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12m.

Rockfax Description
The lower section of the smooth wall is climbed via a problem start at f6A+ using a cruel finger-jam (desperate for short climbers). Swing left then gain a standing position in the break with difficulty. The upper section then follows the thin crack and gradually eases. © Rockfax

FA. Bob Brayshaw 1959.

Ticklists

ROCKFAX Eastern Grit (2006): Top 500, Stanage Routes BMC Graded List, Eastern Grit Jamming, 29 Routes, 87 Stars, 1 E Point each, Stanage E1 Challenge (1989 Guide), Ron Fawcetts 100 extremes in a day, Peak Rock/9/Gritstone in the Sixties, Stanage for Crack Apprentices, Tick List for 2015/2016, Top 20 ticked Stanage starred E1s, Stanage Wishlist, Extreme 2018, Peak District Grit Graded List

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User Date Notes
Joe Costello 14 Apr, 2007 Show βeta
βeta: When I say grit I of course mean "eastern grit". ta
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: When I say grit I of course mean "eastern grit". ta
Joe Costello 14 Apr, 2007 Show βeta
βeta: This is the hardest E1 on grit (if it is E1). Much, much harder than kayak, white out, great peter and now or never which are all apparently above it in the graded list.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: This is the hardest E1 on grit (if it is E1). Much, much harder than kayak, white out, great peter and now or never which are all apparently above it in the graded list.
Fiend 26 Feb, 2007 Show βeta
βeta: Nice route, does what it says on the tin. Height is hardly relevant for the start, but it is somewhat stretchy just above the cool crimp move to get into the crack.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Nice route, does what it says on the tin. Height is hardly relevant for the start, but it is somewhat stretchy just above the cool crimp move to get into the crack.
Alex Mason 9 Aug, 2005 Show βeta
βeta: yeah did this today. im 5' 7" and reached the break dead easy strat with right hand on the side pull left on the lower crimp twist so u is laying back the side pull hand foot match at left hand and kapoww! you got the break! i found this quite steady at E1 5c but its my style!
 
Show beta
βeta: yeah did this today. im 5' 7" and reached the break dead easy strat with right hand on the side pull left on the lower crimp twist so u is laying back the side pull hand foot match at left hand and kapoww! you got the break! i found this quite steady at E1 5c but its my style!
JR 6 Jul, 2004 Show βeta
βeta: definitely only E1 5c, dont be soft
βeta?
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βeta: definitely only E1 5c, dont be soft
Ged Desforges 13 Apr, 2004 Show βeta
βeta: i can just about reach the break (i'm just over 6 foot) and its about 5c, but can see it being harder for the short. good route and definitely more like E2 5c/6a
βeta?
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βeta: i can just about reach the break (i'm just over 6 foot) and its about 5c, but can see it being harder for the short. good route and definitely more like E2 5c/6a
Nick Smith - Climbers 2 Jul, 2003 Show βeta
βeta: Finally cracked the start! I did it by laybacking left off the chalked 'V' crack, and a slightly precarious high step up with my right foot... and stretch for the break!
 
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βeta: Finally cracked the start! I did it by laybacking left off the chalked 'V' crack, and a slightly precarious high step up with my right foot... and stretch for the break!
Mark S Davies 27 Mar, 2003 Show βeta
βeta: Wicked!
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Wicked!
laaljohn 9 Sep, 2002 Show βeta
βeta: Fantastic route which doesn't ease much til the top. At 5'5"ish I found the start 6a but you can jump (left) off without hurting yourself, though a pad wouldn't be a bad idea.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Fantastic route which doesn't ease much til the top. At 5'5"ish I found the start 6a but you can jump (left) off without hurting yourself, though a pad wouldn't be a bad idea.
Nick Smith - Climbers 15 Aug, 2002 Show βeta
βeta: I'm 5'10" and find the start impossible! I've done plenty of other 5c routes, but this one has me beaten for now :-(
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: I'm 5'10" and find the start impossible! I've done plenty of other 5c routes, but this one has me beaten for now :-(

Logged Ascents

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Voting
High E2
Mid E2
Low E2
High E1
Mid E1
Low E1
High HVS
Mid HVS
Low HVS
Votes cast 160
High 6b
Mid 6b
Low 6b
High 6a
Mid 6a
Low 6a
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
Votes cast 159
Votes cast 125
Style of Ascent
Lead
Followed
Soloed
Toproped
Alt Leads
Bouldered
Not Set
Onsighted
Dogged
Repeated
DNF
Redpoint
Flashed (β)
Ground Up
Not Set
Route of Interest

George

Grade: E1 5b ***
(Dovedale)