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10m.

Rockfax Description
From the boulder below the overhang, swing your feet into the break (honest) then shuffle round to the front face. A couple of moves of proper climbing are needed to reach the top. © Rockfax

FA. Joe Brown, Nat Allen, Wilf White 1953.

Ticklists

ROCKFAX Eastern Grit (2006): Top 500, Stanage Routes BMC Graded List, Stanage *** HVS's, 29 Routes, 87 Stars, 1 E Point each, Stanage 3 Star HVS's - Eastern Grit, Peak Gritstone S-HVS **+, Unusual and Interesting Routes You Must Do VS- E2, Joe Brown's Three-Star Grit-List, Stanage for Crack Apprentices, 'Soft' Peak HVSs., ULMC Classics, Radical Rockcats 2nd Year of Uni Ticklist, Ultimate HVS ticklist, In Peak Rock, Joe Browns Shops 50th Anniversary Celebration Routes List, The best the UK has to offer for mere mortals (apart from the lakes cos its always wet), Brown & Whillans Stanage, The V.S.+ Ticklist, 3 Star Stanage, Definitive *** Peak Grit, Hobo Unicorn Essentials, Eastern Grit 2 star plus (HVS/VS/HS), Stanage Popular, Stanage 'The Popular End, Orange Spot Heaven'. 12 routes, 36 stars!, The Gritlist, Big Boy Pants, Stanage HVS Challenge, An attempt at a definitive list of Joe Brown's FA/FFA in the Peak District, Stanage HVS Challenge - All the 3*, Peak District Grit Graded List, Peak District Grit (2020) *** List, Eastern Grit Trip: The Best Of The Proposed Crags., Ryan's Stanage Popular Left?, So you think you’re a VS climber?

Feedback

User Date Notes
Rod_Vortex 13 Aug Show βeta
βeta: Be careful putting cams in the flake after the slot. Our rope ended up running through and pushing it well deep into the crack. Managed to retrieve on ab with a lot of graft. A nut would be less likely to be lost to the crag!
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Be careful putting cams in the flake after the slot. Our rope ended up running through and pushing it well deep into the crack. Managed to retrieve on ab with a lot of graft. A nut would be less likely to be lost to the crag!
Pythonist 2 Sep, 2006 Show βeta
βeta: Totally agree with everyone... Just good silly fun. No idea how you'd grade it, but leaving it at this grade means that no one will jump on it before they're at a level at which they will enjoy it.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Totally agree with everyone... Just good silly fun. No idea how you'd grade it, but leaving it at this grade means that no one will jump on it before they're at a level at which they will enjoy it.
Skyfall 6 Dec, 2004 Show βeta
βeta: Great fun and well protected. Strangely it all makes sense once you are inserted into the slot. The finishing move up the wall above is quite interesting too, so at least you feel like you've done some "proper" climbing and earnt the HVS tick.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Great fun and well protected. Strangely it all makes sense once you are inserted into the slot. The finishing move up the wall above is quite interesting too, so at least you feel like you've done some "proper" climbing and earnt the HVS tick.
Munir Hassan 15 Jun, 2004 Show βeta
βeta: Although there's no way you can prepare for the scuttle into the slot at the climbing wall.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Although there's no way you can prepare for the scuttle into the slot at the climbing wall.
Munir Hassan 15 Jun, 2004 Show βeta
βeta: Plain silly.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Plain silly.
Nick Smith - Climbers 1 Jun, 2002 Show βeta
βeta: Great fun! I wish I had a photo...
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Great fun! I wish I had a photo...

Logged Ascents

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Voting
High E1
Mid E1
Low E1
High HVS
Mid HVS
Low HVS
High VS
Mid VS
Low VS
Votes cast 123
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
High 5a
Mid 5a
Low 5a
High 4c
Mid 4c
Low 4c
Votes cast 119
Votes cast 121
Style of Ascent
Lead
Followed
Soloed
Alt Leads
Toproped
Not Set
Onsighted
Repeated
Flashed (β)
DNF
Dogged
Redpoint
Ground Up
Not Set
Route of Interest

Scoop Face

Grade: HVS 5a ***
(Castle Naze)