cox
Mike Owen 07/Oct/82 Lead O/S
with Al Stewart
Andy Stephenson 08/Jul/82 Lead rpt

Had seconded the pitch in July 1980

jon 30/Jun/82 -
with Ian
andybirtwistle 26/Jun/82 2nd
with Ian Kyle
Nigel Bond 06/Jun/82 AltLd
with Charlie Leverton
charlesmfrench 08/May/82 Lead O/S
with Ian Milne
Nic Robinson 18/Apr/82 Lead O/S
with Irish George
mark-abz 27/Mar/82 Lead O/S
with Andy W
mitch1960 ??/1982 Lead
with Dave Fernig, Howard tingle
KRB 24/Sep/81 Lead O/S
with Neil Gregory
Hidden 05/Sep/81 AltLd
Mark Kemball 10/May/81 Lead
with Paul Clark
Ghastly Rubberfeet ??/1981 Lead
with Derek Hersey
Chris Terrey ??/1981 2nd
with Mike Morrison
Hidden ?/May/80 Lead
Marcus ??/1980 -
Chris Craggs ??/1980 Lead
with Jim Rubery
Marcus ??/1980 -
paul__in_sheffield ??/1980 Lead
Marcus ??/1980 -
Paul Clarke ??/1980 AltLd
with FMC
Marcus ??/1980 -
Dave Musgrove 17/Oct/76 AltLd

Climbed free but it was graded A3 in the latest guide we had at the time! A memorable experience.

with Jim Worthington
Hidden ?/Sep/76 Lead dog
Hidden ?/Jan/76 2nd dog
Hidden ??/1976 -
Falko 09/Jun/75 Lead O/S
with Bill Briggs
petemeads ??/1975 Lead O/S

Well, at the time I lead this (an early ascent) there was still one bolt for resting/aid high up and I used it - but seconded it free several years later. A magnificent pitch either way.

Hidden ??/1973 -
uphillnow ??/1970 Lead

First time seconded the crux pitch which partner failed to lead clean. Second time lead all pitches. Climbed many times over the years

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High E3
Mid E3
Low E3
High E2
Mid E2
Low E2
High E1
Mid E1
Low E1
Votes cast 117
High 6a
Mid 6a
Low 6a
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
Votes cast 110
Votes cast 100
Style of ascent
Alt Leads
Not Set
Flashed (β)
Ground Up
Not Set