Rockfax Description
Delicate and low in the grade - but precarious and scary! Climb the shallow groove just to the left of the nose (technical crux), then swing right and up to a deep break. From good runners, teeter up the bold rib to the final easy arete. © Rockfax
FA. Peter Biven 1956.
Ticklists
ROCKFAX Eastern Grit (2006): Top 500 , Stanage Routes BMC Graded List , Stanage E1 Challenge (1989 Guide) , Ron Fawcetts 100 extremes in a day , Peak Rock/7/8/Biven-Peck Partnership/1950's a Developing Decade , Pete's 150 Peak Extremes , Top 20 ticked Stanage starred E1s , Stanage Popular , Wired Peak District Grit Graded List , Peak District Gritstone: Graham Hoey's Best Routes for Moving on to E1 , 2022 Rockfax Eastern Grit Graded List , Eastern Grit E1s , Eastern Grit 2015 - Top 500 E1 , Stanage - all the routes on Stanage in the 1964 Sheffield-Stanage area guidebook , Best E1s on Peak Grit
Feedback
| User | Date | Notes | ||
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| Capricorn One | 30 May |
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βeta: Small-ish cam (gold 4CU in this case) seems to sit nicely in the slot to the right of the rib. | βeta? | |
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βeta: Small-ish cam (gold 4CU in this case) seems to sit nicely in the slot to the right of the rib. |
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| C Rettiw | 1 Oct, 2024 |
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βeta: Very bold (serious), but with very steady climbing for the grade. It's a route that tricks you into continuing onwards. | βeta? | |
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βeta: Very bold (serious), but with very steady climbing for the grade. It's a route that tricks you into continuing onwards. |
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| Paul Tomo | 8 Mar, 2007 |
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βeta: Very good route from start to finish, get a small cam in at the break and go for it, bold mid section but positive holds, my second E1 | ||
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βeta: Very good route from start to finish, get a small cam in at the break and go for it, bold mid section but positive holds, my second E1 |
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| Oli | 12 Apr, 2006 |
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βeta: Can get a okish small nut in the horizontal on the rib. Still feels bold though. | ||
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βeta: Can get a okish small nut in the horizontal on the rib. Still feels bold though. |
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| rayash | 21 Nov, 2005 |
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βeta: middle part has good deck out potential , the small cam placement is psychological protection only | ||
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βeta: middle part has good deck out potential , the small cam placement is psychological protection only |
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| Andy Hobson | 14 Oct, 2005 |
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βeta: Very easy for E1 - crux is first two or three moves. The moves up the rib are quite easy once you commit to them. The finish is great! | βeta? | |
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βeta: Very easy for E1 - crux is first two or three moves. The moves up the rib are quite easy once you commit to them. The finish is great! |
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| Dave Orsman | 28 May, 2004 |
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βeta: A great route. Got a tiny cam into the horizontal on the rib - for peace of mind only. The moves up the rib are pretty straightforward - and a little scary. | βeta? | |
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Show beta
βeta: A great route. Got a tiny cam into the horizontal on the rib - for peace of mind only. The moves up the rib are pretty straightforward - and a little scary. |
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| leon | 24 May, 2004 |
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βeta: a very nice route. the moves are pretty easy so it doesn't really feel too bold. | βeta? | |
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βeta: a very nice route. the moves are pretty easy so it doesn't really feel too bold. |
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| Jon Greengrass | 8 Oct, 2003 |
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βeta: Nice route, just get on it and go for it, don't watch someone ekse lead it first the sparsity of gear makes it look a frightener. | βeta? | |
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Show beta
βeta: Nice route, just get on it and go for it, don't watch someone ekse lead it first the sparsity of gear makes it look a frightener. |
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Sirplum
Grade: E1 5b ***
(Chee Dale Upper)