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20m.

Rockfax Description
A fair test of how the jamming is coming on! Traverse the horizontal break on solid lockers (or by a gripping dangle) out to the nose. Finish up the exposed juggy arete. © Rockfax

FA. Gilbert Ellis 1950.

Ticklists

ROCKFAX Eastern Grit (2006): Top 500, 14 In A Day, Stanage Routes BMC Graded List, Steve Ashton's 100 Classic Gritstone Climbs, Eastern Grit Jamming, 29 Routes, 87 Stars, 1 E Point each, Stanage 100 VD - VS, Stanage VS Challenge (1989 Guide), Peak Gritstone S-HVS **+, Get out on Rock, Stanage for Crack Apprentices, Stanage Wishlist, Eastern Grit 2 star plus (HVS/VS/HS), Stanage Popular, The Gritlist, Peak District Grit Graded List, Eastern Grit Trip: The Best Of The Proposed Crags.

Feedback

User Date Notes
Al Evans 30 Sep, 2006 Show βeta
βeta: Think about your second, only use one rope for runners on the traverse, This was my first VS, (about 45 years ago) as a second and we only had one rope, but it was ok because we didnt have cams so runners were not a problem. Good lead by my mate, his first VS lead, mine was IV, the route next door straight after :-)
βeta?
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βeta: Think about your second, only use one rope for runners on the traverse, This was my first VS, (about 45 years ago) as a second and we only had one rope, but it was ok because we didnt have cams so runners were not a problem. Good lead by my mate, his first VS lead, mine was IV, the route next door straight after :-)
sheffieldchris 29 Jan, 2006 Show βeta
βeta: too right ment right
βeta?
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βeta: too right ment right
Chris Craggs 30 Oct, 2005 Show βeta
βeta: Better off putting the gear to the RIGHT - less likely to hit the ground that way! CC
βeta?
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βeta: Better off putting the gear to the RIGHT - less likely to hit the ground that way! CC
sheffieldchris 30 Oct, 2005 Show βeta
βeta: top tip on this route get to the start of the travers put some gear in, take the rest, move left put some gear in as far away as you can, come back and have another rest then go for it but do not get the end move wrong have seen a fair few people deck on this route
βeta?
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βeta: top tip on this route get to the start of the travers put some gear in, take the rest, move left put some gear in as far away as you can, come back and have another rest then go for it but do not get the end move wrong have seen a fair few people deck on this route
Si dH 17 Aug, 2005 Show βeta
βeta: Pretty soft IMO, you dont even need to jam it if you dont want to. If you sort your feet out youre never footless either (can stretch from slopers on left to slopers on right with a wide stance) and the break not only has good jams but positive holds to boot. Enough gera can be placed before committing to make it safe.
βeta?
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βeta: Pretty soft IMO, you dont even need to jam it if you dont want to. If you sort your feet out youre never footless either (can stretch from slopers on left to slopers on right with a wide stance) and the break not only has good jams but positive holds to boot. Enough gera can be placed before committing to make it safe.
MeMeMe 2 May, 2005 Show βeta
βeta: The traverse has poor footholds at the start (little pebbles), but good jams, as it continues the footholds get better and the jams get worse (they got too wide for me). Gear is great at long as you have the strength to stop and place it. The arete is very pleasant too (and very easy).
βeta?
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βeta: The traverse has poor footholds at the start (little pebbles), but good jams, as it continues the footholds get better and the jams get worse (they got too wide for me). Gear is great at long as you have the strength to stop and place it. The arete is very pleasant too (and very easy).
nick w 27 Apr, 2005 Show βeta
βeta: great route ,but came off after "going 4 it"and split my head open on the boulders below!be warned, put some gear in.
βeta?
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βeta: great route ,but came off after "going 4 it"and split my head open on the boulders below!be warned, put some gear in.
Sam and will 14 Mar, 2005 Show βeta
βeta: a brilliant route, great test for VS hand jamming
βeta?
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βeta: a brilliant route, great test for VS hand jamming
Jon Stewart 8 Dec, 2003 Show βeta
βeta: no need to jam? maybe not, but it makes it a thousand times easier (unless you enjoy dangling off slopers)
βeta?
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βeta: no need to jam? maybe not, but it makes it a thousand times easier (unless you enjoy dangling off slopers)
shaun walby 15 Nov, 2003 Show βeta
βeta: Was really looking forward to this one but have to say it disappointed, the traverse is the climb and its not as difficult/good as it looks, one bit of gear and keep going.No need to jam.
βeta?
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βeta: Was really looking forward to this one but have to say it disappointed, the traverse is the climb and its not as difficult/good as it looks, one bit of gear and keep going.No need to jam.
Jamie B 5 May, 2003 Show βeta
βeta: The traverse didn't get any easier for me; pumped out and fell off the last move, taking quite a swing. Was solid at VS 4c at the time so believe the route to be HVS 5a but nobody ever agrees with me; the footholds are very poor on the traverse.
βeta?
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βeta: The traverse didn't get any easier for me; pumped out and fell off the last move, taking quite a swing. Was solid at VS 4c at the time so believe the route to be HVS 5a but nobody ever agrees with me; the footholds are very poor on the traverse.

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Voting
High HVS
Mid HVS
Low HVS
High VS
Mid VS
Low VS
High HS
Mid HS
Low HS
Votes cast 188
High 5a
Mid 5a
Low 5a
High 4c
Mid 4c
Low 4c
High 4b
Mid 4b
Low 4b
Votes cast 178
Votes cast 168
Style of Ascent
Lead
Followed
Soloed
Alt Leads
Toproped
Not Set
Onsighted
Repeated
Dogged
Flashed (β)
DNF
Ground Up
Redpoint
Not Set
Route of Interest

High Neb Buttress

Grade: VS 4c ***
(Stanage North)