UKC

18m.

Rockfax Description
A good route, again low in the grade though the start is quite bold. From a block (low cam) climb the wall using tiny layaways to a good horizontal slot. Continue up a short vertical crack then a wider one, trending right to the top by great climbing. © Rockfax

FA. Don Morrison early 1960s.

Ticklists

ROCKFAX Eastern Grit (2006): Top 500 , Stanage Routes BMC Graded List , Stanage E1 Challenge (1989 Guide) , Pete's 150 Peak Extremes , Top 20 ticked Stanage starred E1s , Stanage Popular , 2022 Rockfax Eastern Grit Graded List , Essential grit ticks for the aspiring trad leader

Feedback

User Date Notes
MNA123 24 May, 2007 Show βeta
βeta: Harder for the short, i seconded it and took a fall tryin to reach the brk. Found leaving the brk quite easy in comparisson, great route tho!
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Harder for the short, i seconded it and took a fall tryin to reach the brk. Found leaving the brk quite easy in comparisson, great route tho!
Pythonist 7 Jul, 2006 Show βeta
βeta: Not impressed. I would have to leave it at E1, but with the note that it's a damned easy one. The crux is low enough not to get scared about the (even) lower gear, and then it's all over. Can't see why this gets 2*, the same as M Variant Direct - it could lose one easily.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Not impressed. I would have to leave it at E1, but with the note that it's a damned easy one. The crux is low enough not to get scared about the (even) lower gear, and then it's all over. Can't see why this gets 2*, the same as M Variant Direct - it could lose one easily.
Ram MkiV 22 Apr, 2005 Show βeta
βeta: worth E1 - nice 5bish moves to reach and then leave friend slot
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: worth E1 - nice 5bish moves to reach and then leave friend slot
ericinbristol 24 Jun, 2004 Show βeta
βeta: Relax on that first bit and it really isn't that hard technically, and as soon as you make yourself make the first moves, there's bomber gear.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Relax on that first bit and it really isn't that hard technically, and as soon as you make yourself make the first moves, there's bomber gear.
Nick Smith - Climbers 25 Jun, 2003 Show βeta
βeta: Scary! I didn't take enough gear, and had to really run out the top half of the route, which is supposed to be well-protected! :/
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Scary! I didn't take enough gear, and had to really run out the top half of the route, which is supposed to be well-protected! :/
SteveC 19 Jun, 2003 Show βeta
βeta: Brilliant route. One daunting move but after that it's thought-provoking, sustained but not hard (5a) and well-protected. 3 stars
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Brilliant route. One daunting move but after that it's thought-provoking, sustained but not hard (5a) and well-protected. 3 stars

Logged Ascents

953 users have logged this

Guidebooks for Stanage Popular

Not all climbs appear in all guidebooks 123 users have this on their wishlist

Please Login to view more details on the logged ascents

Voting
High E2
Mid E2
Low E2
High E1
Mid E1
Low E1
High HVS
Mid HVS
Low HVS
Votes cast 136
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
High 5a
Mid 5a
Low 5a
Votes cast 131
Votes cast 128
Style of Ascent
Lead
Followed
Soloed
Toproped
Alt Leads
Not Set
Onsighted
Repeated
Flashed (β)
Dogged
DNF
Redpoint
Ground Up
Not Set
Route of Interest
Dead Banana Crack

Grade: E1 5c ***
(Stoney Middleton)

Loading Notifications...