UKC

Restricted Access

There are frequently problems with car crime in the Stanage area. DO NOT LEAVE ANY VALUABLES ON DISPLAY IN CARS OR MINIBUSES.

Camper vans are becoming an issue with local residents and farmers as their concerns over human waste (and contamination of water supplies) increase with the number of vans overnighting in the various parking areas and laybys there. Please respect this incredible area and the people living wihin it by not overnighting in campervans at Stanage - a number of formal campsites are available locally including North Lees campsite

 

Access restrictions under CRoW  sometimes apply to areas north of the causeway, these vary each year - see signing at access points, or check the PDNP website for closure dates.

2023 published closure dates are: - August 29th - 31st; September 1st, 4th-8th, 11th - 15th, 18th - 22nd and 25th - 29th; October 2nd - 5th

 

These closures do not affect any public rights of way or concessionary paths which remain open.

Seasonal Restrictions

Dates: 1 May to 30 July

Reason: Nesting Birds

Ring ouzels are nesting on Stanage, Burbage and Bamford this year. The nest sites change quickly and frequently as ring ouzels often have several broods each year with different nest sites for each brood. On site signage will be up around any of the nest sites where climbing may impact on the birds and this is always up to date and accurate.

Stanage from High Neb westwards (and Bamford Edge, Moscar, Derwent & Hallam Moors) has a permenant dog restriction and in addition can be for land management reasons, as allowed under the CRoW Act (which allows the landowner to restrict access for up to 28 days per year). Full details of any restrictions and the areas affected can be found by searching for 'Stanage' on the Natural England open access maps website and scrolling to the restrictions section at the bottom of the page. 

These closures do not affect public rights of way (which remain open) or the concessionary paths to Stanage.

18m.

Rockfax Description
Climb the crack in the groove to the roof, then move out right awkwardly to a ledge on the arete. From the bigger ledge above, ascend the slabby wall left of the cave. © Rockfax

FA. Eric Byne early 1930s.

Ticklists

ROCKFAX Eastern Grit (2006): Top 500 , Stanage Routes BMC Graded List , 100 Stanage stars , Stanage 100 VD - VS , Stanage Starred VDiffs , 50 Stars in 20 Routes at Stanage Popular , Stanage Popular Greens , Stanage Solo , Level 1 Peak Trad Routes , Stanage green spot starters , 2022 Rockfax Eastern Grit Graded List , Stanage Green Spot Challenge , Stanage 1956

Feedback

User Date Notes
clecoeur 26 Feb, 2023 Show βeta
βeta: Nice start but difficult to protect after
Show beta
βeta: Nice start but difficult to protect after
Nick Smith - Climbers 15 Aug, 2002 Show βeta
βeta: A very pleasant climb on large, positive holds.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: A very pleasant climb on large, positive holds.

Logged Ascents

1398 users have logged this

Guidebooks for Stanage Popular

Not all climbs appear in all guidebooks 241 users have this on their wishlist

Please Login to view more details on the logged ascents

Voting
High S
Mid S
Low S
High HVD
Mid HVD
Low HVD
High VD
Mid VD
Low VD
Votes cast 124
High 4b
Mid 4b
Low 4b
High 4a
Mid 4a
Low 4a
High 3c
Mid 3c
Low 3c
Votes cast 23
Votes cast 115
Style of Ascent
Lead
Followed
Soloed
Toproped
Alt Leads
Not Set
Onsighted
Repeated
Flashed (β)
Dogged
Redpoint
DNF
Not Set
Route of Interest
Central Buttress

Grade: HVD 3c ***
(Black Rocks)

Loading Notifications...