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14m.

Rockfax Description
Reach the hanging flake from the chimney by a hard traverse (footholds scoured by nailed boots aeons ago), then layback to easy ground. A short wall concludes things. © Rockfax

FA. Frank Elliott 1930.

Ticklists

ROCKFAX Eastern Grit (2006): Top 500, 14 In A Day, Stanage Routes BMC Graded List, Stanage 100 VD - VS, Stanage for Crack Apprentices

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User Date Notes
MeMeMe 15 Aug, 2005 Show βeta
βeta: A good VD climb spoiled by a technically hard and polished traverse start. The traverse at the start is pretty horrible and probably not what people will be expecting on a VS. Although it's only 4 feet up it's strenuous to place gear (making it hard to place well). I think in retrospect I'd of enjoyed it more by putting a mat down and bouldering the start then soloing the top bit.
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βeta: A good VD climb spoiled by a technically hard and polished traverse start. The traverse at the start is pretty horrible and probably not what people will be expecting on a VS. Although it's only 4 feet up it's strenuous to place gear (making it hard to place well). I think in retrospect I'd of enjoyed it more by putting a mat down and bouldering the start then soloing the top bit.
Si dH 24 Jul, 2005 Show βeta
βeta: Climbed this today, although I stand by what I sid about needing the protecion at the start, it is good and I felt soft 5a - noway 5b - and the rest of the route is severe or even vdiff once youre on the flake. Soft VS.
βeta?
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βeta: Climbed this today, although I stand by what I sid about needing the protecion at the start, it is good and I felt soft 5a - noway 5b - and the rest of the route is severe or even vdiff once youre on the flake. Soft VS.
shaun walby 24 Jul, 2005 Show βeta
βeta: Nothing too unexpected from this one as all its difficulties are clearly on show 2m above the belayer. I got two bits of gear in (traverse)the second bit i might have been better keeping moving to the flake...too much faff on tired arms. Hard start for VS,worthy 5a.
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βeta: Nothing too unexpected from this one as all its difficulties are clearly on show 2m above the belayer. I got two bits of gear in (traverse)the second bit i might have been better keeping moving to the flake...too much faff on tired arms. Hard start for VS,worthy 5a.
sandy 19 Mar, 2005 Show βeta
βeta: Did this on a misty damp day. The horizontal break for the traverse was full of slime...no footholds and slime for your hands hmmm seemed hard for 5a...
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βeta: Did this on a misty damp day. The horizontal break for the traverse was full of slime...no footholds and slime for your hands hmmm seemed hard for 5a...
Si dH 29 Jan, 2005 Show βeta
βeta: Ive not done it but without the gear in the break its a nasty tumble. I was belaying it when my partner fell off (trying to reverse the traverse), the cam in the break popped and he buggered his ankle on the rocks below. Didnt climb again for 4 months or so.
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βeta: Ive not done it but without the gear in the break its a nasty tumble. I was belaying it when my partner fell off (trying to reverse the traverse), the cam in the break popped and he buggered his ankle on the rocks below. Didnt climb again for 4 months or so.
dycotiles 25 Oct, 2004 Show βeta
βeta: I don't think this route is 5a. Although the initial traverse is short, is very technical, with very polished foot holds, and when you get to the flake where you are supposed to pull up onto easier ground, you are already pumped out. I fell three times on it (on a technical n1 friend, no problem), and nearly broke an ankle against the chimney. Not what you would expect from a VS, definetedly, HVS, 5b.
βeta?
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βeta: I don't think this route is 5a. Although the initial traverse is short, is very technical, with very polished foot holds, and when you get to the flake where you are supposed to pull up onto easier ground, you are already pumped out. I fell three times on it (on a technical n1 friend, no problem), and nearly broke an ankle against the chimney. Not what you would expect from a VS, definetedly, HVS, 5b.
CragHead 17 Mar, 2003 Show βeta
βeta: The start of the route is seriously hard as there is no foothold (the orginal one is now really polished!) The horizon crack at the start - don't put techinal friends, use forged friends with quickdraw to extend it (trust me) Good 5a route to start with but get easier on the top.
βeta?
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βeta: The start of the route is seriously hard as there is no foothold (the orginal one is now really polished!) The horizon crack at the start - don't put techinal friends, use forged friends with quickdraw to extend it (trust me) Good 5a route to start with but get easier on the top.

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Voting
High HVS
Mid HVS
Low HVS
High VS
Mid VS
Low VS
High HS
Mid HS
Low HS
Votes cast 91
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
High 5a
Mid 5a
Low 5a
High 4c
Mid 4c
Low 4c
Votes cast 84
Votes cast 80
Style of Ascent
Lead
Followed
Soloed
Toproped
Alt Leads
Not Set
Onsighted
Repeated
Dogged
DNF
Flashed (β)
Ground Up
Redpoint
Not Set
Route of Interest

Moneylender's Crack

Grade: VS 5a ***
(Kinder Southern Edges)