UKC

16m.

Rockfax Description
Powerful moves access the prominent niche at 4m (overhead gear). Continue up the flake of 'the flange' then the steep slab on rounded and sometimes green holds to a final short crack. © Rockfax

FA. Peter Biven 1956.

Ticklists

ROCKFAX Eastern Grit (2006): Top 500, Stanage Routes BMC Graded List, Peak Gritstone S-HVS **+, Peak Rock/7/8/Biven-Peck Partnership/1950's a Developing Decade, 'Soft' Peak HVSs., Eastern Grit 2 star plus (HVS/VS/HS), Ryan's Stanage Popular Right?

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User Date Notes
Jus 20 Jan, 2020 Show βeta
βeta: Bit necky/ slopey at the top if soloing
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Bit necky/ slopey at the top if soloing
Duz Walker 13 Sep, 2007 Show βeta
βeta: Pinged my only nut hanging lifting my foot hanging off the ledge. I can obviously only finger jam in desperation. Underrated route I reckon, fair at the grade.
βeta?
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βeta: Pinged my only nut hanging lifting my foot hanging off the ledge. I can obviously only finger jam in desperation. Underrated route I reckon, fair at the grade.
sheffieldchris 30 Oct, 2005 Show βeta
βeta: thought i was cruising on the start untill you try and get onto the small ledge above the overhang. Was forced to wear a helmet by partner on this climb and as my foot slipped and the rope flipped me head first and a nut pinged i was mighty glad i had, just stopped short of the deck but did bash the hell out of myself
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: thought i was cruising on the start untill you try and get onto the small ledge above the overhang. Was forced to wear a helmet by partner on this climb and as my foot slipped and the rope flipped me head first and a nut pinged i was mighty glad i had, just stopped short of the deck but did bash the hell out of myself
Neil Morbey 9 Nov, 2003 Show βeta
βeta: A tad artificial but a good start and good sloper finish with some longish reaches.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: A tad artificial but a good start and good sloper finish with some longish reaches.

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High E1
Mid E1
Low E1
High HVS
Mid HVS
Low HVS
High VS
Mid VS
Low VS
Votes cast 119
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
High 5a
Mid 5a
Low 5a
Votes cast 116
Votes cast 109
Style of Ascent
Lead
Followed
Soloed
Toproped
Alt Leads
Not Set
Onsighted
Repeated
Flashed (β)
Dogged
Redpoint
DNF
Ground Up
Not Set
Route of Interest

Birch Tree Wall - Variation Finish

Grade: HVS 5b ***
(Black Rocks)
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