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20m.

Rockfax Description
Climb through the overhangs to a ledge then, from the left-hand end of this (low runners) step awkwardly up and left (much harder for the short who might claim an E2 5c) to reach a sloping ledge on Mississippi Variant. Finish up this. © Rockfax

FA. Bill Birch 1968.

Ticklists

ROCKFAX Eastern Grit (2006): Top 500, Top 20 ticked Stanage starred E1s, Stanage Popular, Peak District Grit Graded List

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User Date Notes
Pythonist 7 Jul, 2006 Show βeta
βeta: 5'9", but my comments are virtually the same as Glen's. Perfect gear, great crux, plus a good second crux (HVS) to keep you on your toes. Reasonable E1 5b, but should get another star.
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βeta: 5'9", but my comments are virtually the same as Glen's. Perfect gear, great crux, plus a good second crux (HVS) to keep you on your toes. Reasonable E1 5b, but should get another star.
Glen 17 Mar, 2006 Show βeta
βeta: A really nice climb. I loved the transition from steep jugs to delicate reaches and back to steep jugs again. I thought fairly easy for E1 (since there's gear virtually in the crux), but I am 6' plus.
βeta?
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βeta: A really nice climb. I loved the transition from steep jugs to delicate reaches and back to steep jugs again. I thought fairly easy for E1 (since there's gear virtually in the crux), but I am 6' plus.
Ram MkiV 21 Jan, 2006 Show βeta
βeta: no way is this artificial and/or pointless. Only as much as most grit routes anyway. similar to Reeve I'm just under 5'10" and the move was right on the limit of my reach and felt hard 5b/ easy 5c ish really. Good gear, good route. My mate's smaller and he did the move on the little little pockets and high feet - so it is possible but obviously harder.
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βeta: no way is this artificial and/or pointless. Only as much as most grit routes anyway. similar to Reeve I'm just under 5'10" and the move was right on the limit of my reach and felt hard 5b/ easy 5c ish really. Good gear, good route. My mate's smaller and he did the move on the little little pockets and high feet - so it is possible but obviously harder.
Si dH 22 Sep, 2005 Show βeta
βeta: Well I thought it was really good, not really artificial, I reckon it makes more sense than starting up the VS and the climbing was really good. Softish for E1 (at 5ft11) but fair at 5b I thought.
βeta?
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βeta: Well I thought it was really good, not really artificial, I reckon it makes more sense than starting up the VS and the climbing was really good. Softish for E1 (at 5ft11) but fair at 5b I thought.
fenclimb 22 Sep, 2005 Show βeta
βeta: Felt quite an artifical line and a bit pointless, would say E1 for the short HVS for the tall
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βeta: Felt quite an artifical line and a bit pointless, would say E1 for the short HVS for the tall
leon 6 Aug, 2005 Show βeta
βeta: i think this is a 3 star route. good gear all the way and every move makes you think. plus after you do the e1 5b bit you get to join the hvs 5a at it's crux -double trouble for your money! awesome.
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βeta: i think this is a 3 star route. good gear all the way and every move makes you think. plus after you do the e1 5b bit you get to join the hvs 5a at it's crux -double trouble for your money! awesome.
Sazzle 10 Jun, 2005 Show βeta
βeta: I had a go last night, and had no problems getting to the crux - then stood around for ages trying to get up. With feet as high as possible and on full stretch, working fingers up the wall, I was still an inch short. Even on a top rope (had to retrieve gear anyway) at 5' 6" it just isn't possible. Not a question of increasing to E2 5c, either you can reach it or you can't.
βeta?
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βeta: I had a go last night, and had no problems getting to the crux - then stood around for ages trying to get up. With feet as high as possible and on full stretch, working fingers up the wall, I was still an inch short. Even on a top rope (had to retrieve gear anyway) at 5' 6" it just isn't possible. Not a question of increasing to E2 5c, either you can reach it or you can't.
Andy Reeve 22 Mar, 2005 Show βeta
βeta: About 5'10 and was at pretty much the limit of my reach. Think the ability to jump would be more useful than footwork if you're much shorter!
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βeta: About 5'10 and was at pretty much the limit of my reach. Think the ability to jump would be more useful than footwork if you're much shorter!
Jon Greengrass 17 Sep, 2004 Show βeta
βeta: Conditions dependent, I blew the onsight tow years ago, testing the spectacular but safe fall, making the crucial reach to slopers on a hot "sticky" summers day. Two days ago at 14 C with a good wind blowing it felt fine. Agreed you'd have to have your footwork sorted to get this done if you're much below 6 foot tall. best route on the buttress.
βeta?
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βeta: Conditions dependent, I blew the onsight tow years ago, testing the spectacular but safe fall, making the crucial reach to slopers on a hot "sticky" summers day. Two days ago at 14 C with a good wind blowing it felt fine. Agreed you'd have to have your footwork sorted to get this done if you're much below 6 foot tall. best route on the buttress.
geoffgo21 24 Oct, 2003 Show βeta
βeta: You say E2 if you are short. I think HVS if you are tall, which I am!
βeta?
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βeta: You say E2 if you are short. I think HVS if you are tall, which I am!

Logged Ascents

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Voting
High E2
Mid E2
Low E2
High E1
Mid E1
Low E1
High HVS
Mid HVS
Low HVS
Votes cast 145
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
High 5a
Mid 5a
Low 5a
Votes cast 138
Votes cast 133
Style of Ascent
Lead
Followed
Soloed
Toproped
Alt Leads
Not Set
Onsighted
Repeated
Dogged
Flashed (β)
DNF
Redpoint
Ground Up
Not Set
Route of Interest

Yew Tree Wall

Grade: E1 5c ***
(Dovedale)