Rockfax Description
A fine and varied route. Climb an open groove to the left-hand side of a narrow roof, fiddle gear in here then step left and follow the delicate groove to ledges. Finish up the wall above. © Rockfax
FA. Don Morrison et al early 1960s.
Ticklists
ROCKFAX Eastern Grit (2006): Top 500 , Stanage Routes BMC Graded List , Peak Gritstone S-HVS **+ , Eastern Grit 2 star plus (HVS/VS/HS) , Stanage Popular , Severe Stanage , The Gritlist , Eastern Grit 2015 - Top 500 HVS , 2022 Rockfax Eastern Grit Graded List
Feedback
| User | Date | Notes | ||
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Monk | 26 Jun, 2006 |
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βeta: I found that it was hard to get any bomber gear in due to all the rusty wires. I used a 0.5 cam which was a bit under cammed on 2 of the cams and a size 1 next to it. I think it was ok but not as bomber as I would like. I also found that the moves up to the ledge were fairly thin but it was a hot day. Good route. | ||
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Show beta
βeta: I found that it was hard to get any bomber gear in due to all the rusty wires. I used a 0.5 cam which was a bit under cammed on 2 of the cams and a size 1 next to it. I think it was ok but not as bomber as I would like. I also found that the moves up to the ledge were fairly thin but it was a hot day. Good route. |
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| leon | 6 May, 2006 |
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βeta: 5a(?) moves to establish yourself in the groove and then 5b up the delicate groove. very well protected but hard finish. | ||
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Show beta
βeta: 5a(?) moves to establish yourself in the groove and then 5b up the delicate groove. very well protected but hard finish. |
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| nick w | 27 Apr, 2005 |
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βeta: did it two weeks ago ,pulled out one rusty wire and got a sma1l cam in lovely.1 star for aspect. | ||
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βeta: did it two weeks ago ,pulled out one rusty wire and got a sma1l cam in lovely.1 star for aspect. |
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| gooose | 7 Aug, 2003 |
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βeta: Getting a bit crowded in the crack below the crux with well-wedged nuts. Someone's been at them with a hack-saw leaving room for a 1-Friend only. Good fun tho. | βeta? | |
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Show beta
βeta: Getting a bit crowded in the crack below the crux with well-wedged nuts. Someone's been at them with a hack-saw leaving room for a 1-Friend only. Good fun tho. |
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| Nick Smith - Climbers | 25 Jun, 2003 |
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βeta: A great sequence of moves through the crux. A deep one-finger pocket may be of some assistance! | βeta? | |
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Show beta
βeta: A great sequence of moves through the crux. A deep one-finger pocket may be of some assistance! |
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| The Grist | 19 Aug, 2002 |
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βeta: A great rotue to break into the HVS grade. Good gear below the crux. Gain the big hold the agan perfect gear for the next move. Possibly harder for the short. | βeta? | |
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Show beta
βeta: A great rotue to break into the HVS grade. Good gear below the crux. Gain the big hold the agan perfect gear for the next move. Possibly harder for the short. |
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Twisted Smile
Grade: HVS 5a ***
(Kinder Northern Edges)