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16m.

Rockfax Description
This long straight crack is a must; mild for the grade, but sustained. Climb a V-groove to the crack and follow it with pleasure. The final leaning corner is awkward and there is also an exposed alternative out left. The only route in the Peak where you will be queuing every 25th December come hail or shine! © Rockfax

FA. George Bower 1926.

Ticklists

ROCKFAX Eastern Grit: Top 50, Dear Santa, Connoisseur's Classic Rock, Top 23 UKC Climbed Climbs, ROCKFAX Eastern Grit (2006): Top 500, Stanage Routes BMC Graded List, Steve Ashton's 100 Classic Gritstone Climbs, Eastern Grit Jamming, 100 Stanage stars, Full of Myself - Johnny's Book namecheck, 29 Routes, 87 Stars, 1 E Point each, 50 Best HS Routes in the UK., Stanage 100 VD - VS, Tom Randall's Classic Hand cracks, Tis the season, World Graded List, Peak Gritstone S-HVS **+, Northern (Yorkshire !?) Climbs for a Southerner, Peak Rock/3/ A Decade of Expansion, King of VDiff, The BMC 70th Anniversary Ticklist, Chatsworth to Bamford, Stanage for Crack Apprentices, AMC Uni Ticklist, 50 of the Best, 50 Stars in 20 Routes at Stanage Popular, WideBoyz Crack School, Top 50 Peak Cracks, Peak district Road To Ruins Diff-VS, The best the UK has to offer for mere mortals (apart from the lakes cos its always wet), Tom Ripley's best UK HS climbs, Rockfax Eastern Grit (2015) Top 50, #RadTradGirl UK HS/VS climbs Easter 2017, 3 Star Stanage, Definitive *** Peak Grit, Welcome to CUMC, Eastern Grit 2 star plus (HVS/VS/HS), Rockfax Peak Gritstone East (2001) Top 50, ROCKFAX Eastern Grit: Top 50 - First ten, Stan, Definitive Eastern Grit top 50- 2001, 2006 and 2015 editions, Stanage 'The Popular End, Orange Spot Heaven'. 12 routes, 36 stars!, The Gritlist, ROCKFAX Eastern Grit TOP 500: S and VS, Stanage Solo, Peak District Grit Graded List, Peak District Grit (2020) *** List, Eastern Grit Trip: The Best Of The Proposed Crags.

Feedback

User Date Notes
Paul Tomo 19 Jul, 2006 Show βeta
βeta: This is a very good route all the way to the top and very good for gear, weather was to hot temp was about 38c on the face and not a great deal of friction. good for grade
βeta?
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βeta: This is a very good route all the way to the top and very good for gear, weather was to hot temp was about 38c on the face and not a great deal of friction. good for grade
howlingbaboon 12 Jun, 2006 Show βeta
βeta: Splendid Route, the tricam'a still there, I almost lost a 2nd one near the bottom. Many thanks to the guy who recued it.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Splendid Route, the tricam'a still there, I almost lost a 2nd one near the bottom. Many thanks to the guy who recued it.
Sam Doyle 25 Dec, 2005 Show βeta
βeta: Climbed this route on Christmas Day. The queue was there as promised. Cheers to the climber who left the mince pie half way up. I'd recommend this route to anyone. Its an easy HS with as much gear in it as you can carry and even some you dont have to. Enjoy.
βeta?
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βeta: Climbed this route on Christmas Day. The queue was there as promised. Cheers to the climber who left the mince pie half way up. I'd recommend this route to anyone. Its an easy HS with as much gear in it as you can carry and even some you dont have to. Enjoy.
sheffieldchris 30 Oct, 2005 Show βeta
βeta: did this route for the first time on christmas morning, get there early it gets very busy and you are `forced to drink the grog` if you wait even worse for wear still ok at HS oh and santa soloed it behind me
βeta?
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βeta: did this route for the first time on christmas morning, get there early it gets very busy and you are `forced to drink the grog` if you wait even worse for wear still ok at HS oh and santa soloed it behind me
Dominion 24 Sep, 2005 Show βeta
βeta: Having said that, the start section is probably why it gets HS. A confident Severe leader may well find the bottom of this route a good introduction to Hard Severe.
βeta?
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βeta: Having said that, the start section is probably why it gets HS. A confident Severe leader may well find the bottom of this route a good introduction to Hard Severe.
Dominion 24 Sep, 2005 Show βeta
βeta: Fantastic route, on a good day. My 5th HS lead, loads of gear when you want it, and have cams of the same size(ish) - and lovely moves in it all the way up. The huge jugs on the top section - which I wasn't looking at too happily at from the ground - were a bonus, and a relief. Well deserves it's 3 stars, but HS is maybe a touch too high... Then again, possibly a touch hard for a S 4a.
βeta?
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βeta: Fantastic route, on a good day. My 5th HS lead, loads of gear when you want it, and have cams of the same size(ish) - and lovely moves in it all the way up. The huge jugs on the top section - which I wasn't looking at too happily at from the ground - were a bonus, and a relief. Well deserves it's 3 stars, but HS is maybe a touch too high... Then again, possibly a touch hard for a S 4a.
tchnorton 1 Jun, 2005 Show βeta
βeta: Lovely climb but found it very simple for the grade. Thought right hand trinity was trickier.
βeta?
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βeta: Lovely climb but found it very simple for the grade. Thought right hand trinity was trickier.
Si dH 22 Jul, 2004 Show βeta
βeta: several 4a moves but id say quite easy for HS. Certainly April Crack and Manc Buttress are quite a bit harder.
βeta?
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βeta: several 4a moves but id say quite easy for HS. Certainly April Crack and Manc Buttress are quite a bit harder.
LakesWinter 27 Sep, 2002 Show βeta
βeta: probably coz it is quite sustained, still, it's a great route
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: probably coz it is quite sustained, still, it's a great route

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High VS
Mid VS
Low VS
High HS
Mid HS
Low HS
High S
Mid S
Low S
Votes cast 435
High 4b
Mid 4b
Low 4b
High 4a
Mid 4a
Low 4a
High 3c
Mid 3c
Low 3c
Votes cast 414
Votes cast 430
Style of Ascent
Lead
Followed
Soloed
Toproped
Alt Leads
DWS
Bouldered
Not Set
Onsighted
Repeated
Flashed (β)
Dogged
Redpoint
DNF
Ground Up
Not Set
Route of Interest

Lynx

Grade: HS 4b ***
(Wildcat)