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14m.

Rockfax Description
A good varied route. Climb the edge of the slab to the right end of the overhangs and pull through at a short vertical crack (good wires). Step left into an open groove and bridge up this to a rounded exit. HVS for those who don't mind exposed padding. © Rockfax

FA. Colin Kirkus 1934.

Ticklists

ROCKFAX Eastern Grit (2006): Top 500, Stanage Routes BMC Graded List, Kirkus Routes, Stanage E1 Challenge (1989 Guide), Peak Rock/4/ Universities,Teams and Clubs in the 1930's, Top 20 ticked Stanage starred E1s, Stanage Popular, The climbs of Menlove Edwards and Colin Kirkus, Colin Kirkus' routes, Peak District Grit Graded List

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User Date Notes
leon 23 Apr, 2019 Show βeta
βeta: is it harder than fying buttress? i might try flying buttress then. rekon the pull over the overhang is definately 5b & took me a while to work out. once you're over the overhang though i thought it was too easy to warrant "a bold finale" .
βeta?
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βeta: is it harder than fying buttress? i might try flying buttress then. rekon the pull over the overhang is definately 5b & took me a while to work out. once you're over the overhang though i thought it was too easy to warrant "a bold finale" .
Paul Tomo 10 Jun, 2007 Show βeta
βeta: The hardest move was getting onto the ledge after the overhang, from then on the padding up the wall was quite easy.
βeta?
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βeta: The hardest move was getting onto the ledge after the overhang, from then on the padding up the wall was quite easy.
MNA123 24 May, 2007 Show βeta
βeta: Trying to get back to E1 so i spent plenty of time falling off the crux, i was too busy trying to lunge up and right for the good hold i didn't think about going left then right it's much easier. I had a little slip on the top part and i think a piece of poo came out :-0
 
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βeta: Trying to get back to E1 so i spent plenty of time falling off the crux, i was too busy trying to lunge up and right for the good hold i didn't think about going left then right it's much easier. I had a little slip on the top part and i think a piece of poo came out :-0
Si dH 4 Aug, 2005 Show βeta
βeta: First E1 :) I found the crux pretty hard, solid 5b but ok after I'd stood around working it out and getting rid of in-the-way cams :) Top-out was fine in comparison, but then I am good at "exposed padding", so maybe I only get HVS :)
βeta?
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βeta: First E1 :) I found the crux pretty hard, solid 5b but ok after I'd stood around working it out and getting rid of in-the-way cams :) Top-out was fine in comparison, but then I am good at "exposed padding", so maybe I only get HVS :)
Iggy_B 22 Feb, 2005 Show βeta
βeta: A nice E1 5b the gear is bomber and the moves are enjoyable.
βeta?
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βeta: A nice E1 5b the gear is bomber and the moves are enjoyable.
Pythonist 6 Sep, 2004 Show βeta
βeta: It is an admittedly fun lower slab with only one real move to gain the stance at the bottom of the scoop, but I was the most gripped I've been in recent times, even with 4c padding on the upper section. A great thriller, and a good climb. (Oh, and doing a hanging belay at the top's quite fun too!)
βeta?
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βeta: It is an admittedly fun lower slab with only one real move to gain the stance at the bottom of the scoop, but I was the most gripped I've been in recent times, even with 4c padding on the upper section. A great thriller, and a good climb. (Oh, and doing a hanging belay at the top's quite fun too!)
Jus 16 Jun, 2004 Show βeta
βeta: One hard move getting estabished on the upper wall.
βeta?
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βeta: One hard move getting estabished on the upper wall.
Neil Morbey 9 Nov, 2003 Show βeta
βeta: A very nice climb- not that bold really- with help of a size 2 friend. Initial slab is tricky, The crux is thrilling and the upper bulges are a delight.
 
Show beta
βeta: A very nice climb- not that bold really- with help of a size 2 friend. Initial slab is tricky, The crux is thrilling and the upper bulges are a delight.

Logged Ascents

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Voting
High E2
Mid E2
Low E2
High E1
Mid E1
Low E1
High HVS
Mid HVS
Low HVS
Votes cast 112
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
High 5a
Mid 5a
Low 5a
Votes cast 109
Votes cast 99
Style of Ascent
Lead
Followed
Soloed
Toproped
Bouldered
Not Set
Onsighted
Repeated
Dogged
Flashed (β)
DNF
Redpoint
Ground Up
Not Set
Route of Interest

The Tippler

Grade: E1 5b ***
(Stanage Popular)