Rockfax Description
Elegant climbing up the arete left of the big corner. The lower part is technical as far as a short vertical crack. Beefy moves on spaced holds lead up the short wall to a final shallow groove. © Rockfax
FA. Alan Clarke 1965.
Ticklists
Stanage: My Favourite Five , ROCKFAX Eastern Grit (2006): Top 500 , Stanage Routes BMC Graded List , Stanage 3 Star HVS's - Eastern Grit , Peak Gritstone S-HVS **+ , Peak Rock/9/Gritstone in the Sixties , Stanage for Crack Apprentices , Ultimate HVS ticklist , Stanage Wishlist , Eastern Grit 2 star plus (HVS/VS/HS) , Stanage Popular , 2020/21 Trips , Stanage HVS Challenge - All the 3* , Wired Peak District Grit Graded List , Wired Peak District Grit (2020) *** List , Every 3 Starred HVS and Under Gritstone , LD's next grit trip(s) , LMC Lady Crushers 3* Extravaganza , Eastern Grit 2015 - Top 500 HVS , Loz’ Peaks Wishlist , 2022 Rockfax Eastern Grit Graded List , 3* HVS at Bamford, Stanage, Burbage, Millstone, Froggatt, and Curbar , Essential grit ticks for the aspiring trad leader , 28 3 Stars For 28 In The Peak , 100 Stars at Stanage , Stanage Popular end - every ‘orange’ 3 star route , Ben n Ken’s rad trad adventure
Feedback
| User | Date | Notes | ||
|---|---|---|---|---|
| TezzaT | 19 Jul |
Show βeta
βeta: brilliant climb. Reachy but very manageable even for a shorter climber making use of higher feet. Cams are the name of the game. Big loose boulder on top. Straddle the wide flat boulder to cross the gap after topping out. Left block is loose. | ||
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Show beta
βeta: brilliant climb. Reachy but very manageable even for a shorter climber making use of higher feet. Cams are the name of the game. Big loose boulder on top. Straddle the wide flat boulder to cross the gap after topping out. Left block is loose. |
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| CJHudson | 17 Apr, 2023 |
Show βeta
βeta: Easier for tall people | βeta? | |
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Show beta
βeta: Easier for tall people |
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| Mattwaltno123 | 15 Apr, 2022 |
Show βeta
βeta: Big send | βeta? | |
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Show beta
βeta: Big send |
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| colegosney | 9 Jun, 2021 |
Show βeta
βeta: quite a big loose block on the top, in line with master of disguise | βeta? | |
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Show beta
βeta: quite a big loose block on the top, in line with master of disguise |
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| Montdawg | 16 Aug, 2019 |
Show βeta
βeta: Pumpy for the leader, still a challenge for the second! Absolutely awesome route | βeta? | |
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Show beta
βeta: Pumpy for the leader, still a challenge for the second! Absolutely awesome route |
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| KarenW | 24 Sep, 2006 |
Show βeta
βeta: Have always avoided routes with reachy symbol, but glad I didn't avoid this one - very good, but why does it get a reachy symbol - ok for me at 5 foot 2 | ||
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Show beta
βeta: Have always avoided routes with reachy symbol, but glad I didn't avoid this one - very good, but why does it get a reachy symbol - ok for me at 5 foot 2 |
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| Tom Randall - Lattice Training | 5 Apr, 2006 |
Show βeta
βeta: Lovely! One of the best routes of this grade in the area... | βeta? | |
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Show beta
βeta: Lovely! One of the best routes of this grade in the area... |
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| Richard Hession | 31 Aug, 2005 |
Show βeta
βeta: Took a nice fall on to a cam in the break which kept me about 5" off the deck after rope stretch due to faffing around with a big nut in the vertical crack and cranking my left hand on that slopey ledge for too long! Nailed it on the 2nd attempt though :) | ||
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Show beta
βeta: Took a nice fall on to a cam in the break which kept me about 5" off the deck after rope stretch due to faffing around with a big nut in the vertical crack and cranking my left hand on that slopey ledge for too long! Nailed it on the 2nd attempt though :) |
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| Monk | 26 Jul, 2004 |
Show βeta
βeta: I found this hard. Maybe it's because I am short? The initial "crux" moves were really nice and not too hard. However I really struggled with the long reaches higher up. Excellent route though but very pumpy. | ||
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Show beta
βeta: I found this hard. Maybe it's because I am short? The initial "crux" moves were really nice and not too hard. However I really struggled with the long reaches higher up. Excellent route though but very pumpy. |
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| Chris the Tall | 29 May, 2003 |
Show βeta
βeta: Try to place the gear in the vertical crack quickly or you may find you haven't the strength to do the crux! | ||
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Show beta
βeta: Try to place the gear in the vertical crack quickly or you may find you haven't the strength to do the crux! |
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Logged Ascents
Guidebooks for Stanage Popular
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Neb Buttress Direct
Grade: HVS 5a ***
(Bamford Edge)