UKC

Restricted Access

There are frequently problems with car crime in the Stanage area. DO NOT LEAVE ANY VALUABLES ON DISPLAY IN CARS OR MINIBUSES.

Camper vans are becoming an issue with local residents and farmers as their concerns over human waste (and contamination of water supplies) increase with the number of vans overnighting in the various parking areas and laybys there. Please respect this incredible area and the people living wihin it by not overnighting in campervans at Stanage - a number of formal campsites are available locally including North Lees campsite

 

Access restrictions under CRoW  sometimes apply to areas north of the causeway, these vary each year - see signing at access points, or check the PDNP website for closure dates.

2023 published closure dates are: - August 29th - 31st; September 1st, 4th-8th, 11th - 15th, 18th - 22nd and 25th - 29th; October 2nd - 5th

 

These closures do not affect any public rights of way or concessionary paths which remain open.

Seasonal Restrictions

Dates: 1 May to 30 July

Reason: Nesting Birds

Ring ouzels are nesting on Stanage, Burbage and Bamford this year. The nest sites change quickly and frequently as ring ouzels often have several broods each year with different nest sites for each brood. On site signage will be up around any of the nest sites where climbing may impact on the birds and this is always up to date and accurate.

Stanage from High Neb westwards (and Bamford Edge, Moscar, Derwent & Hallam Moors) has a permenant dog restriction and in addition can be for land management reasons, as allowed under the CRoW Act (which allows the landowner to restrict access for up to 28 days per year). Full details of any restrictions and the areas affected can be found by searching for 'Stanage' on the Natural England open access maps website and scrolling to the restrictions section at the bottom of the page. 

These closures do not affect public rights of way (which remain open) or the concessionary paths to Stanage.

14m.

Rockfax Description
The long groove on the right-hand side of the pillar is followed throughout. It is well protected, very pleasant and popular. © Rockfax

Ticklists

ROCKFAX Eastern Grit (2006): Top 500 , Stanage Routes BMC Graded List , 100 Stanage stars , Stanage 100 VD - VS , Get out on Rock , Chatsworth to Bamford , Stanage for Crack Apprentices , Stanage Starred VDiffs , 50 Stars in 20 Routes at Stanage Popular , Peak district Road To Ruins Diff-VS , Stanage Popular Greens , Stanage 'Difficults' , Peak diff and vdiff starred routes and top 50 , Stanage Solo , Wired Peak District Grit Graded List , Level 1 Peak Trad Routes , Graham Hoey’s Best Peak District Gritstone Routes for Beginners , 2022 Rockfax Eastern Grit Graded List , Stanage Green Spot Challenge , Stanage 1956

Feedback

User Date Notes
NickLanderCMC 9 Sep, 2020 Show βeta
βeta: Nice. Easier with bold layback moves
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Nice. Easier with bold layback moves
Si dH 3 Jan, 2005 Show βeta
βeta: The moves around where that photo is (10-15m up?) are a nightmare if soloing in a gale. I got my head stuck in the chimney on the left and had to take my woolly hat off to get out in a squatting position, which felt far from secure. Perhaps I shouldn't have gone in it in the first place...
Show beta
βeta: The moves around where that photo is (10-15m up?) are a nightmare if soloing in a gale. I got my head stuck in the chimney on the left and had to take my woolly hat off to get out in a squatting position, which felt far from secure. Perhaps I shouldn't have gone in it in the first place...
Nutkey 31 May, 2004 Show βeta
βeta: Found this pretty straightforward (and I'm 5'5"). Easier than Hollybush Crack
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Found this pretty straightforward (and I'm 5'5"). Easier than Hollybush Crack
Monk 12 May, 2004 Show βeta
βeta: After being seconded by a lanky git last night, i discovered this is much easier for the tall.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: After being seconded by a lanky git last night, i discovered this is much easier for the tall.
victim of mathematics 9 Apr, 2004 Show βeta
βeta: Hard at Vdiff, and some of the moves require some bizarre contortions, but maybe that's just the way I climb.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Hard at Vdiff, and some of the moves require some bizarre contortions, but maybe that's just the way I climb.

Logged Ascents

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Guidebooks for Stanage Popular

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Voting
High HVD
Mid HVD
Low HVD
High VD
Mid VD
Low VD
High HD
Mid HD
Low HD
Votes cast 277
Votes cast 242
Style of Ascent
Lead
Followed
Soloed
Toproped
Alt Leads
Not Set
Onsighted
Repeated
Flashed (β)
DNF
Dogged
Redpoint
Ground Up
Not Set
Route of Interest
Zig-zag

Grade: VD ***
(Kinder Downfall)

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