UKC

16m.

Rockfax Description
Start to the right of Martello Buttress at a second jammed block. Move up and left into an open shallow scoop where long reaches and rounded breaks give excellent sustained climbing. © Rockfax

FA. Rodney Wilson 1959.

Ticklists

ROCKFAX Eastern Grit (2006): Top 500, Stanage Routes BMC Graded List, Stanage *** HVS's, 29 Routes, 87 Stars, 1 E Point each, Stanage 3 Star HVS's - Eastern Grit, Peak Gritstone S-HVS **+, Ultimate HVS ticklist, Definitive *** Peak Grit, Eastern Grit 2 star plus (HVS/VS/HS), Stanage Popular, The Gritlist, Stanage HVS Challenge - All the 3*, Peak District Grit Graded List, Peak District Grit (2020) *** List, To do, Big trad grit list

Feedback

User Date Notes
GeorgiePorgie1 18 Jul, 2020 Show βeta
βeta: Up to half height you are looking at a Severe 4a. Crux starts above the cluster of short and deep scars and if you stick to the Rockfax line from there onwards (i.e. slightly to the left and then continue precisely in the middle of the face) there's only one poor rest and you are looking at climbing on classic open hand slopers to the top. Keeping to this line the climb is pumpy and sustained at 5b, albeit low in the grade, but 5b still. The non-pumpy comments might depend on the line you choose for the crux plus where you are in your day i.e. fresh or tired. I finished my leading day on this after having led two E1 5b and 2nd another HVS 5b so it all adds up.
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βeta: Up to half height you are looking at a Severe 4a. Crux starts above the cluster of short and deep scars and if you stick to the Rockfax line from there onwards (i.e. slightly to the left and then continue precisely in the middle of the face) there's only one poor rest and you are looking at climbing on classic open hand slopers to the top. Keeping to this line the climb is pumpy and sustained at 5b, albeit low in the grade, but 5b still. The non-pumpy comments might depend on the line you choose for the crux plus where you are in your day i.e. fresh or tired. I finished my leading day on this after having led two E1 5b and 2nd another HVS 5b so it all adds up.
Alan100 28 Sep, 2009 Show βeta
βeta: I think the difficulty varies a lot depending on how far left you go at the overlap. if you stay right and reach up over the square overlap then it's 5b. If you sneak off left (next to MB) then it drops a grade. Top half feels sustained after the 5b bit tho!
βeta?
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βeta: I think the difficulty varies a lot depending on how far left you go at the overlap. if you stay right and reach up over the square overlap then it's 5b. If you sneak off left (next to MB) then it drops a grade. Top half feels sustained after the 5b bit tho!
MeMeMe 2 May, 2005 Show βeta
βeta: Bottom section was fine, found the top section was pretty pumpy as, as usual, I took ages to get my gear in. Got some jams in on one of the horizonal breaks on the top section which helped conserve my arms a bit.
βeta?
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βeta: Bottom section was fine, found the top section was pretty pumpy as, as usual, I took ages to get my gear in. Got some jams in on one of the horizonal breaks on the top section which helped conserve my arms a bit.
cem 6 Apr, 2005 Show βeta
βeta: Great route, but I think HVS 5a is a more realistic grade.
βeta?
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βeta: Great route, but I think HVS 5a is a more realistic grade.
ericinbristol 24 Jun, 2004 Show βeta
βeta: Soft touch. Only pumpy if you hang about. HVS 5a.
βeta?
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βeta: Soft touch. Only pumpy if you hang about. HVS 5a.
Munir Hassan 15 Jun, 2004 Show βeta
βeta: I must have done this route wrong as I didn't find it pumpy. Very reachy though. I started a metre or two right of martello buttress's start, trended left until you are directly above the start of martello buttress and headed straight up. It was smack in the middle of the HVS 5a grade - which is also what my guidebook rates it at. Where does the 5b rating come in?
βeta?
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βeta: I must have done this route wrong as I didn't find it pumpy. Very reachy though. I started a metre or two right of martello buttress's start, trended left until you are directly above the start of martello buttress and headed straight up. It was smack in the middle of the HVS 5a grade - which is also what my guidebook rates it at. Where does the 5b rating come in?
Nick Smith - Climbers 31 May, 2003 Show βeta
βeta: The crux appears to be a long reach up at half-height from a chalked pinch, but if it's all too much, then an easier alternative is to go left 1m, then up to a set of well chalked holds. Possibly only HVS 5a this way? but still worth 3 stars.
βeta?
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βeta: The crux appears to be a long reach up at half-height from a chalked pinch, but if it's all too much, then an easier alternative is to go left 1m, then up to a set of well chalked holds. Possibly only HVS 5a this way? but still worth 3 stars.
mr__j5 29 Apr, 2003 Show βeta
βeta: Once the start is over come then the rest of the route is fairly easy for HVS provided that you are proficient in gritstone mantles on rounded holds. Picking the correct line is essential though.
βeta?
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βeta: Once the start is over come then the rest of the route is fairly easy for HVS provided that you are proficient in gritstone mantles on rounded holds. Picking the correct line is essential though.
Glen 7 Apr, 2003 Show βeta
βeta: Not as easy as it looks! Quite steep and sustained. Great though!
βeta?
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βeta: Not as easy as it looks! Quite steep and sustained. Great though!

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High E1
Mid E1
Low E1
High HVS
Mid HVS
Low HVS
High VS
Mid VS
Low VS
Votes cast 172
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
High 5a
Mid 5a
Low 5a
Votes cast 169
Votes cast 158
Style of Ascent
Lead
Followed
Soloed
Toproped
Alt Leads
Not Set
Onsighted
Repeated
Dogged
Flashed (β)
DNF
Redpoint
Ground Up
Not Set
Route of Interest

Neb Buttress

Grade: HVS 5a ***
(Bamford Edge)
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