UKC

Restricted Access

There are frequently problems with car crime in the Stanage area. DO NOT LEAVE ANY VALUABLES ON DISPLAY IN CARS OR MINIBUSES.

Camper vans are becoming an issue with local residents and farmers as their concerns over human waste (and contamination of water supplies) increase with the number of vans overnighting in the various parking areas and laybys there. Please respect this incredible area and the people living wihin it by not overnighting in campervans at Stanage - a number of formal campsites are available locally including North Lees campsite

 

Access restrictions under CRoW  sometimes apply to areas north of the causeway, these vary each year - see signing at access points, or check the PDNP website for closure dates.

2023 published closure dates are: - August 29th - 31st; September 1st, 4th-8th, 11th - 15th, 18th - 22nd and 25th - 29th; October 2nd - 5th

 

These closures do not affect any public rights of way or concessionary paths which remain open.

Seasonal Restrictions

Dates: 1 May to 30 July

Reason: Nesting Birds

Ring ouzels are nesting on Stanage, Burbage and Bamford this year. The nest sites change quickly and frequently as ring ouzels often have several broods each year with different nest sites for each brood. On site signage will be up around any of the nest sites where climbing may impact on the birds and this is always up to date and accurate.

Stanage from High Neb westwards (and Bamford Edge, Moscar, Derwent & Hallam Moors) has a permenant dog restriction and in addition can be for land management reasons, as allowed under the CRoW Act (which allows the landowner to restrict access for up to 28 days per year). Full details of any restrictions and the areas affected can be found by searching for 'Stanage' on the Natural England open access maps website and scrolling to the restrictions section at the bottom of the page. 

These closures do not affect public rights of way (which remain open) or the concessionary paths to Stanage.

22m.

Rockfax Description
A classic with a bold - but easy - finish. The frustrating (and chipped) initial slab can be ascended in several places at 5a/b. From the ledge, climb through the bulge just to the right of the arete, to another ledge. Step down (low runners) and traverse across the slab to reach its right arete. Follow the right side of this to the top; mild but bold. © Rockfax

FA. Fred Piggott et al. early 1920s.

Ticklists

ROCKFAX Eastern Grit (2006): Top 500 , Stanage Routes BMC Graded List , Best slab climbs of the UK , Steve Ashton's 100 Classic Gritstone Climbs , Stanage 100 VD - VS , Stanage VS Challenge (1989 Guide) , Peak Gritstone S-HVS **+ , 3 Star Stanage , Definitive *** Peak Grit , Eastern Grit 2 star plus (HVS/VS/HS) , Stanage Plantation , Severe Stanage , The Gritlist , Wired Peak District Grit Graded List , Wired Peak District Grit (2020) *** List , Every 3 Starred HVS and Under Gritstone , Eastern Grit Wishlist , Eastern Grit 2015 - Top 500 VS , 2022 Rockfax Eastern Grit Graded List , Slab Dreams , Stanage Slab , Stanage 1956

Feedback

User Date Notes
Aither 31 Oct, 2022 Show βeta
βeta: Good route wouldn\'t say the start is that bad, but again If it was at the end I\'d probably say it was. Classic VS
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Good route wouldn't say the start is that bad, but again If it was at the end I'd probably say it was. Classic VS
Summit Sense 12 Apr, 2021 Show βeta
βeta: Spring 2021: Ring Ouzel restriction sign in place
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Spring 2021: Ring Ouzel restriction sign in place
Dale Berry 23 Sep, 2006 Show βeta
βeta: A victim of its own poularity with the start, but once passed the rest is good steady stuff, no where harder than 4b. The traverse focuses things nicely, but do you realy need to worry about the gear when the moves are that easy?
Show beta
βeta: A victim of its own poularity with the start, but once passed the rest is good steady stuff, no where harder than 4b. The traverse focuses things nicely, but do you realy need to worry about the gear when the moves are that easy?
Fidget 2 Oct, 2005 Show βeta
βeta: I seconded this and really enjoyed it. Especially the start, most satisfying if you don't use the arete for hands. Wish I'd led it to appreciate the exposure when you start the traverse and the boldness.
Show beta
βeta: I seconded this and really enjoyed it. Especially the start, most satisfying if you don't use the arete for hands. Wish I'd led it to appreciate the exposure when you start the traverse and the boldness.
Si dH 24 Oct, 2004 Show βeta
βeta: Slightly dodgy friend 2 2/3rds of the way along the traverse. Brilliant route though, just trust those feet!
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Slightly dodgy friend 2 2/3rds of the way along the traverse. Brilliant route though, just trust those feet!

Logged Ascents

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Guidebooks for Stanage Plantation

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Voting
High HVS
Mid HVS
Low HVS
High VS
Mid VS
Low VS
High HS
Mid HS
Low HS
Votes cast 222
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
High 5a
Mid 5a
Low 5a
High 4c
Mid 4c
Low 4c
Votes cast 210
Votes cast 211
Style of Ascent
Lead
Followed
Soloed
Alt Leads
Toproped
Bouldered
Not Set
Onsighted
Repeated
Flashed (β)
Redpoint
Dogged
DNF
Ground Up
Not Set
Route of Interest
Birch Tree Wall Direct

Grade: VS 5a ***
(Black Rocks)

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