UKC

Restricted Access

There are frequently problems with car crime in the Stanage area. DO NOT LEAVE ANY VALUABLES ON DISPLAY IN CARS OR MINIBUSES.

Camper vans are becoming an issue with local residents and farmers as their concerns over human waste (and contamination of water supplies) increase with the number of vans overnighting in the various parking areas and laybys there. Please respect this incredible area and the people living wihin it by not overnighting in campervans at Stanage - a number of formal campsites are available locally including North Lees campsite

 

Access restrictions under CRoW  sometimes apply to areas north of the causeway, these vary each year - see signing at access points, or check the PDNP website for closure dates.

2023 published closure dates are: - August 29th - 31st; September 1st, 4th-8th, 11th - 15th, 18th - 22nd and 25th - 29th; October 2nd - 5th

 

These closures do not affect any public rights of way or concessionary paths which remain open.

Seasonal Restrictions

Dates: 1 May to 30 July

Reason: Nesting Birds

Ring ouzels are nesting on Stanage, Burbage and Bamford this year. The nest sites change quickly and frequently as ring ouzels often have several broods each year with different nest sites for each brood. On site signage will be up around any of the nest sites where climbing may impact on the birds and this is always up to date and accurate.

Stanage from High Neb westwards (and Bamford Edge, Moscar, Derwent & Hallam Moors) has a permenant dog restriction and in addition can be for land management reasons, as allowed under the CRoW Act (which allows the landowner to restrict access for up to 28 days per year). Full details of any restrictions and the areas affected can be found by searching for 'Stanage' on the Natural England open access maps website and scrolling to the restrictions section at the bottom of the page. 

These closures do not affect public rights of way (which remain open) or the concessionary paths to Stanage.

16m.

Rockfax Description
A bit of proper class - how good is your rope-work? Start up the crack in the arete then head left to out-flank the first overhang. Move up to a deep break then make an awkward traverse back to the right to gain the ledge round the corner. Finish direct. © Rockfax

FA. Maurice Linnel early 1930s.

Ticklists

Top 23 UKC Climbed Climbs , ROCKFAX Eastern Grit (2006): Top 500 , Stanage Routes BMC Graded List , Steve Ashton's 100 Classic Gritstone Climbs , Eastern Grit Jamming , 100 Stanage stars , 29 Routes, 87 Stars, 1 E Point each , Stanage 100 VD - VS , Peak Gritstone S-HVS **+ , Northern (Yorkshire !?) Climbs for a Southerner , Chatsworth to Bamford , CUMC Ticklist , Peak district Road To Ruins Diff-VS , 3 Star Stanage , Stanage Wishlist , Definitive *** Peak Grit , The Ultimate SUMC Ticklist , Eastern Grit 2 star plus (HVS/VS/HS) , Consolidation and developmental path to VS , Stanage 'The Popular End, Orange Spot Heaven'. 12 routes, 36 stars! , The Gritlist , Severe Stanage , ROCKFAX Eastern Grit TOP 500: S and VS , Wired Peak District Grit Graded List , Wired Peak District Grit (2020) *** List , 50 more great HS routes , Every 3 Starred HVS and Under Gritstone , Ultimate List of Peak District Crack Climbs , LMC Lady Crushers 3* Extravaganza , Eastern Grit Wishlist , Eastern Grit 2015 - Top 500 HS , Top 20 UKC Gritstone Climbs , Climber's Club Jamfest List Meet , Peaky , 2022 Rockfax Eastern Grit Graded List , Essential grit ticks for the aspiring trad leader , 28 3 Stars For 28 In The Peak , Stanage Ticklist , Row & Tom's Stanage HS Challenge , Stanage HS Challenge , Stanage 1956

