Rockfax Description
A classic with a bold - but easy - finish. The frustrating (and chipped) initial slab can be ascended in several places at 5a/b. From the ledge, climb through the bulge just to the right of the arete, to another ledge. Step down (low runners) and traverse across the slab to reach its right arete. Follow the right side of this to the top; mild but bold. © Rockfax
FA. Fred Piggott et al. early 1920s.
Ticklists
ROCKFAX Eastern Grit (2006): Top 500 , Stanage Routes BMC Graded List , Best slab climbs of the UK , Steve Ashton's 100 Classic Gritstone Climbs , Stanage 100 VD - VS , Stanage VS Challenge (1989 Guide) , Peak Gritstone S-HVS **+ , 3 Star Stanage , Definitive *** Peak Grit , Eastern Grit 2 star plus (HVS/VS/HS) , Stanage Plantation , Severe Stanage , The Gritlist , Wired Peak District Grit Graded List , Wired Peak District Grit (2020) *** List , Every Starred HVS and Under Gritstone , Eastern Grit Wishlist , Eastern Grit 2015 - Top 500 VS , 2022 Rockfax Eastern Grit Graded List , Slab Dreams , Stanage Slab
Feedback
| User | Date | Notes | ||
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Aither | 31 Oct, 2022 |
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βeta: Good route wouldn\'t say the start is that bad, but again If it was at the end I\'d probably say it was. Classic VS | βeta? | |
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βeta: Good route wouldn't say the start is that bad, but again If it was at the end I'd probably say it was. Classic VS |
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| Bristol_Quornstar | 12 Apr, 2021 |
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βeta: Spring 2021: Ring Ouzel restriction sign in place | βeta? | |
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Show beta
βeta: Spring 2021: Ring Ouzel restriction sign in place |
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| Dale Berry | 23 Sep, 2006 |
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βeta: A victim of its own poularity with the start, but once passed the rest is good steady stuff, no where harder than 4b. The traverse focuses things nicely, but do you realy need to worry about the gear when the moves are that easy? | ||
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Show beta
βeta: A victim of its own poularity with the start, but once passed the rest is good steady stuff, no where harder than 4b. The traverse focuses things nicely, but do you realy need to worry about the gear when the moves are that easy? |
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| Fidget | 2 Oct, 2005 |
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βeta: I seconded this and really enjoyed it. Especially the start, most satisfying if you don't use the arete for hands. Wish I'd led it to appreciate the exposure when you start the traverse and the boldness. | ||
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Show beta
βeta: I seconded this and really enjoyed it. Especially the start, most satisfying if you don't use the arete for hands. Wish I'd led it to appreciate the exposure when you start the traverse and the boldness. |
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| Si dH | 24 Oct, 2004 |
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βeta: Slightly dodgy friend 2 2/3rds of the way along the traverse. Brilliant route though, just trust those feet! | βeta? | |
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Show beta
βeta: Slightly dodgy friend 2 2/3rds of the way along the traverse. Brilliant route though, just trust those feet! |
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Logged Ascents
Guidebooks for Stanage Plantation
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Nozag
Grade: VS 4c ***
(Castle Naze)