UKC

12m.

Rockfax Description
Climb the groove on the right to a ledge then the left-hand narrow crack above. Hard for the grade though the gear is good! © Rockfax

FA. Don Morrison early 1960s.

Ticklists

ROCKFAX Eastern Grit (2006): Top 500 , Stanage for Crack Apprentices , Pixies Lightweight Bowline CC - VS Challenge - Stanage

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User Date Notes
Dean.p.92 25 Jul, 2020 Show βeta
βeta: Absolute sandbag.
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βeta: Absolute sandbag.
Kovatsclimbing 30 May, 2020 Show βeta
βeta: When I looked up.... Said to my self....\'Hanna that is gonna be hard work! \'..... Again the little voice inside wasn\'t lieing. Been battered, bruised, fought with the dragon but eventually Hanna won. Ps: jamming is not my strength but found those tapered cracks exrutiatingly hard to accommodate any sort of jams. Perfect rout for a grit yogi!!!!!
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βeta: When I looked up.... Said to my self....'Hanna that is gonna be hard work! '..... Again the little voice inside wasn't lieing. Been battered, bruised, fought with the dragon but eventually Hanna won. Ps: jamming is not my strength but found those tapered cracks exrutiatingly hard to accommodate any sort of jams. Perfect rout for a grit yogi!!!!!
Richard 261 2 Sep, 2007 Show βeta
βeta: Unbelievable! I agree with nearly all the above. This must be a first. This is a nasty route and shouldn't be attempted by a VS climber. I went on to lead Exit Stage Left, E15b immediately after, which I found easier. Thrombosis is at least HVS5b.
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βeta: Unbelievable! I agree with nearly all the above. This must be a first. This is a nasty route and shouldn't be attempted by a VS climber. I went on to lead Exit Stage Left, E15b immediately after, which I found easier. Thrombosis is at least HVS5b.
Fidget 2 Apr, 2007 Show βeta
βeta: I only seconded this, but it seems like a serious sandbag at VS. I could barely hang on, and I didn't have to place any gear!
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βeta: I only seconded this, but it seems like a serious sandbag at VS. I could barely hang on, and I didn't have to place any gear!
The Grist 18 Feb, 2007 Show βeta
βeta: This is a seriously bad route to warm up on. Agree with all the above.
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βeta: This is a seriously bad route to warm up on. Agree with all the above.
Monk 26 Jun, 2006 Show βeta
βeta: I found this harder than Agony Crack. It is amazing how 6 metres of VS climbing can feel so hard! I used a full repetoire of laybacks and hand/fist jams on this route and it definitely felt hard. On the other hand - the gear is excellent.
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βeta: I found this harder than Agony Crack. It is amazing how 6 metres of VS climbing can feel so hard! I used a full repetoire of laybacks and hand/fist jams on this route and it definitely felt hard. On the other hand - the gear is excellent.
Tom Randall - Lattice Training 6 May, 2006 Show βeta
βeta: I thought this was desperate to jam and a good deal harder than File, Hell crack, Mutiny crack etc. Maybe layback is the way to go? HVS if not.
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βeta: I thought this was desperate to jam and a good deal harder than File, Hell crack, Mutiny crack etc. Maybe layback is the way to go? HVS if not.
JohnHutch 18 Nov, 2005 Show βeta
βeta: Each time I thought I'd done the desperate bit, there was another! HVS surely.
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βeta: Each time I thought I'd done the desperate bit, there was another! HVS surely.
fenclimb 26 Aug, 2005 Show βeta
βeta: Its easyer to layback
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βeta: Its easyer to layback
Offwidth 25 Jul, 2003 Show βeta
βeta: Really hard but fortunately well protected. Arguably stiffer than Agony Crack next door.
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βeta: Really hard but fortunately well protected. Arguably stiffer than Agony Crack next door.
Nick Smith - Climbers 15 Aug, 2002 Show βeta
βeta: A tricky little VS if you can jam, and desperately hard if you can't!
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βeta: A tricky little VS if you can jam, and desperately hard if you can't!

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Voting
High HVS
Mid HVS
Low HVS
High VS
Mid VS
Low VS
High HS
Mid HS
Low HS
Votes cast 104
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
High 5a
Mid 5a
Low 5a
High 4c
Mid 4c
Low 4c
Votes cast 102
Votes cast 82
Style of Ascent
Lead
Followed
Soloed
Toproped
Alt Leads
Not Set
Onsighted
Dogged
Repeated
DNF
Flashed (β)
Redpoint
Not Set
Route of Interest
High Neb Buttress

Grade: VS 4c ***
(Stanage North)

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