Rockfax Description
One of Stanage's best VS climbs. From a boulder, pull up and left onto the slab, traverse left then move up and right to a ledge. Continuing up the centre of the slab trending slightly right. Well protected with enough cams, though it used to be very bold. © Rockfax
FA. Albert Hargreaves 1928.
Ticklists
ROCKFAX Eastern Grit: Top 50 , Classic Rock , The 100 Best UK VS routes? , Top 23 UKC Climbed Climbs , ROCKFAX Eastern Grit (2006): Top 500 , 14 In A Day , Stanage Routes BMC Graded List , Best slab climbs of the UK , Steve Ashton's 100 Classic Gritstone Climbs , Classic Rock Climbs In Northern England by Bill Birket , 100 Stanage stars , 29 Routes, 87 Stars, 1 E Point each , Stanage 100 VD - VS , Stanage VS Challenge (1989 Guide) , Darrencabowabo,s hit list , World Graded List , Peak Gritstone S-HVS **+ , Peak Rock/3/ A Decade of Expansion , Chatsworth to Bamford , 50 Stars in 20 Routes at Stanage Popular , MUMC Ticklist , The best the UK has to offer for mere mortals (apart from the lakes cos its always wet) , Rockfax Eastern Grit (2015) Top 50 , 3 Star Stanage , Stanage Wishlist , Definitive *** Peak Grit , The Original 'Classic Rock' List , Eastern Grit 2 star plus (HVS/VS/HS) , Stanage Popular , Adele & Dave , Definitive Eastern Grit top 50- 2001, 2006 and 2015 editions , Stanage 'The Popular End, Orange Spot Heaven'. 12 routes, 36 stars! , The Gritlist , Severe Stanage , Wired Peak District Grit Graded List , Wired Peak District Grit (2020) *** List , 30 Stars at Stanage , Every 3 Starred HVS and Under Gritstone , LD's next grit trip(s) , LMC Lady Crushers 3* Extravaganza , Eastern Grit Wishlist , Eastern Grit 2015 - Top 500 VS , 100 Best Routes on Grit , The Wishlist Challenge , 24 For 2024! , On Peak Rock , LSMC to do , Top 20 UKC Gritstone Climbs , Peaky , 2022 Rockfax Eastern Grit Graded List , Slab Dreams , Stanage Slab , Essential grit ticks for the aspiring trad leader , 28 3 Stars For 28 In The Peak , George is a real VS climber , ROCKFAX TOP 50s upto e3 , MUMC 2023 Fundraiser Routes , The Eal List , Pixies Lightweight Bowline CC - VS Challenge - Stanage , Top 25 routes , Stanage - all the routes on Stanage in the 1964 Sheffield-Stanage area guidebook , UKC Gritstone Top 20 Wishlist Climbs , Fav Climbs , Morgan's List , Stanage 1956 , Stanage - not yet climbed - VD - VS
Feedback
| User | Date | Notes | ||
|---|---|---|---|---|
| igm852 | 2 Aug |
Show βeta
βeta: Great lead from Steve, got me out of my comfort zone, loved it though! | βeta? | |
|
Show beta
βeta: Great lead from Steve, got me out of my comfort zone, loved it though! |
||||
| GaronSmith | 26 May, 2020 |
Show βeta
βeta: What a journey this one. | ||
|
Show beta
βeta: What a journey this one. |
||||
| JayW | 9 Mar, 2020 |
Show βeta
βeta: Fantastic, long, slopy, requiring good footwork and a couple of long reaches with some fairly run-out sections. Medium sized cams will help. | ||
|
Show beta
βeta: Fantastic, long, slopy, requiring good footwork and a couple of long reaches with some fairly run-out sections. Medium sized cams will help. |
||||
| emmaharrington | 23 Sep, 2019 |
Show βeta
βeta: Slopey, balancy and long describes this route well. Bring plenty of cams. | ||
|
Show beta
βeta: Slopey, balancy and long describes this route well. Bring plenty of cams. |
||||
| BobRobert | 6 May, 2019 |
Show βeta
βeta: Enjoyed it up until it started chucking down with rain and I started losing traction, I ran it out about 20 foot just to get off the thing. Used cams and a hex I believe. | ||
|
Show beta
