UKC

Restricted Access

There are frequently problems with car crime in the Stanage area. DO NOT LEAVE ANY VALUABLES ON DISPLAY IN CARS OR MINIBUSES.

Camper vans are becoming an issue with local residents and farmers as their concerns over human waste (and contamination of water supplies) increase with the number of vans overnighting in the various parking areas and laybys there. Please respect this incredible area and the people living wihin it by not overnighting in campervans at Stanage - a number of formal campsites are available locally including North Lees campsite

 

Access restrictions under CRoW  sometimes apply to areas north of the causeway, these vary each year - see signing at access points, or check the PDNP website for closure dates.

2023 published closure dates are: - August 29th - 31st; September 1st, 4th-8th, 11th - 15th, 18th - 22nd and 25th - 29th; October 2nd - 5th

 

These closures do not affect any public rights of way or concessionary paths which remain open.

Seasonal Restrictions

Dates: 1 May to 30 July

Reason: Nesting Birds

Ring ouzels are nesting on Stanage, Burbage and Bamford this year. The nest sites change quickly and frequently as ring ouzels often have several broods each year with different nest sites for each brood. On site signage will be up around any of the nest sites where climbing may impact on the birds and this is always up to date and accurate.

Stanage from High Neb westwards (and Bamford Edge, Moscar, Derwent & Hallam Moors) has a permenant dog restriction and in addition can be for land management reasons, as allowed under the CRoW Act (which allows the landowner to restrict access for up to 28 days per year). Full details of any restrictions and the areas affected can be found by searching for 'Stanage' on the Natural England open access maps website and scrolling to the restrictions section at the bottom of the page. 

These closures do not affect public rights of way (which remain open) or the concessionary paths to Stanage.

16m.

Rockfax Description
Delicate and low in the grade - but precarious and scary! Climb the shallow groove just to the left of the nose (technical crux), then swing right and up to a deep break. From good runners, teeter up the bold rib to the final easy arete. © Rockfax

FA. Peter Biven 1956.

Ticklists

ROCKFAX Eastern Grit (2006): Top 500 , Stanage Routes BMC Graded List , Stanage E1 Challenge (1989 Guide) , Ron Fawcetts 100 extremes in a day , Peak Rock/7/8/Biven-Peck Partnership/1950's a Developing Decade , Pete's 150 Peak Extremes , Top 20 ticked Stanage starred E1s , Stanage Popular , Wired Peak District Grit Graded List , Peak District Gritstone: Graham Hoey's Best Routes for Moving on to E1 , 2022 Rockfax Eastern Grit Graded List , Eastern Grit E1s , Eastern Grit 2015 - Top 500 E1

Feedback

User Date Notes
Paul Tomo 8 Mar, 2007 Show βeta
βeta: Very good route from start to finish, get a small cam in at the break and go for it, bold mid section but positive holds, my second E1
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Very good route from start to finish, get a small cam in at the break and go for it, bold mid section but positive holds, my second E1
Oli 12 Apr, 2006 Show βeta
βeta: Can get a okish small nut in the horizontal on the rib. Still feels bold though.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Can get a okish small nut in the horizontal on the rib. Still feels bold though.
rayash 21 Nov, 2005 Show βeta
βeta: middle part has good deck out potential , the small cam placement is psychological protection only
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: middle part has good deck out potential , the small cam placement is psychological protection only
Andy Hobson 14 Oct, 2005 Show βeta
βeta: Very easy for E1 - crux is first two or three moves. The moves up the rib are quite easy once you commit to them. The finish is great!
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Very easy for E1 - crux is first two or three moves. The moves up the rib are quite easy once you commit to them. The finish is great!
Dave Orsman 28 May, 2004 Show βeta
βeta: A great route. Got a tiny cam into the horizontal on the rib - for peace of mind only. The moves up the rib are pretty straightforward - and a little scary.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: A great route. Got a tiny cam into the horizontal on the rib - for peace of mind only. The moves up the rib are pretty straightforward - and a little scary.
leon 24 May, 2004 Show βeta
βeta: a very nice route. the moves are pretty easy so it doesn't really feel too bold.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: a very nice route. the moves are pretty easy so it doesn't really feel too bold.
Jon Greengrass 8 Oct, 2003 Show βeta
βeta: Nice route, just get on it and go for it, don't watch someone ekse lead it first the sparsity of gear makes it look a frightener.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Nice route, just get on it and go for it, don't watch someone ekse lead it first the sparsity of gear makes it look a frightener.

Logged Ascents

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Voting
High E2
Mid E2
Low E2
High E1
Mid E1
Low E1
High HVS
Mid HVS
Low HVS
Votes cast 232
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
High 5a
Mid 5a
Low 5a
Votes cast 222
Votes cast 205
Style of Ascent
Lead
Followed
Soloed
Toproped
Alt Leads
Bouldered
Not Set
Onsighted
Repeated
Flashed (β)
DNF
Dogged
Redpoint
Ground Up
Not Set
Route of Interest
Promontory Traverse

Grade: E1 5b ***
(Black Rocks)

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