UKC

Restricted Access

There are frequently problems with car crime in the Stanage area. DO NOT LEAVE ANY VALUABLES ON DISPLAY IN CARS OR MINIBUSES.

Camper vans are becoming an issue with local residents and farmers as their concerns over human waste (and contamination of water supplies) increase with the number of vans overnighting in the various parking areas and laybys there. Please respect this incredible area and the people living wihin it by not overnighting in campervans at Stanage - a number of formal campsites are available locally including North Lees campsite

 

Access restrictions under CRoW  sometimes apply to areas north of the causeway, these vary each year - see signing at access points, or check the PDNP website for closure dates.

2023 published closure dates are: - August 29th - 31st; September 1st, 4th-8th, 11th - 15th, 18th - 22nd and 25th - 29th; October 2nd - 5th

 

These closures do not affect any public rights of way or concessionary paths which remain open.

Seasonal Restrictions

Dates: 1 May to 30 July

Reason: Nesting Birds

Ring ouzels are nesting on Stanage, Burbage and Bamford this year. The nest sites change quickly and frequently as ring ouzels often have several broods each year with different nest sites for each brood. On site signage will be up around any of the nest sites where climbing may impact on the birds and this is always up to date and accurate.

Stanage from High Neb westwards (and Bamford Edge, Moscar, Derwent & Hallam Moors) has a permenant dog restriction and in addition can be for land management reasons, as allowed under the CRoW Act (which allows the landowner to restrict access for up to 28 days per year). Full details of any restrictions and the areas affected can be found by searching for 'Stanage' on the Natural England open access maps website and scrolling to the restrictions section at the bottom of the page. 

These closures do not affect public rights of way (which remain open) or the concessionary paths to Stanage.

12m.

Rockfax Description
Hand-traverse out right along the low break to the arete. Pumpy. © Rockfax

FA. Joe Brown 1954.

Ticklists

ROCKFAX Eastern Grit (2006): Top 500 , Stanage VS Challenge (1989 Guide) , Peak Gritstone S-HVS **+ , Brown & Whillans Stanage , An attempt at a definitive list of Joe Brown's FA/FFA in the Peak District , Eastern Grit 2015 - Top 500 VS , Peak grit , Pixies Lightweight Bowline CC - VS Challenge - Stanage , Stanage - all the routes on Stanage in the 1964 Sheffield-Stanage area guidebook

Feedback

User Date Notes
high peak 1 23 Jun, 2020 Show βeta
βeta: Totally underrated route. A nice JB route with good moves. I reckon 2 stars. Action packed to keep you moving.
Show beta
βeta: Totally underrated route. A nice JB route with good moves. I reckon 2 stars. Action packed to keep you moving.
Iain Thow 17 Mar, 2007 Show βeta
βeta: A pumpy symbol is right, but I thought the gear was good
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: A pumpy symbol is right, but I thought the gear was good
shaun walby 23 Apr, 2006 Show βeta
βeta: thought id do it as a warm down at the end of the day been 4b...ahhahah not really a warm down route. Excellent grit VS, short action packed right to the top. first few cams were poor but the holds are very good as long as your strong. 4b if your strong.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: thought id do it as a warm down at the end of the day been 4b...ahhahah not really a warm down route. Excellent grit VS, short action packed right to the top. first few cams were poor but the holds are very good as long as your strong. 4b if your strong.
DannyC 14 May, 2005 Show βeta
βeta: yeah, did this this morning and got lots of decent friends in, about an arms length from the arete on the left generally. pretty strenuous all the same to get them in whilst holding onto the slopers. made to look easy by seconder but a difficult vs 4c lead i thought.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: yeah, did this this morning and got lots of decent friends in, about an arms length from the arete on the left generally. pretty strenuous all the same to get them in whilst holding onto the slopers. made to look easy by seconder but a difficult vs 4c lead i thought.
Ram MkiV 22 Apr, 2005 Show βeta
βeta: actually, just remembered, the gear is actually good - after the bomber 2.5 friend there's a really good thread in one of the higher breaks too.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: actually, just remembered, the gear is actually good - after the bomber 2.5 friend there's a really good thread in one of the higher breaks too.
Ram MkiV 22 Apr, 2005 Show βeta
βeta: did this today.....I agree twas 'ard for VS and definitely 1 boldish 4c move to get to decent break. Can get a good horizontal jam in here though - less pumpy, and placed a good 2.5 friend. Yeah gear after this wasn't grand but climbing was easier if a bit slopey. also did hell crack which was savage too! can go along with both routes been VS but why tech. grades of 4b? Harshest VS's I've found for a while
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: did this today.....I agree twas 'ard for VS and definitely 1 boldish 4c move to get to decent break. Can get a good horizontal jam in here though - less pumpy, and placed a good 2.5 friend. Yeah gear after this wasn't grand but climbing was easier if a bit slopey. also did hell crack which was savage too! can go along with both routes been VS but why tech. grades of 4b? Harshest VS's I've found for a while
mat_galvin 17 Apr, 2005 Show βeta
βeta: I'm with you guys on this one. Very 'out there' for the grade. Issues with the gear higher up. Head game tastic!
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: I'm with you guys on this one. Very 'out there' for the grade. Issues with the gear higher up. Head game tastic!
Simon Caldwell 21 Jul, 2003 Show βeta
βeta: I found more gear than Rob, but hanging around to place it made the route far more strenuous. Definitely 4c moves, should have a 'pumpy' symbol.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: I found more gear than Rob, but hanging around to place it made the route far more strenuous. Definitely 4c moves, should have a 'pumpy' symbol.
Robo 9 Sep, 2002 Show βeta
βeta: This route scared the ...everything out of me. Mildy-exposed is a joke. Place all the gear you can in the low break at the traverse. There isn't anything you'd hang your coat off until near the top! Or maybe I was just being stupid...
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: This route scared the ...everything out of me. Mildy-exposed is a joke. Place all the gear you can in the low break at the traverse. There isn't anything you'd hang your coat off until near the top! Or maybe I was just being stupid...

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Voting
High HVS
Mid HVS
Low HVS
High VS
Mid VS
Low VS
High HS
Mid HS
Low HS
Votes cast 97
High 5a
Mid 5a
Low 5a
High 4c
Mid 4c
Low 4c
High 4b
Mid 4b
Low 4b
Votes cast 94
Votes cast 85
Style of Ascent
Lead
Followed
Soloed
Alt Leads
Toproped
Not Set
Onsighted
Repeated
Flashed (β)
DNF
Dogged
Redpoint
Ground Up
Not Set
Route of Interest
Birch Tree Wall Direct

Grade: VS 5a ***
(Black Rocks)

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