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14m.

Rockfax Description
Elegant climbing up the arete left of the big corner. The lower part is technical as far as a short vertical crack. Beefy moves on spaced holds lead up the short wall to a final shallow groove. © Rockfax

FA. Alan Clarke 1965.

Ticklists

Stanage: My Favourite Five, ROCKFAX Eastern Grit (2006): Top 500, Stanage Routes BMC Graded List, Stanage 3 Star HVS's - Eastern Grit, Peak Gritstone S-HVS **+, Peak Rock/9/Gritstone in the Sixties, Stanage for Crack Apprentices, Ultimate HVS ticklist, Stanage Wishlist, Eastern Grit 2 star plus (HVS/VS/HS), Stanage Popular, 2020 Trips, Stanage HVS Challenge - All the 3*, Peak District Grit Graded List, Peak District Grit (2020) *** List, Eastern Grit Trip: The Best Of The Proposed Crags., Ryan's Stanage Popular Right?

Feedback

User Date Notes
Montdawg 16 Aug, 2019 Show βeta
βeta: Pumpy for the leader, still a challenge for the second! Absolutely awesome route
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Pumpy for the leader, still a challenge for the second! Absolutely awesome route
KarenW 24 Sep, 2006 Show βeta
βeta: Have always avoided routes with reachy symbol, but glad I didn't avoid this one - very good, but why does it get a reachy symbol - ok for me at 5 foot 2
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Have always avoided routes with reachy symbol, but glad I didn't avoid this one - very good, but why does it get a reachy symbol - ok for me at 5 foot 2
Tom Randall - Lattice Training 5 Apr, 2006 Show βeta
βeta: Lovely! One of the best routes of this grade in the area...
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Lovely! One of the best routes of this grade in the area...
Richard Hession 31 Aug, 2005 Show βeta
βeta: Took a nice fall on to a cam in the break which kept me about 5" off the deck after rope stretch due to faffing around with a big nut in the vertical crack and cranking my left hand on that slopey ledge for too long! Nailed it on the 2nd attempt though :)
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Took a nice fall on to a cam in the break which kept me about 5" off the deck after rope stretch due to faffing around with a big nut in the vertical crack and cranking my left hand on that slopey ledge for too long! Nailed it on the 2nd attempt though :)
Monk 26 Jul, 2004 Show βeta
βeta: I found this hard. Maybe it's because I am short? The initial "crux" moves were really nice and not too hard. However I really struggled with the long reaches higher up. Excellent route though but very pumpy.
 
Show beta
βeta: I found this hard. Maybe it's because I am short? The initial "crux" moves were really nice and not too hard. However I really struggled with the long reaches higher up. Excellent route though but very pumpy.
Chris the Tall 29 May, 2003 Show βeta
βeta: Try to place the gear in the vertical crack quickly or you may find you haven't the strength to do the crux!
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Try to place the gear in the vertical crack quickly or you may find you haven't the strength to do the crux!

Logged Ascents

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High E1
Mid E1
Low E1
High HVS
Mid HVS
Low HVS
High VS
Mid VS
Low VS
Votes cast 340
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
High 5a
Mid 5a
Low 5a
Votes cast 329
Votes cast 325
Style of Ascent
Lead
Followed
Soloed
Toproped
Alt Leads
Bouldered
Not Set
Onsighted
Repeated
Dogged
Flashed (β)
DNF
Redpoint
Ground Up
Not Set
Route of Interest

Gangue Grooves

Grade: HVS 5b ***
(Willersley Castle Rocks)