UKC

16m.

Rockfax Description
A thin crack gains a committing traverse to finish steeply up the right-hand side of the arete. A dry-mouthed VS for many years! © Rockfax

FA. Peter Biven 1955.

Ticklists

ROCKFAX Eastern Grit (2006): Top 500, Stanage Routes BMC Graded List, Pete's 150 Peak Extremes, Top 20 ticked Stanage starred E1s, Stanage Popular, Peak District Grit Graded List, Peak District Gritstone: Graham Hoey's Best Routes for Moving on to E1

Feedback

User Date Notes
GeorgiePorgie1 18 Jul, 2020 Show βeta
βeta: Tech crux is getting to the traverse break for sure and you only have one number two (DMM) nut to protect you getting to the mid break. Between there and the traverse break you would risk a ground fall and obviously you are super exposed (i.e. soloing and don't even bother to waist energy trying to place a cam in the start of the traverse) on the traverse (albeit easy; agreed with 4c moves). Crux is very reachy for the short and the start requires some powerful and awkward laybacking with high right foot. The crack is of no use even for finger jamming. Left arete is defo not the crux as it's basically the finish of Mistella Right (s 4a). Finally, if you go on the right arete for the start you should downgrade to at least 5a if not high 4c. Scary climb, but really 3 stars for me. N.B. This is a short person's (5'5) beta. :D
 
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βeta: Tech crux is getting to the traverse break for sure and you only have one number two (DMM) nut to protect you getting to the mid break. Between there and the traverse break you would risk a ground fall and obviously you are super exposed (i.e. soloing and don't even bother to waist energy trying to place a cam in the start of the traverse) on the traverse (albeit easy; agreed with 4c moves). Crux is very reachy for the short and the start requires some powerful and awkward laybacking with high right foot. The crack is of no use even for finger jamming. Left arete is defo not the crux as it's basically the finish of Mistella Right (s 4a). Finally, if you go on the right arete for the start you should downgrade to at least 5a if not high 4c. Scary climb, but really 3 stars for me. N.B. This is a short person's (5'5) beta. :D
Andy Reeve 17 Aug, 2004 Show βeta
βeta: Didn't think the crux was the left arete! Start much harder then once on the traverse your away
βeta?
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βeta: Didn't think the crux was the left arete! Start much harder then once on the traverse your away
The Grist 6 May, 2003 Show βeta
βeta: The traverse is unprotected but easy (4c max). The crux comes on the left arete. Fully protected to catch a fall.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: The traverse is unprotected but easy (4c max). The crux comes on the left arete. Fully protected to catch a fall.

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High E2
Mid E2
Low E2
High E1
Mid E1
Low E1
High HVS
Mid HVS
Low HVS
Votes cast 86
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
High 5a
Mid 5a
Low 5a
Votes cast 84
Votes cast 80
Style of Ascent
Lead
Followed
Soloed
Toproped
Bouldered
Not Set
Onsighted
Repeated
Flashed (β)
Dogged
DNF
Ground Up
Redpoint
Not Set
Route of Interest

The Traverse

Grade: E1 5c ***
(Wildcat)
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