12m.
Rockfax Description
Climb the groove on the right to a ledge then the left-hand narrow crack above. Hard for the grade though the gear is good! © Rockfax
FA. Don Morrison early 1960s.
Ticklists
ROCKFAX Eastern Grit (2006): Top 500 , Stanage for Crack Apprentices
Feedback
| User | Date | Notes | ||
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Dean.p.92 | 25 Jul, 2020 |
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βeta: Absolute sandbag. | βeta? | |
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βeta: Absolute sandbag. |
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| Kovatsclimbing | 30 May, 2020 |
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βeta: When I looked up.... Said to my self....\'Hanna that is gonna be hard work! \'..... Again the little voice inside wasn\'t lieing. Been battered, bruised, fought with the dragon but eventually Hanna won. Ps: jamming is not my strength but found those tapered cracks exrutiatingly hard to accommodate any sort of jams. Perfect rout for a grit yogi!!!!! | βeta? | |
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Show beta
βeta: When I looked up.... Said to my self....'Hanna that is gonna be hard work! '..... Again the little voice inside wasn't lieing. Been battered, bruised, fought with the dragon but eventually Hanna won. Ps: jamming is not my strength but found those tapered cracks exrutiatingly hard to accommodate any sort of jams. Perfect rout for a grit yogi!!!!! |
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| Richard 261 | 2 Sep, 2007 |
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βeta: Unbelievable! I agree with nearly all the above. This must be a first. This is a nasty route and shouldn't be attempted by a VS climber. I went on to lead Exit Stage Left, E15b immediately after, which I found easier. Thrombosis is at least HVS5b. | βeta? | |
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βeta: Unbelievable! I agree with nearly all the above. This must be a first. This is a nasty route and shouldn't be attempted by a VS climber. I went on to lead Exit Stage Left, E15b immediately after, which I found easier. Thrombosis is at least HVS5b. |
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| Fidget | 2 Apr, 2007 |
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βeta: I only seconded this, but it seems like a serious sandbag at VS. I could barely hang on, and I didn't have to place any gear! | βeta? | |
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βeta: I only seconded this, but it seems like a serious sandbag at VS. I could barely hang on, and I didn't have to place any gear! |
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| The Grist | 18 Feb, 2007 |
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βeta: This is a seriously bad route to warm up on. Agree with all the above. | βeta? | |
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βeta: This is a seriously bad route to warm up on. Agree with all the above. |
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| Monk | 26 Jun, 2006 |
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βeta: I found this harder than Agony Crack. It is amazing how 6 metres of VS climbing can feel so hard! I used a full repetoire of laybacks and hand/fist jams on this route and it definitely felt hard. On the other hand - the gear is excellent. | βeta? | |
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βeta: I found this harder than Agony Crack. It is amazing how 6 metres of VS climbing can feel so hard! I used a full repetoire of laybacks and hand/fist jams on this route and it definitely felt hard. On the other hand - the gear is excellent. |
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| Tom Randall - Lattice Training | 6 May, 2006 |
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βeta: I thought this was desperate to jam and a good deal harder than File, Hell crack, Mutiny crack etc. Maybe layback is the way to go? HVS if not. | βeta? | |
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βeta: I thought this was desperate to jam and a good deal harder than File, Hell crack, Mutiny crack etc. Maybe layback is the way to go? HVS if not. |
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| JohnHutch | 18 Nov, 2005 |
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βeta: Each time I thought I'd done the desperate bit, there was another! HVS surely. | βeta? | |
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βeta: Each time I thought I'd done the desperate bit, there was another! HVS surely. |
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| fenclimb | 26 Aug, 2005 |
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βeta: Its easyer to layback | βeta? | |
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βeta: Its easyer to layback |
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| Offwidth | 25 Jul, 2003 |
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βeta: Really hard but fortunately well protected. Arguably stiffer than Agony Crack next door. | βeta? | |
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βeta: Really hard but fortunately well protected. Arguably stiffer than Agony Crack next door. |
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| Nick Smith - Climbers | 15 Aug, 2002 |
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βeta: A tricky little VS if you can jam, and desperately hard if you can't! | βeta? | |
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βeta: A tricky little VS if you can jam, and desperately hard if you can't! |
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Route of Interest
Golden Yardstick
Grade: VS 5a ***
(Wildcat)