Rockfax Description
A thin crack gains a committing traverse to finish steeply up the right-hand side of the arete. A dry-mouthed VS for many years! © Rockfax
FA. Peter Biven 1955.
Ticklists
ROCKFAX Eastern Grit (2006): Top 500 , Stanage Routes BMC Graded List , Pete's 150 Peak Extremes , Top 20 ticked Stanage starred E1s , Stanage Popular , Wired Peak District Grit Graded List , Peak District Gritstone: Graham Hoey's Best Routes for Moving on to E1 , 2022 Rockfax Eastern Grit Graded List , Essential grit ticks for the aspiring trad leader
Feedback
| User | Date | Notes | ||
|---|---|---|---|---|
| GeorgiePorgie1 | 18 Jul, 2020 |
Show βeta
βeta: Tech crux is getting to the traverse break for sure and you only have one number two (DMM) nut to protect you getting to the mid break. Between there and the traverse break you would risk a ground fall and obviously you are super exposed (i.e. soloing and don't even bother to waist energy trying to place a cam in the start of the traverse) on the traverse (albeit easy; agreed with 4c moves). Crux is very reachy for the short and the start requires some powerful and awkward laybacking with high right foot. The crack is of no use even for finger jamming. Left arete is defo not the crux as it's basically the finish of Mistella Right (s 4a). Finally, if you go on the right arete for the start you should downgrade to at least 5a if not high 4c. Scary climb, but really 3 stars for me. N.B. This is a short person's (5'5) beta. :D | ||
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Show beta
βeta: Tech crux is getting to the traverse break for sure and you only have one number two (DMM) nut to protect you getting to the mid break. Between there and the traverse break you would risk a ground fall and obviously you are super exposed (i.e. soloing and don't even bother to waist energy trying to place a cam in the start of the traverse) on the traverse (albeit easy; agreed with 4c moves). Crux is very reachy for the short and the start requires some powerful and awkward laybacking with high right foot. The crack is of no use even for finger jamming. Left arete is defo not the crux as it's basically the finish of Mistella Right (s 4a). Finally, if you go on the right arete for the start you should downgrade to at least 5a if not high 4c. Scary climb, but really 3 stars for me. N.B. This is a short person's (5'5) beta. :D |
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| Andy Reeve | 17 Aug, 2004 |
Show βeta
βeta: Didn't think the crux was the left arete! Start much harder then once on the traverse your away | βeta? | |
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Show beta
βeta: Didn't think the crux was the left arete! Start much harder then once on the traverse your away |
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| The Grist | 6 May, 2003 |
Show βeta
βeta: The traverse is unprotected but easy (4c max). The crux comes on the left arete. Fully protected to catch a fall. | βeta? | |
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Show beta
βeta: The traverse is unprotected but easy (4c max). The crux comes on the left arete. Fully protected to catch a fall. |
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Logged Ascents
Guidebooks for Stanage Popular
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Kelly's Overhang
Grade: E1 5c ***
(Stanage North)