Rockfax Description
A good varied route. Climb the edge of the slab to the right end of the overhangs and pull through at a short vertical crack. Step left into an open groove and bridge up this to a rounded exit. © Rockfax
FA. Colin Kirkus 1934.
Ticklists
ROCKFAX Eastern Grit (2006): Top 500 , Stanage Routes BMC Graded List , Kirkus Routes , Stanage E1 Challenge (1989 Guide) , Peak Rock/4/ Universities,Teams and Clubs in the 1930's , Top 20 ticked Stanage starred E1s , Stanage Popular , The climbs of Menlove Edwards and Colin Kirkus , Colin Kirkus' routes , Wired Peak District Grit Graded List , 2022 Rockfax Eastern Grit Graded List , Eastern Grit E1s , Eastern Grit 2015 - Top 500 E1 , E1's
Feedback
| User | Date | Notes | ||
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| Jack Benten | 4 Jun |
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βeta: Well deserved E1. Creating a nest beneath the roof with two cams felt good. Moving up you have the awkward reach and heel hook before moving your feet over and getting a no hands rest. From there, slopy holds reach an awkward finish, with possible placements throughout. Definitive E1 5b. | ||
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βeta: Well deserved E1. Creating a nest beneath the roof with two cams felt good. Moving up you have the awkward reach and heel hook before moving your feet over and getting a no hands rest. From there, slopy holds reach an awkward finish, with possible placements throughout. Definitive E1 5b. |
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| leon | 23 Apr, 2019 |
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βeta: is it harder than fying buttress? i might try flying buttress then. rekon the pull over the overhang is definately 5b & took me a while to work out. once you're over the overhang though i thought it was too easy to warrant "a bold finale" . | βeta? | |
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βeta: is it harder than fying buttress? i might try flying buttress then. rekon the pull over the overhang is definately 5b & took me a while to work out. once you're over the overhang though i thought it was too easy to warrant "a bold finale" . |
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| Paul Tomo | 10 Jun, 2007 |
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βeta: The hardest move was getting onto the ledge after the overhang, from then on the padding up the wall was quite easy. | βeta? | |
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βeta: The hardest move was getting onto the ledge after the overhang, from then on the padding up the wall was quite easy. |
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| MNA123 | 24 May, 2007 |
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βeta: Trying to get back to E1 so i spent plenty of time falling off the crux, i was too busy trying to lunge up and right for the good hold i didn't think about going left then right it's much easier. I had a little slip on the top part and i think a piece of poo came out :-0 | ||
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βeta: Trying to get back to E1 so i spent plenty of time falling off the crux, i was too busy trying to lunge up and right for the good hold i didn't think about going left then right it's much easier. I had a little slip on the top part and i think a piece of poo came out :-0 |
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| Si dH | 4 Aug, 2005 |
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βeta: First E1 :) I found the crux pretty hard, solid 5b but ok after I'd stood around working it out and getting rid of in-the-way cams :) Top-out was fine in comparison, but then I am good at "exposed padding", so maybe I only get HVS :) | βeta? | |
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βeta: First E1 :) I found the crux pretty hard, solid 5b but ok after I'd stood around working it out and getting rid of in-the-way cams :) Top-out was fine in comparison, but then I am good at "exposed padding", so maybe I only get HVS :) |
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| Pythonist | 6 Sep, 2004 |
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βeta: It is an admittedly fun lower slab with only one real move to gain the stance at the bottom of the scoop, but I was the most gripped I've been in recent times, even with 4c padding on the upper section. A great thriller, and a good climb. (Oh, and doing a hanging belay at the top's quite fun too!) | βeta? | |
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βeta: It is an admittedly fun lower slab with only one real move to gain the stance at the bottom of the scoop, but I was the most gripped I've been in recent times, even with 4c padding on the upper section. A great thriller, and a good climb. (Oh, and doing a hanging belay at the top's quite fun too!) |
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| Jus | 16 Jun, 2004 |
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βeta: One hard move getting estabished on the upper wall. | βeta? | |
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βeta: One hard move getting estabished on the upper wall. |
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| Neil Morbey | 9 Nov, 2003 |
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βeta: A very nice climb- not that bold really- with help of a size 2 friend. Initial slab is tricky, The crux is thrilling and the upper bulges are a delight. | ||
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βeta: A very nice climb- not that bold really- with help of a size 2 friend. Initial slab is tricky, The crux is thrilling and the upper bulges are a delight. |
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Logged Ascents
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The Left Unconquerable
Grade: E1 5b ***
(Stanage Plantation)