Rockfax Description
A classic solution to this fine buttress. Climb the chimney (a high sling runner is naughty but normal) until it is possible to bridge out (facing inwards) along a low line of pockets and bounce onto the left-hand arete. Traverse left and up to a slot in the centre of the face - small gear. When suitably sorted, trend left to a shallow groove just short of the arete. © Rockfax
FA. Ed Drummond 1973.
Ticklists
ROCKFAX Eastern Grit (2006): Top 500 , Stanage Routes BMC Graded List , Ron Fawcetts 100 extremes in a day , World Graded List , Peak Rock/11/Gritstone in the Seventies. , Ultimate E2 ticklist , Pete's 150 Peak Extremes , Stanage E2 Challenge (1989 Guide) , 3 Star Stanage , Chris H's 100 Mega Classic Trad , Definitive *** Peak Grit , On Peak Rock , Wired Peak District Grit Graded List , Wired Peak District Grit (2020) *** List , 2022 Rockfax Eastern Grit Graded List , The Eal List , Dunc's ticklist
Feedback
| User | Date | Notes | ||
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| Justsomeclimber | 3 Sep, 2023 |
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βeta: Can confirm the bridge is fine for anyone at least 5”7 | βeta? | |
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βeta: Can confirm the bridge is fine for anyone at least 5”7 |
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| Rob Knowles | 5 Jun, 2021 |
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βeta: Make sure to bring a yellow cam to place high and rich to protect your second on the crux moves | ||
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βeta: Make sure to bring a yellow cam to place high and rich to protect your second on the crux moves |
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| Andy Hobson | 28 May, 2006 |
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βeta: Very easy E2; crux move onto arete is perfectly protected. Traverse is 4c (but scary) then good gear and spooky 5a moves to finish. Fantastic. | βeta? | |
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βeta: Very easy E2; crux move onto arete is perfectly protected. Traverse is 4c (but scary) then good gear and spooky 5a moves to finish. Fantastic. |
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| Chris the Tall | 11 Dec, 2005 |
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βeta: Why trend left ? Going straight up from the gear slot, including going up the wall above seems more logical | βeta? | |
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βeta: Why trend left ? Going straight up from the gear slot, including going up the wall above seems more logical |
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| fenclimb | 18 Nov, 2005 |
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βeta: Insitu wire chip stick mentioned is now gone. | βeta? | |
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βeta: Insitu wire chip stick mentioned is now gone. |
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| Owen W-G | 27 Oct, 2005 |
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βeta: Can't quite decide on the grade on this one. With a high sling, the 5b crux is effectively top-roped (and therefore not E2 teritory), the traverse (5a-ish) a bit scary but still surely not E2-teritory to good gear and then a few 5a/b-ish moves just above the gear. The final moves a bit scary too, but you aren't gonna deck. All in all, no section of the route really seemed to warrent E2, but maybe the whole experience does? Not sure what I'm trying to say here! Don't forget to place a runner to the right of the topout else your second doesn't get to enjoy a top rope on the crux! | βeta? | |
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βeta: Can't quite decide on the grade on this one. With a high sling, the 5b crux is effectively top-roped (and therefore not E2 teritory), the traverse (5a-ish) a bit scary but still surely not E2-teritory to good gear and then a few 5a/b-ish moves just above the gear. The final moves a bit scary too, but you aren't gonna deck. All in all, no section of the route really seemed to warrent E2, but maybe the whole experience does? Not sure what I'm trying to say here! Don't forget to place a runner to the right of the topout else your second doesn't get to enjoy a top rope on the crux! |
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| nick w | 27 Apr, 2005 |
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βeta: missed out the bridge(only5'7")by chimping slightly higher up then lower down the arete to the traverse.awsome route! | βeta? | |
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βeta: missed out the bridge(only5'7")by chimping slightly higher up then lower down the arete to the traverse.awsome route! |
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| Paul Evans | 5 Apr, 2005 |
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βeta: Lovely. The bridging is good fun, traverse is easy and the final "up" moves made me think a bit! | βeta? | |
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βeta: Lovely. The bridging is good fun, traverse is easy and the final "up" moves made me think a bit! |
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| Gripped | 25 Jul, 2004 |
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βeta: Quite thrilling for the second (me) as well. For me the crux felt like the last few moves. Brilliant fun. | βeta? | |
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βeta: Quite thrilling for the second (me) as well. For me the crux felt like the last few moves. Brilliant fun. |
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| jonnyboy | 24 Jun, 2004 |
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βeta: Bridging was fine, nearly lost it on the traverse when i started to climb up to early. But a classic worth doing. | βeta? | |
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βeta: Bridging was fine, nearly lost it on the traverse when i started to climb up to early. But a classic worth doing. |
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| Robc | 30 Dec, 2003 |
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βeta: easy after the bridging move, easy traverese and good gear to finish absolutley qualitly route | βeta? | |
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βeta: easy after the bridging move, easy traverese and good gear to finish absolutley qualitly route |
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| Nick Smith - Climbers | 1 Jun, 2002 |
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βeta: So how high is the 'high' runner? And which is the best way to face when bouncing onto the left arete? | βeta? | |
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βeta: So how high is the 'high' runner? And which is the best way to face when bouncing onto the left arete? |
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| The Pylon King | 13 Dec, 2001 |
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βeta: a great expedition! fairly safe (dont mess up the traverse!) and great moves (if you can commit!) | βeta? | |
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βeta: a great expedition! fairly safe (dont mess up the traverse!) and great moves (if you can commit!) |
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Logged Ascents
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Dies Irae
Grade: E2 5c ***
(Stoney Middleton)