Rockfax Description
From a jug, climb leftwards to a thin crack then continue up the centre of the wall until under the capping overhang. A long reach from jams and a rounded exit overcome the final roof. Great climbing which is well protected throughout. © Rockfax

FA. Len Millsom 1963, FA. (Direct) Gary Gibson 1982

Ticklists: Froggatt to Black Rocks (BMC) - The Grade List, All trad climbs at Birchen Edge.

tom_lewis89 24/Sep/17 2nd dog

Span! Lack of! All the cheating to get gear back off this.

Mike505 20/Jun/17 Lead dog

I don't think I've ever been an such a hard route for the grade. Managed to get all the moves but doing it clean will take a little work. Hats off to anyone who onsights it. The moves off the deck are brilliant but took a little work and the first bit of gear is low, after that the gear seems good except the best holds also make for great cam placements.

Hidden 03/Jun/17 Lead O/S
Owen Diba 05/Feb/17 Lead dog
Dale Comley 14/Aug/16 Solo O/S
dom94 10/Apr/16 Lead O/S

Great climb, being 6'2 definitely helps. Tough and pumpy, 2 weeks in Kalymnos definitely helped me on this. For the top span it is definitely an undercut that is needed, not a jam, though a jam is useful to get into the undercut.

Lawrence Beesley-Peck 10/Apr/16 2nd
with dom94
kermit_uk 29/Aug/15 Lead dog

Had a rest before the final move. Great climbing and surprisingly steep!

Emmawood 28/Jun/15 TR dnf
jamesgodwin64 16/May/15 Lead dnf
with Chiris Fox
nick ferro 10/May/15 Lead dog

2 rests. nice moves.

Longsufferingropeholder 10/May/15 Lead dog

Left no room in the rubbish hold after stuffing it with cams, which I then had to sit on.

Mark Warnett ?/Oct/14 Lead dog

Pumpy and very hard! Hard to on sight except for the fit and talented

Hidden 27/Sep/14 2nd dog
Jackwd 20/Apr/14 2nd dog

Seconded a guy who had climbed it but his partner couldn't do the moves. Excellent climbing and good effort by the leader for keeping going! The final move is excellent when you know how!

Kevster 08/Mar/14 TR

Last move is a way!

RFWilkie 01/Sep/13 Lead dog

Lovely moves up till the top section which seemed virtually impossible without a massive reach, escaped off right.

with Kev
David Kay 08/Jun/13 Lead O/S

Chuffed to have got the onsight, I really thought I would have needed a rest/taken a fall on the long reach.

karol dubas 15/Apr/13 Lead RP
with Phil Sadler
deacondeacon 09/Oct/12 Lead RP

Good route but poor lead, came off pretty low, Pete climbed it with a couple of rests then I lead on Petes gear. Keen to go back and lead placing gear. Great route and tough for an E2. Feels very sporty.

Alex Munnery 07/Oct/12 TR RP

Once climbed on top rope, practiced placing gear, want to lead it in the future

NathanW 07/Oct/12 TR RP
colin177 03/Oct/12 TR dog
with James Morley
Hidden 23/Sep/12 Lead dog
Hidden 06/Sep/12 2nd dog
dannyboy83 12/Aug/12 Lead O/S
with Floris
Graeme Hammond 01/Jul/12 Lead rpt

Found the hardest move between the 2 and 3rd breaks, top fairly straight forward by comparison and not that reachy (easy toe jam and a good undercut) after a good rest on the jams. Previously failed on this (21/Mar/07) so good to finally do this, a cracking route :)

with Becky E, Pete aka Dad
Hidden 18/Jun/12 Lead dog
Keendan 16/May/12 Lead O/S

One of the hardest things I've pulled off on lead. The middle crux was very close. The last reach is huge! took three attempts before I found a good undercut handjam.

mattshort 14/Apr/12 TR dog
mattpw 14/Apr/12 TR dog
Tom Seccombe 13/Mar/12 Lead dog

Under cut top break.

