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20m.

Rockfax Description
A great classic. Trend left to a wide crack, climb this to a heathery ledge, then move left to an oddly-awkward flying-flake finish on the airy arete. © Rockfax

FA. Lewis Coxon 1922.

Ticklists

Connoisseur's Classic Rock, ROCKFAX Eastern Grit (2006): Top 500, Stanage Routes BMC Graded List, Steve Ashton's 100 Classic Gritstone Climbs, 100 Stanage stars, 29 Routes, 87 Stars, 1 E Point each, Stanage 100 VD - VS, Peak Gritstone S-HVS **+, Northern (Yorkshire !?) Climbs for a Southerner, Peak Rock/3/ A Decade of Expansion, 50 of the Best, 50 Stars in 20 Routes at Stanage Popular, Peak district Road To Ruins Diff-VS, Stanage Popular Greens, 3 Star Stanage, Definitive *** Peak Grit, The Ultimate SUMC Ticklist, Rockfax Peak Gritstone East (2001) Top 50, Definitive Eastern Grit top 50- 2001, 2006 and 2015 editions, Beginner Peak Severe, ROCKFAX Eastern Grit TOP 500: S and VS, Stanage Solo, Stanage Severe Challenge, Peak District Grit Graded List, Peak District Grit (2020) *** List, Eastern Grit Trip: The Best Of The Proposed Crags.

Feedback

User Date Notes
Pythonist 4 Mar, 2007 Show βeta
βeta: A beautiful S solo, with an adrenalising finale. Might just be 4b, but don't care either way, just do it!
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: A beautiful S solo, with an adrenalising finale. Might just be 4b, but don't care either way, just do it!
Skyfall 6 Dec, 2004 Show βeta
βeta: Seemed quite hard at Severe overall but I didn't find using the top flake at all hard. Not technical enough for HS (given good pro all the way). Very nice route though, quite meandering and with a traditional (ie. easiest way up the buttress) feel to it.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Seemed quite hard at Severe overall but I didn't find using the top flake at all hard. Not technical enough for HS (given good pro all the way). Very nice route though, quite meandering and with a traditional (ie. easiest way up the buttress) feel to it.
Duz Walker 2 Sep, 2004 Show βeta
βeta: hmm, lovely route. I think the "4bness" of the last move is proportional to the strength of the wind and the size of the capacious ledge you are about to leave. The guidebooks all say finish via flake - do they mean that rounded horizontal dinner plate that I thought very unflakelike?
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: hmm, lovely route. I think the "4bness" of the last move is proportional to the strength of the wind and the size of the capacious ledge you are about to leave. The guidebooks all say finish via flake - do they mean that rounded horizontal dinner plate that I thought very unflakelike?
Jono Graham 25 Jul, 2004 Show βeta
βeta: The last moves feel about 4a I thought.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: The last moves feel about 4a I thought.
Nutkey 12 Jul, 2004 Show βeta
βeta: Don't remember the start being that tricky, but it certainly felt hard for S4a in both respects.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Don't remember the start being that tricky, but it certainly felt hard for S4a in both respects.
Simon Caldwell 14 Jul, 2003 Show βeta
βeta: I still think the final moves are hard and exposed enough (though well protected) to warrant S 4b.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: I still think the final moves are hard and exposed enough (though well protected) to warrant S 4b.

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Voting
High HS
Mid HS
Low HS
High S
Mid S
Low S
High HVD
Mid HVD
Low HVD
Votes cast 275
High 4b
Mid 4b
Low 4b
High 4a
Mid 4a
Low 4a
High 3c
Mid 3c
Low 3c
Votes cast 251
Votes cast 253
Style of Ascent
Lead
Followed
Soloed
Toproped
Alt Leads
Bouldered
Not Set
Onsighted
Repeated
Flashed (β)
DNF
Dogged
Redpoint
Not Set
Route of Interest

Via Principia

Grade: S 4a ***
(Shining Clough)