βeta: Enjoyed it up until it started chucking down with rain and I started losing traction, I ran it out about 20 foot just to get off the thing. Used cams and a hex I believe. |
||||
| Paul Tomo | 8 Mar, 2007 |
Show βeta
βeta: This climb was my warm up for Easter Rib, and very nice it was. | ||
|
Show beta
βeta: This climb was my warm up for Easter Rib, and very nice it was. |
||||
| howlingbaboon | 26 Jul, 2006 |
Show βeta
βeta: Great slab! nice and long, one of my first VSs. I used: 1 nut, 6 cams, and 2/3 tricams. There's a couple of marginal placements on there which scared me somewhat with the sideways pull of my slightly zig-zag route. | ||
|
Show beta
βeta: Great slab! nice and long, one of my first VSs. I used: 1 nut, 6 cams, and 2/3 tricams. There's a couple of marginal placements on there which scared me somewhat with the sideways pull of my slightly zig-zag route. |
||||
| rayash | 21 Nov, 2005 |
Show βeta
βeta: a great climb take at least five cams for peace of mind . Dont bother with hexes or wires , I didnt take them , just dozens of cams mostly medium sizes | βeta? | |
|
Show beta
βeta: a great climb take at least five cams for peace of mind . Dont bother with hexes or wires , I didnt take them , just dozens of cams mostly medium sizes |
||||
| Luke01 | 18 Aug, 2005 |
Show βeta
βeta: I did it without cams, just hexes and a wire. Little bit scary but more interesting than just plugging cams in. | βeta? | |
|
Show beta
βeta: I did it without cams, just hexes and a wire. Little bit scary but more interesting than just plugging cams in. |
||||
| LakesWinter | 9 Apr, 2005 |
Show βeta
βeta: There is an in situ rusty pigeon on the top break, left of the fern bush | βeta? | |
|
Show beta
βeta: There is an in situ rusty pigeon on the top break, left of the fern bush |
||||
| Sam and will | 14 Mar, 2005 |
Show βeta
βeta: i aggree with dave i did on a super hot day with hexes and wires, absolutely fantastic a great end to the day, thn off to the pub for a pint! | βeta? | |
|
Show beta
βeta: i aggree with dave i did on a super hot day with hexes and wires, absolutely fantastic a great end to the day, thn off to the pub for a pint! |
||||
| leon | 24 May, 2004 |
Show βeta
βeta: a good route that's well protected. i rekon the traverse start is the hardest bit. | βeta? | |
|
Show beta
βeta: a good route that's well protected. i rekon the traverse start is the hardest bit. |
||||
| Whealiebob | 17 Oct, 2003 |
Show βeta
βeta: Do it on a really hot day (at least 30 deg c)with no cams for a full E grade experience!!! | βeta? | |
|
Show beta
βeta: Do it on a really hot day (at least 30 deg c)with no cams for a full E grade experience!!! |
||||
| Monk | 15 Jul, 2003 |
Show βeta
βeta: You can place a whole rack of cams on this route from 0 to 4! Also at least 3 good hex placements. Fantastic route. Not too straight forward and keeps interest throughout. Amazing! | βeta? | |
|
Show beta
βeta: You can place a whole rack of cams on this route from 0 to 4! Also at least 3 good hex placements. Fantastic route. Not too straight forward and keeps interest throughout. Amazing! |
||||
| Robo | 10 Jun, 2002 |
Show βeta
βeta: Take lots of cams! It's a little exposed otherwise... | βeta? | |
|
Show beta
βeta: Take lots of cams! It's a little exposed otherwise... |
||||
| Reds | 5 May, 2002 |
Show βeta
βeta: Nice one Albert - 1928! | βeta? | |
|
Show beta
βeta: Nice one Albert - 1928! |
||||
Logged Ascents
Guidebooks for Stanage Popular
Not all climbs appear in all guidebooks
Please Login to view more details on the logged ascents
Gargoyle Flake
Grade: VS 4c ***
(Bamford Edge)