UKC

Restricted Access

There are frequently problems with car crime in the Stanage area. DO NOT LEAVE ANY VALUABLES ON DISPLAY IN CARS OR MINIBUSES.

Camper vans are becoming an issue with local residents and farmers as their concerns over human waste (and contamination of water supplies) increase with the number of vans overnighting in the various parking areas and laybys there. Please respect this incredible area and the people living wihin it by not overnighting in campervans at Stanage - a number of formal campsites are available locally including North Lees campsite

 

Access restrictions under CRoW  sometimes apply to areas north of the causeway, these vary each year - see signing at access points, or check the PDNP website for closure dates.

2023 published closure dates are: - August 29th - 31st; September 1st, 4th-8th, 11th - 15th, 18th - 22nd and 25th - 29th; October 2nd - 5th

 

These closures do not affect any public rights of way or concessionary paths which remain open.

Seasonal Restrictions

Dates: 1 May to 30 July

Reason: Nesting Birds

Ring ouzels are nesting on Stanage, Burbage and Bamford this year. The nest sites change quickly and frequently as ring ouzels often have several broods each year with different nest sites for each brood. On site signage will be up around any of the nest sites where climbing may impact on the birds and this is always up to date and accurate.

Stanage from High Neb westwards (and Bamford Edge, Moscar, Derwent & Hallam Moors) has a permenant dog restriction and in addition can be for land management reasons, as allowed under the CRoW Act (which allows the landowner to restrict access for up to 28 days per year). Full details of any restrictions and the areas affected can be found by searching for 'Stanage' on the Natural England open access maps website and scrolling to the restrictions section at the bottom of the page. 

These closures do not affect public rights of way (which remain open) or the concessionary paths to Stanage.

Rockfax Description
A superb traverse along the juggy break and then the sloping ledge and continuation crack. Start on the hold on the arete (or from the cave for the extended f7A+ version). Finish along North to the arete. Oddly easier done right-to-left - f6C+. © Rockfax

FA. Chris Hamper 1980s.

Ticklists

Peak Bouldering's 7a's , James' peak Bouldering Ticklist , Peak boulders , All the boulders , Peak 200 , All of Stanage Far Right , Hard Grit Classics Only , Peak Boudering 3 Star 7a/+'s , JDs Gritstone Guide

Feedback

User Date Notes
The Wheel Thing 15 Feb Show βeta
βeta: Hi Daimon. It starts at the beggining of the problem
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Hi Daimon. It starts at the beggining of the problem
Daimon - Rockfax 13 Mar, 2003 Show βeta
βeta: ME TO WERE DOES IT START? I RECON THE START IS THE ONE IN THE BOLDERING GUIDE. ANY ONE
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: ME TO WERE DOES IT START? I RECON THE START IS THE ONE IN THE BOLDERING GUIDE. ANY ONE
Daimon - Rockfax 24 Feb, 2003 Show βeta
βeta: Were does it start?? The discription conflicts with the Peak Boldering Guide.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Were does it start?? The discription conflicts with the Peak Boldering Guide.

Logged Ascents

338 users have logged this

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Voting
High f7A+
Mid f7A+
Low f7A+
High f7A
Mid f7A
Low f7A
High f6C+
Mid f6C+
Low f6C+
Votes cast 39
Votes cast 35
Style of Ascent
Bouldered
Soloed
Lead
Not Set
Redpoint
DNF
Flashed (β)
Repeated
Onsighted
Not Set
Route of Interest
Young, Gifted and Black

Grade: f7A ***
(Blackwell Dale)

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