UKC

12m.

Rockfax Description
Hand-traverse out right along the low break to the arete. Pumpy. © Rockfax

FA. Joe Brown 1954.

Ticklists

ROCKFAX Eastern Grit (2006): Top 500 , Stanage VS Challenge (1989 Guide) , Peak Gritstone S-HVS **+ , Brown & Whillans Stanage , An attempt at a definitive list of Joe Brown's FA/FFA in the Peak District , Eastern Grit 2015 - Top 500 VS

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User Date Notes
high peak 1 23 Jun, 2020 Show βeta
βeta: Totally underrated route. A nice JB route with good moves. I reckon 2 stars. Action packed to keep you moving.
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βeta: Totally underrated route. A nice JB route with good moves. I reckon 2 stars. Action packed to keep you moving.
Iain Thow 17 Mar, 2007 Show βeta
βeta: A pumpy symbol is right, but I thought the gear was good
βeta?
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βeta: A pumpy symbol is right, but I thought the gear was good
shaun walby 23 Apr, 2006 Show βeta
βeta: thought id do it as a warm down at the end of the day been 4b...ahhahah not really a warm down route. Excellent grit VS, short action packed right to the top. first few cams were poor but the holds are very good as long as your strong. 4b if your strong.
βeta?
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βeta: thought id do it as a warm down at the end of the day been 4b...ahhahah not really a warm down route. Excellent grit VS, short action packed right to the top. first few cams were poor but the holds are very good as long as your strong. 4b if your strong.
DannyC 14 May, 2005 Show βeta
βeta: yeah, did this this morning and got lots of decent friends in, about an arms length from the arete on the left generally. pretty strenuous all the same to get them in whilst holding onto the slopers. made to look easy by seconder but a difficult vs 4c lead i thought.
βeta?
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βeta: yeah, did this this morning and got lots of decent friends in, about an arms length from the arete on the left generally. pretty strenuous all the same to get them in whilst holding onto the slopers. made to look easy by seconder but a difficult vs 4c lead i thought.
Ram MkiV 22 Apr, 2005 Show βeta
βeta: actually, just remembered, the gear is actually good - after the bomber 2.5 friend there's a really good thread in one of the higher breaks too.
βeta?
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βeta: actually, just remembered, the gear is actually good - after the bomber 2.5 friend there's a really good thread in one of the higher breaks too.
Ram MkiV 22 Apr, 2005 Show βeta
βeta: did this today.....I agree twas 'ard for VS and definitely 1 boldish 4c move to get to decent break. Can get a good horizontal jam in here though - less pumpy, and placed a good 2.5 friend. Yeah gear after this wasn't grand but climbing was easier if a bit slopey. also did hell crack which was savage too! can go along with both routes been VS but why tech. grades of 4b? Harshest VS's I've found for a while
βeta?
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βeta: did this today.....I agree twas 'ard for VS and definitely 1 boldish 4c move to get to decent break. Can get a good horizontal jam in here though - less pumpy, and placed a good 2.5 friend. Yeah gear after this wasn't grand but climbing was easier if a bit slopey. also did hell crack which was savage too! can go along with both routes been VS but why tech. grades of 4b? Harshest VS's I've found for a while
mat_galvin 17 Apr, 2005 Show βeta
βeta: I'm with you guys on this one. Very 'out there' for the grade. Issues with the gear higher up. Head game tastic!
βeta?
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βeta: I'm with you guys on this one. Very 'out there' for the grade. Issues with the gear higher up. Head game tastic!
Simon Caldwell 21 Jul, 2003 Show βeta
βeta: I found more gear than Rob, but hanging around to place it made the route far more strenuous. Definitely 4c moves, should have a 'pumpy' symbol.
βeta?
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βeta: I found more gear than Rob, but hanging around to place it made the route far more strenuous. Definitely 4c moves, should have a 'pumpy' symbol.
Robo 9 Sep, 2002 Show βeta
βeta: This route scared the ...everything out of me. Mildy-exposed is a joke. Place all the gear you can in the low break at the traverse. There isn't anything you'd hang your coat off until near the top! Or maybe I was just being stupid...
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: This route scared the ...everything out of me. Mildy-exposed is a joke. Place all the gear you can in the low break at the traverse. There isn't anything you'd hang your coat off until near the top! Or maybe I was just being stupid...

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Voting
High HVS
Mid HVS
Low HVS
High VS
Mid VS
Low VS
High HS
Mid HS
Low HS
Votes cast 91
High 5a
Mid 5a
Low 5a
High 4c
Mid 4c
Low 4c
High 4b
Mid 4b
Low 4b
Votes cast 88
Votes cast 79
Style of Ascent
Lead
Followed
Soloed
Alt Leads
Toproped
Not Set
Onsighted
Repeated
Flashed (β)
DNF
Dogged
Redpoint
Ground Up
Not Set
Route of Interest
Lean Man's Climb

Grade: VS 5a ***
(Black Rocks)

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