UKC

Restricted Access

There are frequently problems with car crime in the Stanage area. DO NOT LEAVE ANY VALUABLES ON DISPLAY IN CARS OR MINIBUSES.

Camper vans are becoming an issue with local residents and farmers as their concerns over human waste (and contamination of water supplies) increase with the number of vans overnighting in the various parking areas and laybys there. Please respect this incredible area and the people living wihin it by not overnighting in campervans at Stanage - a number of formal campsites are available locally including North Lees campsite

 

Access restrictions under CRoW  sometimes apply to areas north of the causeway, these vary each year - see signing at access points, or check the PDNP website for closure dates.

2023 published closure dates are: - August 29th - 31st; September 1st, 4th-8th, 11th - 15th, 18th - 22nd and 25th - 29th; October 2nd - 5th

 

These closures do not affect any public rights of way or concessionary paths which remain open.

Seasonal Restrictions

Dates: 1 May to 30 July

Reason: Nesting Birds

Ring ouzels are nesting on Stanage, Burbage and Bamford this year. The nest sites change quickly and frequently as ring ouzels often have several broods each year with different nest sites for each brood. On site signage will be up around any of the nest sites where climbing may impact on the birds and this is always up to date and accurate.

Stanage from High Neb westwards (and Bamford Edge, Moscar, Derwent & Hallam Moors) has a permenant dog restriction and in addition can be for land management reasons, as allowed under the CRoW Act (which allows the landowner to restrict access for up to 28 days per year). Full details of any restrictions and the areas affected can be found by searching for 'Stanage' on the Natural England open access maps website and scrolling to the restrictions section at the bottom of the page. 

These closures do not affect public rights of way (which remain open) or the concessionary paths to Stanage.

22m.

Rockfax Description
A great route up the wide crack splitting the centre of the face. Low in the grade but quite intimidating. Climb to the large overhang and shuffle out right to reach a small ledge below the main crack. Follow this with wide manoeuvres and big gear. © Rockfax

FA. Cyril Ward 1922. Also known as 'Button Hook'..

Ticklists

ROCKFAX Eastern Grit: Top 50 , Connoisseur's Classic Rock , ROCKFAX Eastern Grit (2006): Top 500 , Classic Rock Climbs of Great Britain by Bill Birkett , Stanage Routes BMC Graded List , Steve Ashton's 100 Classic Gritstone Climbs , Eastern Grit Jamming , 100 Stanage stars , 29 Routes, 87 Stars, 1 E Point each , Stanage 100 VD - VS , World Graded List , Peak Gritstone S-HVS **+ , Northern (Yorkshire !?) Climbs for a Southerner , Chatsworth to Bamford , Stanage for Crack Apprentices , 50 of the Best , 50 Stars in 20 Routes at Stanage Popular , WideBoyz Crack School , Peak district Road To Ruins Diff-VS , The best the UK has to offer for mere mortals (apart from the lakes cos its always wet) , 3 Star Stanage , Stanage Wishlist , Definitive *** Peak Grit , Eastern Grit 2 star plus (HVS/VS/HS) , Rockfax Peak Gritstone East (2001) Top 50 , ROCKFAX Eastern Grit: Top 50 - First ten , Adele & Dave , Definitive Eastern Grit top 50- 2001, 2006 and 2015 editions , Stanage 'The Popular End, Orange Spot Heaven'. 12 routes, 36 stars! , The Gritlist , Severe Stanage , ROCKFAX Eastern Grit TOP 500: S and VS , Stanage Routes - Epic Crackathon , Wired Peak District Grit Graded List , Wired Peak District Grit (2020) *** List , 30 Stars at Stanage , Every 3 Starred HVS and Under Gritstone , The Alf Bridge Challenge , LMC Lady Crushers 3* Extravaganza , Eastern Grit Wishlist , Eastern Grit 2015 - Top 500 HS , 100 Best Routes on Grit , Climber's Club Jamfest List Meet , Peaky , 2022 Rockfax Eastern Grit Graded List , 28 3 Stars For 28 In The Peak , ROCKFAX TOP 50s upto e3 , MUMC 2023 Fundraiser Routes , Row & Tom's Stanage HS Challenge , Stanage HS Challenge , Stanage - all the routes on Stanage in the 1964 Sheffield-Stanage area guidebook , Stanage 1956 , Stanage - not yet climbed - VD - VS

