Rockfax Description
Excellent climbing up the cracked face to a deeper vertical crack. Awkward moves gain a ledge then a right-trending scoop. From the large ledge above finish up the easy corner on the right. © Rockfax
Ticklists
Stanage: My Favourite Five , Top 23 UKC Climbed Climbs , ROCKFAX Eastern Grit (2006): Top 500 , Stanage Routes BMC Graded List , Steve Ashton's 100 Classic Gritstone Climbs , Stanage 100 VD - VS , Stanage VS Challenge (1989 Guide) , World Graded List , Peak Gritstone S-HVS **+ , Northern (Yorkshire !?) Climbs for a Southerner , Get out on Rock , Chatsworth to Bamford , ULMC Classics , Eastern Grit 2 star plus (HVS/VS/HS) , Heather Walls , Severe Stanage , The Gritlist , Routes Chloe would recommend , Wired Peak District Grit Graded List , LSMC to do , Top 20 UKC Gritstone Climbs , 2022 Rockfax Eastern Grit Graded List , Essential grit ticks for the aspiring trad leader
Feedback
| User | Date | Notes | ||
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| LakesWinter | 29 Oct, 2022 |
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βeta: The protection is fine if you place it well. This is also an easy VS - obvious moves and gear. | βeta? | |
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βeta: The protection is fine if you place it well. This is also an easy VS - obvious moves and gear. |
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| AndyClifford | 16 Jun, 2022 |
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βeta: Due to wear the protection is hard to place and dubious. | βeta? | |
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βeta: Due to wear the protection is hard to place and dubious. |
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| Andi_FJ | 30 Sep, 2019 |
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βeta: Due to really polished footholds i found it pumpy for the grade, but a good sloperledge excercise | βeta? | |
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βeta: Due to really polished footholds i found it pumpy for the grade, but a good sloperledge excercise |
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| Mutl3y | 27 Feb, 2007 |
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βeta: Graded Severe in the 1964 guide. No wonder I found it so easy. | βeta? | |
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βeta: Graded Severe in the 1964 guide. No wonder I found it so easy. |
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| Paul Tomo | 6 Oct, 2006 |
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βeta: This is a very nice route, it is a shame that it is so short, Paul Tomo | βeta? | |
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βeta: This is a very nice route, it is a shame that it is so short, Paul Tomo |
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| MNA123 | 25 Sep, 2006 |
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βeta: Nice easy VS, good gear, good holds, and just steep enough. Good route! | βeta? | |
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βeta: Nice easy VS, good gear, good holds, and just steep enough. Good route! |
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| smithaldo | 23 Mar, 2006 |
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βeta: Murphy, you had seconded it before leading it, hence why you found it easy, deffo VS if you have no idea of the moves or gear. | βeta? | |
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βeta: Murphy, you had seconded it before leading it, hence why you found it easy, deffo VS if you have no idea of the moves or gear. |
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| Si dH | 4 Aug, 2005 |
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βeta: Id say middling-low VS, good enough pro all the way and once 4c move, although can probably be pumpy if youre nervous or and take too long placing gear. Never vdiff, and harder than manc buttress :) | βeta? | |
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βeta: Id say middling-low VS, good enough pro all the way and once 4c move, although can probably be pumpy if youre nervous or and take too long placing gear. Never vdiff, and harder than manc buttress :) |
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| Mutl3y | 29 Jul, 2005 |
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βeta: In reply to steve davison: No offence taken but I think you're being a bit rude. I found this route - which I led - to be considerably easier than any other VS climbs that I have led (compare this with topsail or trapeze direct), and at least a dozen or more 'easier' graded climbs - including, but not limited to Tango Buttress, Wall End Holly Tree Crack, The Coign and Crack and Corner (all Stanage), and Route 3 at Burbage North, which is a VDiff 4a and my favourite Birchen undergraded route - Poop Deck Crack (VD). It is also, by the way, much easier than Manchester Buttress (HS) which, while I did fall off whilst seconding, was not winched up! On the over-rating, I sign up to a school of thought that gives 3 stars only to the best problems around and 2 for the best in the area. Heather Wall is none of these. I am happy to be in a minority of opinion but wouldn't try to insult those who disagree with me. | βeta? | |
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βeta: In reply to steve davison: No offence taken but I think you're being a bit rude. I found this route - which I led - to be considerably easier than any other VS climbs that I have led (compare this with topsail or trapeze direct), and at least a dozen or more 'easier' graded climbs - including, but not limited to Tango Buttress, Wall End Holly Tree Crack, The Coign and Crack and Corner (all Stanage), and Route 3 at Burbage North, which is a VDiff 4a and my favourite Birchen undergraded route - Poop Deck Crack (VD). It is also, by the way, much easier than Manchester Buttress (HS) which, while I did fall off whilst seconding, was not winched up! On the over-rating, I sign up to a school of thought that gives 3 stars only to the best problems around and 2 for the best in the area. Heather Wall is none of these. I am happy to be in a minority of opinion but wouldn't try to insult those who disagree with me. |
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| leon | 28 Jul, 2005 |
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βeta: Anyone with range of experience of gritstone routes will know that this route is bang on at VS 4c. If you think that this is a poor vdiff route then you should try leading it instead of being winched up it on a top rope. | βeta? | |
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βeta: Anyone with range of experience of gritstone routes will know that this route is bang on at VS 4c. If you think that this is a poor vdiff route then you should try leading it instead of being winched up it on a top rope. |
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| Mutl3y | 28 Jul, 2005 |
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βeta: Too short, overgraded and over rated. Easier than its Crack and Corner neighbour. V Diff maybe? | βeta? | |
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βeta: Too short, overgraded and over rated. Easier than its Crack and Corner neighbour. V Diff maybe? |
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| Jon Greengrass | 25 Jul, 2004 |
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βeta: Avoid following the cracks and yard between the breaks all the holds are good. | βeta? | |
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βeta: Avoid following the cracks and yard between the breaks all the holds are good. |
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| Dan_S | 20 Jul, 2003 |
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βeta: First VS lead. Excellent route, good gear. Unfortunatly short though. | βeta? | |
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βeta: First VS lead. Excellent route, good gear. Unfortunatly short though. |
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| Simon Caldwell | 7 Apr, 2003 |
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βeta: Pretty sustained, I don't think my arms would have got me up it without a winter at the climbing wall :) | βeta? | |
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βeta: Pretty sustained, I don't think my arms would have got me up it without a winter at the climbing wall :) |
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| Monk | 14 Oct, 2002 |
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βeta: Shiny! | βeta? | |
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βeta: Shiny! |
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| bone | 14 Sep, 2002 |
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βeta: excellent for 1st VS lead. steep, great gear and quite reachy. shame its over so soon! | βeta? | |
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βeta: excellent for 1st VS lead. steep, great gear and quite reachy. shame its over so soon! |
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Logged Ascents
Guidebooks for Stanage Popular
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Medusa
Grade: VS 4b ***
(Ravensdale)