UKC

22m.

Rockfax Description
A good powerful line through the underlaps. A bolt protects a hard move which is a bit easier for the tall. After that it gets very pumpy, though on big holds. The finish is usually a jungle bash through brambles.. © Rockfax

UKC Logbook Description
Now with a new bolt.

FA. Tom Proctor, Steve Bancroft 1977.

Ticklists

Extreme Rock , World Graded List , Peak Rock/13/The Limestone Revolution , Ultimate E5 ticklist , Definitive *** Peak Lime , 50 E5s at 50

Feedback

User Date Notes
Adrian Berry 12 Jun, 2003 Show βeta
βeta: Did it last night, traversed right from the bolt and made a very long reach to a small hold, then another hard move to get established. After that it really is jugs jugs jugs. Not sure if I found the easiest way of doing the crux, but definitely very 6b that way, and hard to see where the E5 comes from, so I'd give it E4 6b, just maybe E5 to onsight the 6b crux, can't see how reach would make that much of a difference, you'd really have to be an ape. Hint: it's actually quite reasonable to climb back to the ground after clipping the bolt -I did it twice before going for it.
Show beta
βeta: Did it last night, traversed right from the bolt and made a very long reach to a small hold, then another hard move to get established. After that it really is jugs jugs jugs. Not sure if I found the easiest way of doing the crux, but definitely very 6b that way, and hard to see where the E5 comes from, so I'd give it E4 6b, just maybe E5 to onsight the 6b crux, can't see how reach would make that much of a difference, you'd really have to be an ape. Hint: it's actually quite reasonable to climb back to the ground after clipping the bolt -I did it twice before going for it.

Logged Ascents

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Guidebooks for Stoney Middleton

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Voting
High E6
Mid E6
Low E6
High E5
Mid E5
Low E5
High E4
Mid E4
Low E4
Votes cast 31
High 6c
Mid 6c
Low 6c
High 6b
Mid 6b
Low 6b
High 6a
Mid 6a
Low 6a
Votes cast 16
Votes cast 28
Style of Ascent
Lead
Followed
Not Set
Onsighted
Ground Up
Redpoint
Dogged
Repeated
Flashed (β)
DNF
Not Set
Route of Interest
Ceramic Extension

Grade: E5 6a ***
(Chee Dale Lower)

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