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16m.

Rockfax Description
Delicate and low in the grade - but precarious and scary! Climb the shallow groove just to the left of the nose (technical crux), then swing right and up to a deep break. From good runners, teeter up the bold rib to the final easy but exposed arete. © Rockfax

FA. Peter Biven 1956.

Ticklists

ROCKFAX Eastern Grit (2006): Top 500, Stanage Routes BMC Graded List, Stanage E1 Challenge (1989 Guide), Ron Fawcetts 100 extremes in a day, Peak Rock/7/8/Biven-Peck Partnership/1950's a Developing Decade, Pete's 150 Peak Extremes, Top 20 ticked Stanage starred E1s, Stanage Popular, Peak District Grit Graded List

Feedback

User Date Notes
Paul Tomo 8 Mar, 2007 Show βeta
βeta: Very good route from start to finish, get a small cam in at the break and go for it, bold mid section but positive holds, my second E1
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Very good route from start to finish, get a small cam in at the break and go for it, bold mid section but positive holds, my second E1
Oli 12 Apr, 2006 Show βeta
βeta: Can get a okish small nut in the horizontal on the rib. Still feels bold though.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Can get a okish small nut in the horizontal on the rib. Still feels bold though.
rayash 21 Nov, 2005 Show βeta
βeta: middle part has good deck out potential , the small cam placement is psychological protection only
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: middle part has good deck out potential , the small cam placement is psychological protection only
Andy Hobson 14 Oct, 2005 Show βeta
βeta: Very easy for E1 - crux is first two or three moves. The moves up the rib are quite easy once you commit to them. The finish is great!
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Very easy for E1 - crux is first two or three moves. The moves up the rib are quite easy once you commit to them. The finish is great!
Dave Orsman 28 May, 2004 Show βeta
βeta: A great route. Got a tiny cam into the horizontal on the rib - for peace of mind only. The moves up the rib are pretty straightforward - and a little scary.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: A great route. Got a tiny cam into the horizontal on the rib - for peace of mind only. The moves up the rib are pretty straightforward - and a little scary.
leon 24 May, 2004 Show βeta
βeta: a very nice route. the moves are pretty easy so it doesn't really feel too bold.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: a very nice route. the moves are pretty easy so it doesn't really feel too bold.
Jon Greengrass 8 Oct, 2003 Show βeta
βeta: Nice route, just get on it and go for it, don't watch someone ekse lead it first the sparsity of gear makes it look a frightener.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Nice route, just get on it and go for it, don't watch someone ekse lead it first the sparsity of gear makes it look a frightener.

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Style of Ascent
Lead
Followed
Soloed
Toproped
Alt Leads
Bouldered
Not Set
Onsighted
Repeated
Flashed (β)
DNF
Dogged
Redpoint
Ground Up
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Route of Interest

The Traverse

Grade: E1 5c ***
(Wildcat)