Loading Notifications...
16m.

Rockfax Description
The original classic here. Climb either side of the left-hand jammed block, then continue direct for 6m until a ledge on the left can be reached. Move left to finish up the arete. © Rockfax

FA. Fergus Graham 1922.

Ticklists

Connoisseur's Classic Rock, ROCKFAX Eastern Grit (2006): Top 500, Stanage Routes BMC Graded List, 100 Stanage stars, Stanage 100 VD - VS, Peak Gritstone S-HVS **+, Rockfax Eastern Grit (2015) Top 50, 3 Star Stanage, Definitive *** Peak Grit, Eastern Grit 2 star plus (HVS/VS/HS), Definitive Eastern Grit top 50- 2001, 2006 and 2015 editions, Stanage 'The Popular End, Orange Spot Heaven'. 12 routes, 36 stars!, The Gritlist, Peak District Grit Graded List, Peak District Grit (2020) *** List, Eastern Grit Trip: The Best Of The Proposed Crags.

Feedback

User Date Notes
MorganMcGlade 2 Apr Show βeta
βeta: no gear on last 2m. but super bomber hand on top hold.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: no gear on last 2m. but super bomber hand on top hold.
Iain Thow 3 Apr, 2007 Show βeta
βeta: OK the start is hard, but above that it's only severe. If Verandah Buttress is only severe, then this certainly isn't VS
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: OK the start is hard, but above that it's only severe. If Verandah Buttress is only severe, then this certainly isn't VS
CurlyStevo 27 Sep, 2006 Show βeta
βeta: The left hand start can be done in numerous ways. I hooked a right leg over the tip of the block and then used my feet for friction to shuffle up. My mate just simply shuffled slowly up with both feet down left. 4b seems about right and with reasonable gear so HS. Easy HS above.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: The left hand start can be done in numerous ways. I hooked a right leg over the tip of the block and then used my feet for friction to shuffle up. My mate just simply shuffled slowly up with both feet down left. 4b seems about right and with reasonable gear so HS. Easy HS above.
shaun walby 15 Nov, 2003 Show βeta
βeta: First attempt couldn,t do the top, went too far left. Gaining the final jug up the arete was a bit reachy been a short ass so that was the crux for me, the start is only a bit tricky and can be well protected. Dont be fooled by looking up at this climb (i was) it looks like a jug fest it isnt... a very good VS4b
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: First attempt couldn,t do the top, went too far left. Gaining the final jug up the arete was a bit reachy been a short ass so that was the crux for me, the start is only a bit tricky and can be well protected. Dont be fooled by looking up at this climb (i was) it looks like a jug fest it isnt... a very good VS4b
gav p 12 Aug, 2002 Show βeta
βeta: The left hand start option is a pig of a vdiff thrutching exercise. Not pretty. Route pleasant enough above, probably just worth the 2 stars. Give the RH start a try.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: The left hand start option is a pig of a vdiff thrutching exercise. Not pretty. Route pleasant enough above, probably just worth the 2 stars. Give the RH start a try.

Logged Ascents

2197 users have logged this
200 users have this on their wishlist

Please Login to view more details on the logged ascents

Voting
High HVS
Mid HVS
Low HVS
High VS
Mid VS
Low VS
High HS
Mid HS
Low HS
Votes cast 254
High 5a
Mid 5a
Low 5a
High 4c
Mid 4c
Low 4c
High 4b
Mid 4b
Low 4b
Votes cast 238
Votes cast 228
Style of Ascent
Lead
Followed
Soloed
Toproped
Alt Leads
Not Set
Onsighted
Repeated
Flashed (β)
DNF
Dogged
Ground Up
Redpoint
Not Set
Route of Interest

Medusa

Grade: VS 4b ***
(Ravensdale)