20m.
Rockfax Description
Climb through the overhangs to a ledge then, from the left-hand end of this (low runners) step awkwardly up and left (much harder for the short who might claim an E2 5c) to reach a sloping ledge on Mississippi Variant. Finish up this. © Rockfax
FA. Bill Birch 1968.
Ticklists
ROCKFAX Eastern Grit (2006): Top 500 , Top 20 ticked Stanage starred E1s , Stanage Popular , Wired Peak District Grit Graded List , 2022 Rockfax Eastern Grit Graded List , Eastern Grit E1s , Eastern Grit 2015 - Top 500 E1
Feedback
| User | Date | Notes | ||
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| John Cuthbert | 26 Jul |
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βeta: Second time round with a 16 year break...but feeling no less challenging. As other have remarked, this is a very high quality variant with a bit of everything. Not a good one to do on a greasy day (the reachy crimps are not both reachy and v. crimpy), especially since the gear slot below is getting a little blown out. 3 stars for me.. | ||
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βeta: Second time round with a 16 year break...but feeling no less challenging. As other have remarked, this is a very high quality variant with a bit of everything. Not a good one to do on a greasy day (the reachy crimps are not both reachy and v. crimpy), especially since the gear slot below is getting a little blown out. 3 stars for me.. |
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| isandyharper | 20 Jul |
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βeta: Well protected, superb climbing. Just a big reach required on the crux. | ||
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βeta: Well protected, superb climbing. Just a big reach required on the crux. |
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| Roxyclimbs | 1 Jun |
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βeta: Excellent climb but the moves did feel spicy at 5'6", had to use a tiny crimp to the left, and high foot to rock over and just about managed to get a few fingers on the sloper, followed by a nervous match with gear at the feet at this point, amazing how different a climb can feel but it does go both ways, it’s the inflexible and short people I feel sorry for the most … | ||
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Show beta
βeta: Excellent climb but the moves did feel spicy at 5'6", had to use a tiny crimp to the left, and high foot to rock over and just about managed to get a few fingers on the sloper, followed by a nervous match with gear at the feet at this point, amazing how different a climb can feel but it does go both ways, it’s the inflexible and short people I feel sorry for the most … |
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| joemallia | 22 Nov, 2020 |
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βeta: Short guy's solution to the crux moves felt 5c-ish. | βeta? | |
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βeta: Short guy's solution to the crux moves felt 5c-ish. |
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| Graham Booth | 15 Jul, 2015 |
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βeta: Massive reach for me....just got the edge of a sloper and was a tenuous match! I'm taking the E2 | ||
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βeta: Massive reach for me....just got the edge of a sloper and was a tenuous match! I'm taking the E2 |
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| Pythonist | 7 Jul, 2006 |
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βeta: 5'9", but my comments are virtually the same as Glen's. Perfect gear, great crux, plus a good second crux (HVS) to keep you on your toes. Reasonable E1 5b, but should get another star. | βeta? | |
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Show beta
βeta: 5'9", but my comments are virtually the same as Glen's. Perfect gear, great crux, plus a good second crux (HVS) to keep you on your toes. Reasonable E1 5b, but should get another star. |
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| Glen | 17 Mar, 2006 |
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βeta: A really nice climb. I loved the transition from steep jugs to delicate reaches and back to steep jugs again. I thought fairly easy for E1 (since there's gear virtually in the crux), but I am 6' plus. | ||
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βeta: A really nice climb. I loved the transition from steep jugs to delicate reaches and back to steep jugs again. I thought fairly easy for E1 (since there's gear virtually in the crux), but I am 6' plus. |
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| Ram MkiV | 21 Jan, 2006 |
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βeta: no way is this artificial and/or pointless. Only as much as most grit routes anyway. similar to Reeve I'm just under 5'10" and the move was right on the limit of my reach and felt hard 5b/ easy 5c ish really. Good gear, good route. My mate's smaller and he did the move on the little little pockets and high feet - so it is possible but obviously harder. | βeta? | |
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Show beta
βeta: no way is this artificial and/or pointless. Only as much as most grit routes anyway. similar to Reeve I'm just under 5'10" and the move was right on the limit of my reach and felt hard 5b/ easy 5c ish really. Good gear, good route. My mate's smaller and he did the move on the little little pockets and high feet - so it is possible but obviously harder. |
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| Si dH | 22 Sep, 2005 |
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βeta: Well I thought it was really good, not really artificial, I reckon it makes more sense than starting up the VS and the climbing was really good. Softish for E1 (at 5ft11) but fair at 5b I thought. | βeta? | |
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βeta: Well I thought it was really good, not really artificial, I reckon it makes more sense than starting up the VS and the climbing was really good. Softish for E1 (at 5ft11) but fair at 5b I thought. |
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| fenclimb | 22 Sep, 2005 |
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βeta: Felt quite an artifical line and a bit pointless, would say E1 for the short HVS for the tall | βeta? | |
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βeta: Felt quite an artifical line and a bit pointless, would say E1 for the short HVS for the tall |
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| leon | 6 Aug, 2005 |
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βeta: i think this is a 3 star route. good gear all the way and every move makes you think. plus after you do the e1 5b bit you get to join the hvs 5a at it's crux -double trouble for your money! awesome. | βeta? | |
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Show beta
βeta: i think this is a 3 star route. good gear all the way and every move makes you think. plus after you do the e1 5b bit you get to join the hvs 5a at it's crux -double trouble for your money! awesome. |
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| Sazzle | 10 Jun, 2005 |
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βeta: I had a go last night, and had no problems getting to the crux - then stood around for ages trying to get up. With feet as high as possible and on full stretch, working fingers up the wall, I was still an inch short. Even on a top rope (had to retrieve gear anyway) at 5' 6" it just isn't possible. Not a question of increasing to E2 5c, either you can reach it or you can't. | βeta? | |
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βeta: I had a go last night, and had no problems getting to the crux - then stood around for ages trying to get up. With feet as high as possible and on full stretch, working fingers up the wall, I was still an inch short. Even on a top rope (had to retrieve gear anyway) at 5' 6" it just isn't possible. Not a question of increasing to E2 5c, either you can reach it or you can't. |
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| Andy Reeve | 22 Mar, 2005 |
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βeta: About 5'10 and was at pretty much the limit of my reach. Think the ability to jump would be more useful than footwork if you're much shorter! | βeta? | |
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βeta: About 5'10 and was at pretty much the limit of my reach. Think the ability to jump would be more useful than footwork if you're much shorter! |
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| Jon Greengrass | 17 Sep, 2004 |
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βeta: Conditions dependent, I blew the onsight tow years ago, testing the spectacular but safe fall, making the crucial reach to slopers on a hot "sticky" summers day. Two days ago at 14 C with a good wind blowing it felt fine. Agreed you'd have to have your footwork sorted to get this done if you're much below 6 foot tall. best route on the buttress. | βeta? | |
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Show beta
βeta: Conditions dependent, I blew the onsight tow years ago, testing the spectacular but safe fall, making the crucial reach to slopers on a hot "sticky" summers day. Two days ago at 14 C with a good wind blowing it felt fine. Agreed you'd have to have your footwork sorted to get this done if you're much below 6 foot tall. best route on the buttress. |
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| geoffgo21 | 24 Oct, 2003 |
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βeta: You say E2 if you are short. I think HVS if you are tall, which I am! | βeta? | |
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βeta: You say E2 if you are short. I think HVS if you are tall, which I am! |
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Route of Interest
Todycade
Grade: E1 5a ***
(Froggatt Edge)