Restricted Access
There are frequently problems with car crime in the Stanage area. DO NOT LEAVE ANY VALUABLES ON DISPLAY IN CARS OR MINIBUSES.
Camper vans are becoming an issue with local residents and farmers as their concerns over human waste (and contamination of water supplies) increase with the number of vans overnighting in the various parking areas and laybys there. Please respect this incredible area and the people living wihin it by not overnighting in campervans at Stanage - a number of formal campsites are available locally including North Lees campsite.
Access restrictions under CRoW sometimes apply to areas north of the causeway, these vary each year - see signing at access points, or check the PDNP website for closure dates.
2023 published closure dates are: - August 29th - 31st; September 1st, 4th-8th, 11th - 15th, 18th - 22nd and 25th - 29th; October 2nd - 5th
These closures do not affect any public rights of way or concessionary paths which remain open.
Seasonal Restrictions
Dates: 1 May to 30 July
Reason: Nesting Birds
Ring ouzels are nesting on Stanage, Burbage and Bamford this year. The nest sites change quickly and frequently as ring ouzels often have several broods each year with different nest sites for each brood. On site signage will be up around any of the nest sites where climbing may impact on the birds and this is always up to date and accurate.
Stanage from High Neb westwards (and Bamford Edge, Moscar, Derwent & Hallam Moors) has a permenant dog restriction and in addition can be for land management reasons, as allowed under the CRoW Act (which allows the landowner to restrict access for up to 28 days per year). Full details of any restrictions and the areas affected can be found by searching for 'Stanage' on the Natural England open access maps website and scrolling to the restrictions section at the bottom of the page.
These closures do not affect public rights of way (which remain open) or the concessionary paths to Stanage.
Rockfax Description
One of gritstone's greatest classics; sadly it is showing its age. Start up the polished central crack before shuffling right to the base of the flake. Layback the broken nose to reach easier though sustained climbing and a rest below the final roof. The belly-flop direct finish is best, though a sneaky traverse left is an easier option. A high stepping direct start is a polished f6A. © Rockfax
FA. Joe Brown 1949.
Ticklists
ROCKFAX Eastern Grit: Top 50 , Hard Rock , Top 20 Gritstone UKC Wishlist Climbs , Top 25 UKC Wishlist Rock Climbs , ROCKFAX Eastern Grit (2006): Top 500 , Stanage Routes BMC Graded List , Steve Ashton's 100 Classic Gritstone Climbs , Classic Rock Climbs In Northern England by Bill Birket , Eastern Grit Jamming , Stanage *** HVS's , The Peak: Past and Present , Kit Perry's 2013 Mission Statement , Stanage 3 Star HVS's - Eastern Grit , World Graded List , Peak Gritstone S-HVS **+ , Peak Rock/6/ The Emergence of Joe Brown and Don Whillans , Get out on Rock , Ultimate HVS ticklist , Joe Brown's Three-Star Grit-List , The BMC 70th Anniversary Ticklist , Stanage for Crack Apprentices , AMC Uni Ticklist , 50 of the Best , MUMC Ticklist , Radical Rockcats 2nd Year of Uni Ticklist , Joe Browns Shops 50th Anniversary Celebration Routes List , The best the UK has to offer for mere mortals (apart from the lakes cos its always wet) , Brown & Whillans Stanage , Rockfax Eastern Grit (2015) Top 50 , 3 Star Stanage , Definitive *** Peak Grit , The Ultimate SUMC Ticklist , One Day Challenges: HVS-E4 , Eastern Grit 2 star plus (HVS/VS/HS) , Rockfax Peak Gritstone East (2001) Top 50 , Stanage Plantation , On Peak Rock , Rocksport Top Ten Grit Routes , Definitive Eastern Grit top 50- 2001, 2006 and 2015 editions , Libby Peter's HVS Hit List , The Gritlist , Severe Stanage , Hard Rock 2020 , Hard Rock 2020 , Post-Covid19 Eastern Grit Targets. , 2020/21 Trips , Stanage HVS Challenge , An attempt at a definitive list of Joe Brown's FA/FFA in the Peak District , Jem's Time in the Peaks , Stanage HVS Challenge - All the 3* , Hard Rock & Other Classics , Wired Peak District Grit Graded List , Wired Peak District Grit (2020) *** List , Big trad grit list , Every 3 Starred HVS and Under Gritstone , Ultimate List of Peak District Crack Climbs , LD's next grit trip(s) , I’ve climbed a thousand VDiffs but I wanna be a HVS climber , Eastern Grit 2015 - Top 500 HVS , 2023 , 100 Best Routes on Grit , The Wishlist Challenge , Climber's Club Jamfest List Meet , Peaky , Seb's Recommendations , Loz’ Peaks Wishlist , 2022 Rockfax Eastern Grit Graded List , 3* HVS at Bamford, Stanage, Burbage, Millstone, Froggatt, and Curbar , Essential grit ticks for the aspiring trad leader , Cristmas Trad Plan , 2023 , ROCKFAX TOP 50s upto e3 , MUMC 2023 Fundraiser Routes , Peak grit , *** HVS on Peak Gritstone
