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22m.

Rockfax Description
A great route up the wide crack splitting the centre of the face. Low in the grade but quite intimidating. Climb to the large overhang and shuffle out right to reach a small ledge below the main crack. Follow this with wide manoeuvres and big gear. © Rockfax

FA. Cyril Ward 1922. Also known as 'Button Hook'..

Ticklists

ROCKFAX Eastern Grit: Top 50, Connoisseur's Classic Rock, ROCKFAX Eastern Grit (2006): Top 500, Classic Rock Climbs of Great Britain by Bill Birkett, Stanage Routes BMC Graded List, Steve Ashton's 100 Classic Gritstone Climbs, Eastern Grit Jamming, 100 Stanage stars, 29 Routes, 87 Stars, 1 E Point each, Stanage 100 VD - VS, World Graded List, Peak Gritstone S-HVS **+, Northern (Yorkshire !?) Climbs for a Southerner, Chatsworth to Bamford, Stanage for Crack Apprentices, 50 of the Best, 50 Stars in 20 Routes at Stanage Popular, WideBoyz Crack School, Peak district Road To Ruins Diff-VS, The best the UK has to offer for mere mortals (apart from the lakes cos its always wet), 3 Star Stanage, Stanage Wishlist, Definitive *** Peak Grit, Eastern Grit 2 star plus (HVS/VS/HS), Rockfax Peak Gritstone East (2001) Top 50, ROCKFAX Eastern Grit: Top 50 - First ten, Definitive Eastern Grit top 50- 2001, 2006 and 2015 editions, Stanage 'The Popular End, Orange Spot Heaven'. 12 routes, 36 stars!, The Gritlist, ROCKFAX Eastern Grit TOP 500: S and HS, Stanage Routes - Epic Crackathon, Peak District Grit Graded List

Feedback

User Date Notes
ulastopka 15 May Show βeta
βeta: Start of the route was nice but almost crawled to get to the platform right before the crack started. Lots of hand and legs jamming.
 
Show beta
βeta: Start of the route was nice but almost crawled to get to the platform right before the crack started. Lots of hand and legs jamming.
Fidget 2 Apr, 2007 Show βeta
βeta: I did this with all the right gear, so placed plenty of it. For those of you who think it's less than a Severe - don't forget it's one of the longest routes on Stanage (and in the Peak?) and may be quite intimidating for an HS leader, which all adds to the adjectival grade. (If anyone does feel intimidated - I found I got more and more into it the higher I got, good route.)
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: I did this with all the right gear, so placed plenty of it. For those of you who think it's less than a Severe - don't forget it's one of the longest routes on Stanage (and in the Peak?) and may be quite intimidating for an HS leader, which all adds to the adjectival grade. (If anyone does feel intimidated - I found I got more and more into it the higher I got, good route.)
NickST 3 Sep, 2006 Show βeta
βeta: Great route! There's plenty of small protection to be placed above the roof in the horizontal breaks if you haven't got any "big guns" left. Also a superb sling placement around half height.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Great route! There's plenty of small protection to be placed above the roof in the horizontal breaks if you haven't got any "big guns" left. Also a superb sling placement around half height.
chrisclimber_1986 11 May, 2006 Show βeta
βeta: did this route in the blazing sun, lovely weather though made it harder for myself by not taking enough long runners- quickdraws are just to short because there is plenty of wire protection buts its further back in the large crack, also the polished holds were quite tricky with no friction and sweating hands, brilliant route if you get it right
βeta?
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βeta: did this route in the blazing sun, lovely weather though made it harder for myself by not taking enough long runners- quickdraws are just to short because there is plenty of wire protection buts its further back in the large crack, also the polished holds were quite tricky with no friction and sweating hands, brilliant route if you get it right
Fraser Hughes 1 Sep, 2005 Show βeta
βeta: Great climbing but felt like a Vdiff to me. If you are happy with slopping gritstone holds its probably only 3c. Passed the overhanged placed a couple of hexs and a friend 4, they got confided and ran out the last 8m.
βeta?
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βeta: Great climbing but felt like a Vdiff to me. If you are happy with slopping gritstone holds its probably only 3c. Passed the overhanged placed a couple of hexs and a friend 4, they got confided and ran out the last 8m.
Hodge 19 Jul, 2005 Show βeta
βeta: Agree with earlier comments. Saved my 'big guns' 8 & 9 rockcentrics till the point I didn't need them. There is protection aplenty with wires in the breaks. I had a moderate run at the top but the holds were very positive at that point. Anyway, technicalities aside it's a superb and varied route.
βeta?
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βeta: Agree with earlier comments. Saved my 'big guns' 8 & 9 rockcentrics till the point I didn't need them. There is protection aplenty with wires in the breaks. I had a moderate run at the top but the holds were very positive at that point. Anyway, technicalities aside it's a superb and varied route.
Monk 26 Jul, 2004 Show βeta
βeta: I don't own any massive gear but managed to protect this route (every 3 metres or so anyway) with small gear in the horizontal breaks and a sling. Certainly run out enough to make it a memorable route but I don't think you would deck at any point if you fell. With massive cams this would be a walk in the park.
βeta?
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βeta: I don't own any massive gear but managed to protect this route (every 3 metres or so anyway) with small gear in the horizontal breaks and a sling. Certainly run out enough to make it a memorable route but I don't think you would deck at any point if you fell. With massive cams this would be a walk in the park.
Si dH 22 Jul, 2004 Show βeta
βeta: Definitely not VDiff, all the breaks are slopey and polished, moves are at least 4a, possibly 4b and quite sustained. Also protection is poor unless you have several things of at leas friend 4 / rockcentric 9 size - i did take my whole rack and only got 3 things in after the overhang.
βeta?
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βeta: Definitely not VDiff, all the breaks are slopey and polished, moves are at least 4a, possibly 4b and quite sustained. Also protection is poor unless you have several things of at leas friend 4 / rockcentric 9 size - i did take my whole rack and only got 3 things in after the overhang.
Jon Greengrass 10 Jul, 2003 Show βeta
βeta: Seeing the size of the crack i didn't bother taking any nuts and protected the whole route with two big friends my largest tricam and a hex. it was very run out and definitely worth HS. a couple of friend 5s or some size 13 hexes are the sort of big guns required!!
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Seeing the size of the crack i didn't bother taking any nuts and protected the whole route with two big friends my largest tricam and a hex. it was very run out and definitely worth HS. a couple of friend 5s or some size 13 hexes are the sort of big guns required!!
Simon Caldwell 25 Mar, 2003 Show βeta
βeta: I agree with Charlie about not needing the 'big guns'. I saved all my large friends/hexes assuming from the description that I'd need them nearer the top and ended up not using most of them at all!
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: I agree with Charlie about not needing the 'big guns'. I saved all my large friends/hexes assuming from the description that I'd need them nearer the top and ended up not using most of them at all!

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High VS
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High S
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Votes cast 333
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Votes cast 315
Votes cast 307
Style of Ascent
Lead
Followed
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Toproped
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Not Set
Onsighted
Repeated
Flashed (β)
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Redpoint
Dogged
Ground Up
Not Set
Route of Interest

Paradise Wall

Grade: HS 4b ***
(Stanage Plantation)