Feedback

User Date Notes
hoppie2000 27 Apr Show βeta
βeta: First HS onsight was a thrilling, intimidating and exhilarating introduction to the grade! Initially seemed too bold until I found a perfect cam slot below the roof. A good route for chicken winging and body positioning.
Show beta
βeta: First HS onsight was a thrilling, intimidating and exhilarating introduction to the grade! Initially seemed too bold until I found a perfect cam slot below the roof. A good route for chicken winging and body positioning.
Butty 19 Sep, 2021 Show βeta
βeta: Nice route, N⁰ 6 dragon cam was very useful for the crack.
Show beta
βeta: Nice route, N⁰ 6 dragon cam was very useful for the crack.
FelixCurrell 18 Jun, 2021 Show βeta
βeta: Great climb, useful if you have big gear, ie. large cams and hexes
Show beta
βeta: Great climb, useful if you have big gear, ie. large cams and hexes
ulastopka 15 May, 2020 Show βeta
βeta: Start of the route was nice but almost crawled to get to the platform right before the crack started. Lots of hand and legs jamming.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Start of the route was nice but almost crawled to get to the platform right before the crack started. Lots of hand and legs jamming.
Fidget 2 Apr, 2007 Show βeta
βeta: I did this with all the right gear, so placed plenty of it. For those of you who think it's less than a Severe - don't forget it's one of the longest routes on Stanage (and in the Peak?) and may be quite intimidating for an HS leader, which all adds to the adjectival grade. (If anyone does feel intimidated - I found I got more and more into it the higher I got, good route.)
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: I did this with all the right gear, so placed plenty of it. For those of you who think it's less than a Severe - don't forget it's one of the longest routes on Stanage (and in the Peak?) and may be quite intimidating for an HS leader, which all adds to the adjectival grade. (If anyone does feel intimidated - I found I got more and more into it the higher I got, good route.)
NickST 3 Sep, 2006 Show βeta
βeta: Great route! There's plenty of small protection to be placed above the roof in the horizontal breaks if you haven't got any "big guns" left. Also a superb sling placement around half height.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Great route! There's plenty of small protection to be placed above the roof in the horizontal breaks if you haven't got any "big guns" left. Also a superb sling placement around half height.
chrisclimber_1986 11 May, 2006 Show βeta
βeta: did this route in the blazing sun, lovely weather though made it harder for myself by not taking enough long runners- quickdraws are just to short because there is plenty of wire protection buts its further back in the large crack, also the polished holds were quite tricky with no friction and sweating hands, brilliant route if you get it right
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: did this route in the blazing sun, lovely weather though made it harder for myself by not taking enough long runners- quickdraws are just to short because there is plenty of wire protection buts its further back in the large crack, also the polished holds were quite tricky with no friction and sweating hands, brilliant route if you get it right
Hodge 19 Jul, 2005 Show βeta
βeta: Agree with earlier comments. Saved my 'big guns' 8 & 9 rockcentrics till the point I didn't need them. There is protection aplenty with wires in the breaks. I had a moderate run at the top but the holds were very positive at that point. Anyway, technicalities aside it's a superb and varied route.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Agree with earlier comments. Saved my 'big guns' 8 & 9 rockcentrics till the point I didn't need them. There is protection aplenty with wires in the breaks. I had a moderate run at the top but the holds were very positive at that point. Anyway, technicalities aside it's a superb and varied route.
Monk 26 Jul, 2004 Show βeta
βeta: I don't own any massive gear but managed to protect this route (every 3 metres or so anyway) with small gear in the horizontal breaks and a sling. Certainly run out enough to make it a memorable route but I don't think you would deck at any point if you fell. With massive cams this would be a walk in the park.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: I don't own any massive gear but managed to protect this route (every 3 metres or so anyway) with small gear in the horizontal breaks and a sling. Certainly run out enough to make it a memorable route but I don't think you would deck at any point if you fell. With massive cams this would be a walk in the park.
Si dH 22 Jul, 2004 Show βeta
βeta: Definitely not VDiff, all the breaks are slopey and polished, moves are at least 4a, possibly 4b and quite sustained. Also protection is poor unless you have several things of at leas friend 4 / rockcentric 9 size - i did take my whole rack and only got 3 things in after the overhang.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Definitely not VDiff, all the breaks are slopey and polished, moves are at least 4a, possibly 4b and quite sustained. Also protection is poor unless you have several things of at leas friend 4 / rockcentric 9 size - i did take my whole rack and only got 3 things in after the overhang.
Jon Greengrass 10 Jul, 2003 Show βeta
βeta: Seeing the size of the crack i didn't bother taking any nuts and protected the whole route with two big friends my largest tricam and a hex. it was very run out and definitely worth HS. a couple of friend 5s or some size 13 hexes are the sort of big guns required!!
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Seeing the size of the crack i didn't bother taking any nuts and protected the whole route with two big friends my largest tricam and a hex. it was very run out and definitely worth HS. a couple of friend 5s or some size 13 hexes are the sort of big guns required!!
Simon Caldwell 25 Mar, 2003 Show βeta
βeta: I agree with Charlie about not needing the 'big guns'. I saved all my large friends/hexes assuming from the description that I'd need them nearer the top and ended up not using most of them at all!
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: I agree with Charlie about not needing the 'big guns'. I saved all my large friends/hexes assuming from the description that I'd need them nearer the top and ended up not using most of them at all!

Logged Ascents

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Guidebooks for Stanage Popular

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Voting
High VS
Mid VS
Low VS
High HS
Mid HS
Low HS
High S
Mid S
Low S
Votes cast 357
High 4b
Mid 4b
Low 4b
High 4a
Mid 4a
Low 4a
High 3c
Mid 3c
Low 3c
Votes cast 336
Votes cast 328
Style of Ascent
Lead
Followed
Soloed
Toproped
Alt Leads
Not Set
Onsighted
Repeated
Flashed (β)
DNF
Redpoint
Dogged
Ground Up
Not Set
Route of Interest
Christmas Crack

Grade: HS 4a ***
(Stanage Popular)

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