DaveFidler 24/Aug/11 Lead O/S
liamoloughlin 28/May/11 Lead O/S
mwatson ??/2011 -
will9911 06/Nov/10 2nd
with chris
Hidden 12/Oct/10 Lead dog
llamaglama 12/Oct/10 2nd
with Jam
Richard G Wilkinson 10/Oct/10 TR dnf
with Oliver Ryan, Anthony Allsopp
Anthony Allsopp 10/Oct/10 TR O/S

Nice project now

with Richard Wilkinson, Olly Ryan
Mike_Hayes 04/Sep/10 -
Ram MkiV 29/Aug/10 Lead

Had to make a pumped retreat from first gear break with a little jump down to the deck. Couldn't make the reach off the jams up top, steady enough just undercutting instead (well, would have been if not so pumped!)

with loads of people from hull
Oliver Branagan 29/Aug/10 Lead dog

Couldn't reach the Gary Gibson way, (massive move) Finished the Len Millsom way.

with Tommy M, Miles M
AlistairB 22/Aug/10 Lead dnf

Way too hot, gave up after watching my hands literally slide on the break trying to place the second runner. Wasn't worth trying in that kind of heat tbh!

highlux ?/Aug/10 Lead O/S

Found the stretch at the top hard!

tebs 26/Apr/10 Lead β

Led on Jon's gear. A pumpy micro classic. Really really good. The crux wasn't the long reach but a technical move lower down.

with Jon
mic_b 24/Apr/10 Lead rpt
Hidden 23/Apr/10 Lead RP
DuncanR 23/Apr/10 Lead
with Scott Mckenzie
Hidden 23/Apr/10 2nd dog
Hidden 17/Oct/09 Lead O/S
goi.ashmore 03/Oct/09 Lead RP

Missed the monster reach at the top on first go

with John Haslam
Hidden 20/Sep/09 TR RP
Twisty 20/Sep/09 Lead O/S
with Rayan Sammut
Hidden 25/Jul/09 TR dog
amstel 28/May/09 2nd
Alan James - UKC and UKH 28/May/09 Lead

Both moves are easier for the tall, the final move is probably close to impossible for the short. Early runner is hard-earned from a pumpy break. Other runners are fine with big breaks that take all medium to big sizes of cams.

Creep_pea 02/Jun/08 TR dnf
with Sam
Castleclimber 24/May/08 Lead dog
sadams 14/May/08 Lead O/S
with Catherine Adams
btc 05/Apr/08 2nd dnf
with keith daly
Hidden 27/May/07 TR O/S
Jon_Warner 26/May/07 TR dog

One to lead but a way off yet

with Jonny
Jack Symmons ?/Apr/07 Lead
with Dave P
derico 11/Mar/07 Lead RP
with Jack
Hidden 14/Apr/06 Lead dnf
ukb & bmc shark 27/Aug/05 Lead O/S
with Ben Morris
Hidden 14/Aug/05 2nd RP
Hidden 15/Aug/04 Lead rpt
Hidden 04/Jul/04 2nd O/S
Mike_Hayes ??/2004 Lead
CrashMat Rob 16/Jul/03 TR
with Martin Smith, Martin Whelan, Nicky, Glynn
dan_o_b ?/May/03 2nd O/S
CrashMat Rob 29/Aug/01 Lead dog

with 2 rests

with Steve, Sahra, Miles, Nicky
Jon Read ?/Jul/00 Lead O/S

Bad hay fever day.

with Dave Edmunds
Strong Steve 10/May/00 Lead
Strong Steve 10/May/00 Lead G/U
CrashMat Rob 26/Mar/00 TR
with Brian, Nicky
marcoleptic ??/2000 TR
with Dave
CrashMat Rob 27/Nov/99 TR
with Sahra, Miles, Martin Whelan, Nicky
CrashMat Rob 14/May/99 TR
with Nicky
Hidden 12/Jun/98 Lead dnf
Hidden 18/May/97 Lead O/S
Hidden 29/Apr/97 -
Hidden 05/Jun/96 2nd O/S
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High 6b
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Style of ascent
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