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18m.

Rockfax Description
A fine and varied route. Climb an open groove to the left-hand side of a narrow roof, fiddle gear in here then step left and follow the delicate groove to ledges. Finish up the wall above. © Rockfax

FA. Don Morrison et al early 1960s.

Ticklists

ROCKFAX Eastern Grit (2006): Top 500, Stanage Routes BMC Graded List, Peak Gritstone S-HVS **+, Eastern Grit 2 star plus (HVS/VS/HS), Stanage Popular, The Gritlist

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User Date Notes
Monk 26 Jun, 2006 Show βeta
βeta: I found that it was hard to get any bomber gear in due to all the rusty wires. I used a 0.5 cam which was a bit under cammed on 2 of the cams and a size 1 next to it. I think it was ok but not as bomber as I would like. I also found that the moves up to the ledge were fairly thin but it was a hot day. Good route.
 
Show beta
βeta: I found that it was hard to get any bomber gear in due to all the rusty wires. I used a 0.5 cam which was a bit under cammed on 2 of the cams and a size 1 next to it. I think it was ok but not as bomber as I would like. I also found that the moves up to the ledge were fairly thin but it was a hot day. Good route.
leon 6 May, 2006 Show βeta
βeta: 5a(?) moves to establish yourself in the groove and then 5b up the delicate groove. very well protected but hard finish.
 
Show beta
βeta: 5a(?) moves to establish yourself in the groove and then 5b up the delicate groove. very well protected but hard finish.
nick w 27 Apr, 2005 Show βeta
βeta: did it two weeks ago ,pulled out one rusty wire and got a sma1l cam in lovely.1 star for aspect.
 
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βeta: did it two weeks ago ,pulled out one rusty wire and got a sma1l cam in lovely.1 star for aspect.
gooose 7 Aug, 2003 Show βeta
βeta: Getting a bit crowded in the crack below the crux with well-wedged nuts. Someone's been at them with a hack-saw leaving room for a 1-Friend only. Good fun tho.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Getting a bit crowded in the crack below the crux with well-wedged nuts. Someone's been at them with a hack-saw leaving room for a 1-Friend only. Good fun tho.
Nick Smith - Climbers 25 Jun, 2003 Show βeta
βeta: A great sequence of moves through the crux. A deep one-finger pocket may be of some assistance!
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: A great sequence of moves through the crux. A deep one-finger pocket may be of some assistance!
The Grist 19 Aug, 2002 Show βeta
βeta: A great rotue to break into the HVS grade. Good gear below the crux. Gain the big hold the agan perfect gear for the next move. Possibly harder for the short.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: A great rotue to break into the HVS grade. Good gear below the crux. Gain the big hold the agan perfect gear for the next move. Possibly harder for the short.

Logged Ascents

731 users have logged this
45 users have this on their wishlist
Voting
High E1
Mid E1
Low E1
High HVS
Mid HVS
Low HVS
High VS
Mid VS
Low VS
Votes cast 122
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
High 5a
Mid 5a
Low 5a
Votes cast 119
Votes cast 115
Style of Ascent
Lead
Followed
Soloed
Toproped
Alt Leads
Bouldered
Not Set
Onsighted
Repeated
Dogged
Flashed (β)
Redpoint
DNF
Ground Up
Not Set
Route of Interest

Tody's Wall

Grade: HVS 5a ***
(Froggatt Edge)