Feedback
| User | Date | Notes | ||
|---|---|---|---|---|
| RobHearnden | 23 Aug, 2020 |
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βeta: 10/10 place a cam below the top out and go forth confidently | ||
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βeta: 10/10 place a cam below the top out and go forth confidently |
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| glaramara | 4 Aug, 2019 |
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βeta: Any mistake and you will get pinged off, no doubt. | βeta? | |
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βeta: Any mistake and you will get pinged off, no doubt. |
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| Gordon Stainforth | 15 May, 2019 |
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βeta: Although the bellyflop mantel is classic, there's a neat way of doing it by using a very high foothold - it can hardly be described as 'cheating' because it's so natural. | βeta? | |
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Show beta
βeta: Although the bellyflop mantel is classic, there's a neat way of doing it by using a very high foothold - it can hardly be described as 'cheating' because it's so natural. |
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| rdoug1as | 30 Jul, 2007 |
Show βeta
βeta: Loved it!!! Found it a little pumpy as I was a little out of shape when attempted. Isn't the beauty of the route the fact that it is "samey" all the way up? Physical laybacks and hanging off your fist style jams! Deserves all it's stars! | ||
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Show beta
βeta: Loved it!!! Found it a little pumpy as I was a little out of shape when attempted. Isn't the beauty of the route the fact that it is "samey" all the way up? Physical laybacks and hanging off your fist style jams! Deserves all it's stars! |
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| truckmonkey | 15 Jul, 2006 |
Show βeta
βeta: pumped at the top?? trying to place wires?? hang off the jams for a rest then mantle to glory. sorted | βeta? | |
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Show beta
βeta: pumped at the top?? trying to place wires?? hang off the jams for a rest then mantle to glory. sorted |
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| Pythonist | 6 Oct, 2005 |
Show βeta
βeta: Alun and I immediately had opposite opinions on this one. It deserves every star. Much nicer than left (and a few notches easier). For further practice on big-flake laybacking, see Surform and The Rasp at Higgar, which are almost as good. | βeta? | |
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Show beta
βeta: Alun and I immediately had opposite opinions on this one. It deserves every star. Much nicer than left (and a few notches easier). For further practice on big-flake laybacking, see Surform and The Rasp at Higgar, which are almost as good. |
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| Alun | 26 Sep, 2005 |
Show βeta
βeta: I agree with gr above. While I know the route has a great history, I was ultimately a bit disappointed after finally getting round to doing it. The final mantle is definately the best bit - no cheating by going out left! | βeta? | |
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Show beta
βeta: I agree with gr above. While I know the route has a great history, I was ultimately a bit disappointed after finally getting round to doing it. The final mantle is definately the best bit - no cheating by going out left! |
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| leon | 24 May, 2004 |
Show βeta
βeta: i rekon this climb is pretty sustained, you need to keep on the move, don't try to lace it. the moves are all pretty obvious, the only surprise is getting to the top and realizing that that's the hardest move, & on pumped arms!!! forget the belly flop and commando roll rubbish, make it a no knees mantle for full points. | βeta? | |
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Show beta
βeta: i rekon this climb is pretty sustained, you need to keep on the move, don't try to lace it. the moves are all pretty obvious, the only surprise is getting to the top and realizing that that's the hardest move, & on pumped arms!!! forget the belly flop and commando roll rubbish, make it a no knees mantle for full points. |
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Logged Ascents
Guidebooks for Stanage Plantation
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Green Crack
Grade: HVS 5b ***
(Curbar Edge)