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16m.

Rockfax Description
A bit of proper class - how good is your rope-work? Start up the crack in the arete then head left to out-flank the first overhang. Move up to a deep break then make an awkward traverse back to the right to gain the ledge round the corner. Finish direct. © Rockfax

FA. Maurice Linnel early 1930s.

Ticklists

Top 23 UKC Climbed Climbs, ROCKFAX Eastern Grit (2006): Top 500, Stanage Routes BMC Graded List, Steve Ashton's 100 Classic Gritstone Climbs, Eastern Grit Jamming, 100 Stanage stars, 29 Routes, 87 Stars, 1 E Point each, Stanage 100 VD - VS, Peak Gritstone S-HVS **+, Northern (Yorkshire !?) Climbs for a Southerner, Chatsworth to Bamford, CUMC Ticklist, Peak district Road To Ruins Diff-VS, 3 Star Stanage, Stanage Wishlist, Definitive *** Peak Grit, The Ultimate SUMC Ticklist, Eastern Grit 2 star plus (HVS/VS/HS), Consolidation and developmental path to VS, Stanage 'The Popular End, Orange Spot Heaven'. 12 routes, 36 stars!, The Gritlist, ROCKFAX Eastern Grit TOP 500: S and VS, Peak District Grit Graded List, Peak District Grit (2020) *** List, Eastern Grit Trip: The Best Of The Proposed Crags.

Feedback

User Date Notes
BertieP42 17 Apr Show βeta
βeta: Scary rockover with fist jam in horizontal crack
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Scary rockover with fist jam in horizontal crack
Jon Greengrass 27 Jan Show βeta
βeta: Unless you've got enormous fists the traverse back right onto the front face is not easy, Beta alert! there is a good crimp deep in the break otherwise try hugging the blunt arete.
 
Show beta
βeta: Unless you've got enormous fists the traverse back right onto the front face is not easy, Beta alert! there is a good crimp deep in the break otherwise try hugging the blunt arete.
Fidget 3 Apr, 2006 Show βeta
βeta: Amazing route! Totally deserving of it's 3 stars and not a bit of polish anywhere (although maybe I've just jinxed it by saying that). Found the horizontal break a bit small for fists and large for a hand jam, which led to an interesting belly flop onto the ledge. The finish isn't a walk in the park either when it's blowing a gale, which adds to the excitement!
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Amazing route! Totally deserving of it's 3 stars and not a bit of polish anywhere (although maybe I've just jinxed it by saying that). Found the horizontal break a bit small for fists and large for a hand jam, which led to an interesting belly flop onto the ledge. The finish isn't a walk in the park either when it's blowing a gale, which adds to the excitement!
Richard Hession 10 Feb, 2005 Show βeta
βeta: Thought it was pretty easy compared to some other HS's I've done before. The traverse right was great fun especially when you find the crimp near the back of the break! :) HS 4b is about right
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Thought it was pretty easy compared to some other HS's I've done before. The traverse right was great fun especially when you find the crimp near the back of the break! :) HS 4b is about right
Si dH 22 Jul, 2004 Show βeta
βeta: Great route altho harder than all the other classic HSs at Stanage Pop eg. april + christmas cracks or RHRHBD IMHO - not that Im saying it should be upgraded, its about right. The traverse back across was ok using a crimp deep in the break, as for fist-jams.... Id need a break at least 1.5 times that size to jam my fist in it, nearer to a hand-jam!
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Great route altho harder than all the other classic HSs at Stanage Pop eg. april + christmas cracks or RHRHBD IMHO - not that Im saying it should be upgraded, its about right. The traverse back across was ok using a crimp deep in the break, as for fist-jams.... Id need a break at least 1.5 times that size to jam my fist in it, nearer to a hand-jam!
Simon Caldwell 7 Jun, 2004 Show βeta
βeta: The direct variant Manchester United HVS 5b is also well worth doing - much easier for the tall :)
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: The direct variant Manchester United HVS 5b is also well worth doing - much easier for the tall :)
leon 13 Apr, 2004 Show βeta
βeta: this has got to be one of the best grit routes i've done. brilliant moves on positive holds
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: this has got to be one of the best grit routes i've done. brilliant moves on positive holds
Stefan Kruger 5 Apr, 2002 Show βeta
βeta: Budding leaders will probably find this hard for the grade.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Budding leaders will probably find this hard for the grade.

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High VS
Mid VS
Low VS
High HS
Mid HS
Low HS
High S
Mid S
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Votes cast 454
High 4c
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Low 4c
High 4b
Mid 4b
Low 4b
High 4a
Mid 4a
Low 4a
Votes cast 427
Votes cast 425
Style of Ascent
Lead
Followed
Soloed
Toproped
Alt Leads
Bouldered
Not Set
Onsighted
Repeated
Flashed (β)
Dogged
DNF
Redpoint
Ground Up
Not Set
Route of Interest

Green Gut

Grade: HS 4a ***
(Froggatt Edge)