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18m.

Rockfax Description
Nice and steady at the grade. Start at ledges below the centre of the face, trend left then right through bulges. Stay left of Balcony Buttress's wide crack then, from the heather ledge, pull strenuously through the centre of the roof to finish at the notch. © Rockfax

FA. Chris Craggs 1993.

Ticklists

ROCKFAX Eastern Grit (2006): Top 500, Stanage Routes BMC Graded List, Peak Gritstone S-HVS **+, 'Soft' Peak HVSs., Ultimate HVS ticklist, Eastern Grit 2 star plus (HVS/VS/HS), Stanage Popular, Ryan's Stanage Popular Left?

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User Date Notes
Richard 261 13 Jun, 2007 Show βeta
βeta: Exellent route, Well worth doing. The protection is a bit sparse at the bottom where it's V easy anyway, but superb protection leading up to and at the crux. Nice pull over the roof on good holds. Loved it.
 
Show beta
βeta: Exellent route, Well worth doing. The protection is a bit sparse at the bottom where it's V easy anyway, but superb protection leading up to and at the crux. Nice pull over the roof on good holds. Loved it.
John Parkin 11 Aug, 2006 Show βeta
βeta: Have to admit to resorting to the right knee on the ledge to get established at the start! I agree with high 5a, it feels harder because of the awkward position you're in. Exhilerating finish in the wind, quite committing but the holds are there in the back of the final horizontal break, glad the notch at the top was good!!
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Have to admit to resorting to the right knee on the ledge to get established at the start! I agree with high 5a, it feels harder because of the awkward position you're in. Exhilerating finish in the wind, quite committing but the holds are there in the back of the final horizontal break, glad the notch at the top was good!!
Nick Smith - Climbers 15 Aug, 2002 Show βeta
βeta: An excellent route, but the line in the guide seems a bit too left at the start. You can start the route under the overhang on the left, but it looks like holds have snapped off and it is more like 5b/c! Start further right at a more reasonable 5a.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: An excellent route, but the line in the guide seems a bit too left at the start. You can start the route under the overhang on the left, but it looks like holds have snapped off and it is more like 5b/c! Start further right at a more reasonable 5a.

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High E1
Mid E1
Low E1
High HVS
Mid HVS
Low HVS
High VS
Mid VS
Low VS
Votes cast 108
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
High 5a
Mid 5a
Low 5a
High 4c
Mid 4c
Low 4c
Votes cast 105
Votes cast 104
Style of Ascent
Lead
Followed
Soloed
Toproped
Alt Leads
Not Set
Onsighted
Repeated
Flashed (β)
Dogged
DNF
Redpoint
Not Set
Route of Interest

Gangue Grooves

Grade: HVS 5b ***
(Willersley Castle Rocks)