UKC

Restricted Access

There are frequently problems with car crime in the Stanage area. DO NOT LEAVE ANY VALUABLES ON DISPLAY IN CARS OR MINIBUSES.

Camper vans are becoming an issue with local residents and farmers as their concerns over human waste (and contamination of water supplies) increase with the number of vans overnighting in the various parking areas and laybys there. Please respect this incredible area and the people living wihin it by not overnighting in campervans at Stanage - a number of formal campsites are available locally including North Lees campsite

 

Access restrictions under CRoW  sometimes apply to areas north of the causeway, these vary each year - see signing at access points, or check the PDNP website for closure dates.

2023 published closure dates are: - August 29th - 31st; September 1st, 4th-8th, 11th - 15th, 18th - 22nd and 25th - 29th; October 2nd - 5th

 

These closures do not affect any public rights of way or concessionary paths which remain open.

Seasonal Restrictions

Dates: 1 May to 30 July

Reason: Nesting Birds

Ring ouzels are nesting on Stanage, Burbage and Bamford this year. The nest sites change quickly and frequently as ring ouzels often have several broods each year with different nest sites for each brood. On site signage will be up around any of the nest sites where climbing may impact on the birds and this is always up to date and accurate.

Stanage from High Neb westwards (and Bamford Edge, Moscar, Derwent & Hallam Moors) has a permenant dog restriction and in addition can be for land management reasons, as allowed under the CRoW Act (which allows the landowner to restrict access for up to 28 days per year). Full details of any restrictions and the areas affected can be found by searching for 'Stanage' on the Natural England open access maps website and scrolling to the restrictions section at the bottom of the page. 

These closures do not affect public rights of way (which remain open) or the concessionary paths to Stanage.

16m.

Rockfax Description
Intimidating climbing up the jutting prow. Climb the lower wall to jams below the overhang, up this with difficulty (good small wire up and left) to reach a ramp. Hand traverse rightwards up this to gain the arete and a sprint finale. © Rockfax

FA. Ed Drummond 1975.

Ticklists

Stanage Routes BMC Graded List , Peak Rock/12/The New Golden Age , Big trad grit list , 2022 Rockfax Eastern Grit Graded List

Feedback

User Date Notes
north country boy 14 May, 2005 Show βeta
βeta: Pretty steady for E4, but very pumpy! can get a good rest with leg on ledge before roof and a toe hook/jam! Then pull over lip (forget the Rp in flake!) and just keep cranking!
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Pretty steady for E4, but very pumpy! can get a good rest with leg on ledge before roof and a toe hook/jam! Then pull over lip (forget the Rp in flake!) and just keep cranking!
GDes 3 Apr, 2005 Show βeta
βeta: no way E4. E3, just pumpy but safe. no need for the mystery wire, just leg it
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: no way E4. E3, just pumpy but safe. no need for the mystery wire, just leg it
Andy Reeve 6 Mar, 2005 Show βeta
βeta: Why wouldn't I put the wire in? Because its pumpy enough as it is!
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Why wouldn't I put the wire in? Because its pumpy enough as it is!
Andy Reeve 11 Oct, 2004 Show βeta
βeta: I went sans wire and lobbed - no problem.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: I went sans wire and lobbed - no problem.
JR 21 Oct, 2003 Show βeta
βeta: Not worth placing the wire, just pull up and race for the top. Hard for the grade.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Not worth placing the wire, just pull up and race for the top. Hard for the grade.

Logged Ascents

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Voting
High E5
Mid E5
Low E5
High E4
Mid E4
Low E4
High E3
Mid E3
Low E3
Votes cast 26
High 6b
Mid 6b
Low 6b
High 6a
Mid 6a
Low 6a
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
Votes cast 23
Votes cast 21
Style of Ascent
Lead
Followed
Toproped
Not Set
Onsighted
Ground Up
DNF
Flashed (β)
Dogged
Redpoint
Repeated
Not Set
Route of Interest
Amber Gambler

Grade: E4 6a ***
(High Tor)

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