Rockfax Description
A great classic. Trend left to a wide crack, climb this to a heathery ledge, then move left to an oddly-awkward flying-flake finish on the airy arete. © Rockfax
FA. Lewis Coxon 1922.
Ticklists
Connoisseur's Classic Rock, ROCKFAX Eastern Grit (2006): Top 500, Stanage Routes BMC Graded List, Steve Ashton's 100 Classic Gritstone Climbs, 100 Stanage stars, 29 Routes, 87 Stars, 1 E Point each, Stanage 100 VD - VS, Peak Gritstone S-HVS **+, Northern (Yorkshire !?) Climbs for a Southerner, Peak Rock/3/ A Decade of Expansion, 50 of the Best, 50 Stars in 20 Routes at Stanage Popular, Peak district Road To Ruins Diff-VS, Stanage Popular Greens, 3 Star Stanage, Definitive *** Peak Grit, The Ultimate SUMC Ticklist, Rockfax Peak Gritstone East (2001) Top 50, Definitive Eastern Grit top 50- 2001, 2006 and 2015 editions, Beginner Peak Severe, ROCKFAX Eastern Grit TOP 500: S and VS, Stanage Solo, Stanage Severe Challenge, Peak District Grit Graded List, Peak District Grit (2020) *** List, Level 1 Peak Trad Routes, Stanage green spot starters, To do
Feedback
| User | Date | Notes | |
|---|---|---|---|
| scottywakefield | 16 Oct, 2020 |
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βeta: A route with varied climbing. | βeta? |
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βeta: A route with varied climbing. |
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| Pythonist | 4 Mar, 2007 |
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βeta: A beautiful S solo, with an adrenalising finale. Might just be 4b, but don't care either way, just do it! | βeta? |
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βeta: A beautiful S solo, with an adrenalising finale. Might just be 4b, but don't care either way, just do it! |
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| Skyfall | 6 Dec, 2004 |
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βeta: Seemed quite hard at Severe overall but I didn't find using the top flake at all hard. Not technical enough for HS (given good pro all the way). Very nice route though, quite meandering and with a traditional (ie. easiest way up the buttress) feel to it. | βeta? |
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βeta: Seemed quite hard at Severe overall but I didn't find using the top flake at all hard. Not technical enough for HS (given good pro all the way). Very nice route though, quite meandering and with a traditional (ie. easiest way up the buttress) feel to it. |
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| Duz Walker | 2 Sep, 2004 |
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βeta: hmm, lovely route. I think the "4bness" of the last move is proportional to the strength of the wind and the size of the capacious ledge you are about to leave. The guidebooks all say finish via flake - do they mean that rounded horizontal dinner plate that I thought very unflakelike? | βeta? |
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βeta: hmm, lovely route. I think the "4bness" of the last move is proportional to the strength of the wind and the size of the capacious ledge you are about to leave. The guidebooks all say finish via flake - do they mean that rounded horizontal dinner plate that I thought very unflakelike? |
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| Jono Graham | 25 Jul, 2004 |
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βeta: The last moves feel about 4a I thought. | βeta? |
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βeta: The last moves feel about 4a I thought. |
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| Nutkey | 12 Jul, 2004 |
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βeta: Don't remember the start being that tricky, but it certainly felt hard for S4a in both respects. | βeta? |
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βeta: Don't remember the start being that tricky, but it certainly felt hard for S4a in both respects. |
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| Simon Caldwell | 14 Jul, 2003 |
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βeta: I still think the final moves are hard and exposed enough (though well protected) to warrant S 4b. | βeta? |
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βeta: I still think the final moves are hard and exposed enough (though well protected) to warrant S 4b. |
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Logged Ascents
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Via Principia
Grade: S 4a ***(Shining Clough)