Feedback

User Date Notes
ViolentSciolist 15 Jul, 2022 Show βeta
βeta: Grab the corner of the arete with your right hand and step into a squat on the smear with your right foot. I have tiny hands. No fist jam needed.
Show beta
βeta: Grab the corner of the arete with your right hand and step into a squat on the smear with your right foot. I have tiny hands. No fist jam needed.
BertieP42 17 Apr, 2020 Show βeta
βeta: Scary rockover with fist jam in horizontal crack
Show beta
βeta: Scary rockover with fist jam in horizontal crack
Jon Greengrass 27 Jan, 2020 Show βeta
βeta: Unless you've got enormous fists the traverse back right onto the front face is not easy, Beta alert! there is a good crimp deep in the break otherwise try hugging the blunt arete.
Show beta
βeta: Unless you've got enormous fists the traverse back right onto the front face is not easy, Beta alert! there is a good crimp deep in the break otherwise try hugging the blunt arete.
Fidget 3 Apr, 2006 Show βeta
βeta: Amazing route! Totally deserving of it's 3 stars and not a bit of polish anywhere (although maybe I've just jinxed it by saying that). Found the horizontal break a bit small for fists and large for a hand jam, which led to an interesting belly flop onto the ledge. The finish isn't a walk in the park either when it's blowing a gale, which adds to the excitement!
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Amazing route! Totally deserving of it's 3 stars and not a bit of polish anywhere (although maybe I've just jinxed it by saying that). Found the horizontal break a bit small for fists and large for a hand jam, which led to an interesting belly flop onto the ledge. The finish isn't a walk in the park either when it's blowing a gale, which adds to the excitement!
Richard Hession 10 Feb, 2005 Show βeta
βeta: Thought it was pretty easy compared to some other HS's I've done before. The traverse right was great fun especially when you find the crimp near the back of the break! :) HS 4b is about right
Show beta
βeta: Thought it was pretty easy compared to some other HS's I've done before. The traverse right was great fun especially when you find the crimp near the back of the break! :) HS 4b is about right
Si dH 22 Jul, 2004 Show βeta
βeta: Great route altho harder than all the other classic HSs at Stanage Pop eg. april + christmas cracks or RHRHBD IMHO - not that Im saying it should be upgraded, its about right. The traverse back across was ok using a crimp deep in the break, as for fist-jams.... Id need a break at least 1.5 times that size to jam my fist in it, nearer to a hand-jam!
Show beta
βeta: Great route altho harder than all the other classic HSs at Stanage Pop eg. april + christmas cracks or RHRHBD IMHO - not that Im saying it should be upgraded, its about right. The traverse back across was ok using a crimp deep in the break, as for fist-jams.... Id need a break at least 1.5 times that size to jam my fist in it, nearer to a hand-jam!
Simon Caldwell 7 Jun, 2004 Show βeta
βeta: The direct variant Manchester United HVS 5b is also well worth doing - much easier for the tall :)
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: The direct variant Manchester United HVS 5b is also well worth doing - much easier for the tall :)
leon 13 Apr, 2004 Show βeta
βeta: this has got to be one of the best grit routes i've done. brilliant moves on positive holds
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: this has got to be one of the best grit routes i've done. brilliant moves on positive holds
Stefan Kruger 5 Apr, 2002 Show βeta
βeta: Budding leaders will probably find this hard for the grade.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Budding leaders will probably find this hard for the grade.

Logged Ascents

5700 users have logged this

Guidebooks for Stanage Popular

Not all climbs appear in all guidebooks 498 users have this on their wishlist

Please Login to view more details on the logged ascents

Voting
High VS
Mid VS
Low VS
High HS
Mid HS
Low HS
High S
Mid S
Low S
Votes cast 482
High 4c
Mid 4c
Low 4c
High 4b
Mid 4b
Low 4b
High 4a
Mid 4a
Low 4a
Votes cast 451
Votes cast 449
Style of Ascent
Lead
Followed
Soloed
Toproped
Alt Leads
Bouldered
Not Set
Onsighted
Repeated
Flashed (β)
Dogged
DNF
Redpoint
Ground Up
Not Set
Route of Interest
April Crack

Grade: HS 4b ***
(Stanage Popular)

Loading Notifications...