UKC

35m.

Rockfax Description
Outstanding face-climbing, continuously interesting with the two hard sections linked by superb moves. All this, plus opportunities to recover in between, make this justifiably one of the most sought after routes of the grade in the country. Start just below the ledge of Original Route, below a short, capped groove up and right. Enter the groove (good low wire, peg) and climb it past two pegs to the top. Pull out right (wire) then back left to the rest on Flaky Wall. Follow this past its tricky bit and continue in a direct line up the pocketed wall to an exciting finish onto the ledge. © Rockfax

FA. Ron Fawcett, Geoff Birtles, Al Evans 1976. Curiously graded 6c when it was first done.

Ticklists: Top five E5s, Great Wall Climbs of the UK, The High Tor Top Ten, Full of Myself - Johnny's Book namecheck, Trad climbs for sport climbers, Rockfax Peak Limestone Top 50, World Graded List, Peak Rock/13/The Limestone Revolution, Caff's 100 Ace E5s, Caff's 100 Best E5's, Ultimate E5 ticklist, The best the UK has to offer for beasts (apart from the lakes cos its always wet), Definitive *** Peak Lime, On Peak Rock.


ClimberDateStyle
debsb 03/Aug Lead O/S

Totally awesome!

with Mia Stacey
Hidden 11/May Lead O/S
anguskille 11/May Lead β

Brilliant! I was well impressed with the top section. Didn't have any beta really but belayed James on it first

dominic lee 21/Apr 2nd
with daniel lee
dominic lee 08/Apr Lead rpt
with daniel lee
ded ??/2018 -
Tom Livingstone 06/Aug/17 Lead O/S
duncan 04/Aug/17 Lead dnf

Swung onto the finishing jug and dislocated my shoulder. Took the fall.

with Hugo Glover
duncan 21/Jul/17 Lead dnf

Got to the crux of Flaky but runners in the groove all fell out as I climbed past them. Retreaded rapidly. Then it started raining.

with Hugo Glover
Hidden 21/Jul/17 -
ian bryant 24/Jun/17 Lead O/S

Hard moves between good rests

chris m fisher 16/Jun/17 Lead O/S

Super indeed!

with Ceara
Duncan Campbell 11/Jun/17 Lead G/U

Fell off trying to get into flakey wall a few years ago on an early E5 onsight attempt. Impressed I got through the groove back then it's hard! Didn't remember anything of use from that attempt. Found the flakey wall bit steadyish but the crack above felt more tricky than Misha made it look last week. The top is a little cheeky but, as ever, spot the footholds before you commit and it's not too bad. Brilliant, though I maybe preferred Tales.

James Oswald 11/Jun/17 2nd

Will come back to lead this soon.

Misha 03/Jun/17 Lead dog

Gutted to fall off this. Getting up and out of the initial groove was well hard, definitely the crux of the route and a bit worrying relying on those old pegs. Steady above that. Spent a while on the Flakey hands free resting and waiting for the clouds to roll in as the sun was scorching. The hard bit on Flakey went fine this time (fell off doing Flakey a few weeks back). Above the Flakey crux it's steady again for a while but there's a sting in the tail! To be fair I knew it's cheeky at the top. Got an upside down black offset in the famous folded over nut 7 pocket - much easier to get in and looked like it might hold. Well, it did, twice! Felt steady moving past those pockets, got a foot in, stretched up thinking there would be a jug but there wasn't, at which point the foot popped off (lost balance?). Went straight back up, got a pocket up and right, swapped feet and just as I was thinking what an idiot I was for falling off, the foot slipped off again, d'oh! Careless... Up again, this time paying attention. There were a couple more pulls to get the jug and then a final move off the jug - poor feet so a bit pumpy but wasn't going to drop it! Great route, should go back to do it clean.

Andy Moles 13/May/17 2nd
with Ben Silvestre, ferdia
ferdia 13/May/17 Lead O/S

enjoyed this so much. had the gear beta for the top but preferred to push on, so... onsight. run out but bomber gear.

with Ben Silvestre, Andy Moles
duncan 04/Sep/16 Lead dnf

Couldn't swing out of the groove. A weak effort.

with Sean Smith
NDD 14/Jul/16 2nd
with sam harvie, Oli
Hidden 30/Jun/16 2nd O/S
Theo Moore - UKC and UKH 26/Jun/16 Lead O/S

Great route. Thought the start was pumpy but not too hard although probably the physical crux. Didn't find the groove shared with Flaky Wall too hard this time. Once I got to the rest above I spent ages climbing up and down in to a really pumpy position trying to place to illusive number 7 nut. Finally got it after about my 5th up-and-down, then once I started the final section got stood up and it was a no-hands rest! The top is pretty easy: until the very last move all the holds are really good and you can relax in every position. Felt good latching the final jug after the run-out.

with Roisin
UKB Shark 23/Jun/16 2nd rpt
with Nickc
Nickc 23/Jun/16 Lead RP

blew the onsight by pulling a hold off on easy ground

with Simon lee
Louishmouis 18/Jun/16 Lead O/S
Mike_Hayes 04/Jun/16 Lead
miastacey 04/Oct/15 Lead O/S

Great climb. Had already used wires needed to protect top run out so had to just whack a cam in the crack and go up the pockets. Top wall isn't that hard but it did feel bold.

with Shiv Cloughlan
malx 20/Sep/15 Lead O/S

Had done flaky wall before. best route on the wall that I've done - just Bastille to go now

quiffhanger 12/Sep/15 Lead O/S

Pretty steady & great moves. Tried to fiddle some gear in the top pockets. Failed and pressed on.

with Pete W, Dan
rocksol ??/2015 -
tim newton 27/Aug/14 Lead dnf

Sketched my way up the whole route to past the top pockets with my hands on bad crimps on the finishing ledge, but didn't find a good enough hold, my feet weren't on anything much and the inevitable happened. I didn't have any gear in any of the pockets, my last runner was a wire in a crack a long way below. Fell about 20 metres down to where the good rest is below the crux of Flaky wall. Escaped up the flaky wall finish. I'll try to place some gear in the top pockets next time. I think I must have missed some holds at the very top, because the pocket sequence was OK, everything just seemed to run out at the exit.

Duncan Campbell 16/Jul/14 Lead dnf

:( Basically got mega pumped and flustered trying to get a wire in the crack above the groove and wasn't overly happy with it, so backed it up but by this time was pretty goosed. Kept going but knew it was futile and was unwilling to risk a big whip onto the kit so down-climbed and dropped off. I'll be back.

with Stadders
GrantB 17/May/14 2nd
Hidden 17/May/14 Lead O/S
Ally Smith 17/May/14 Lead rpt
with GrantB
dominic lee 12/Apr/14 2nd
nathanlee 12/Apr/14 Lead β

Essentially onsight really. Had a little bit of beta for gear at the top which I didn't actually follow. Perfect pockets!

Ricky Rocks 11/Apr/14 Lead O/S

Amazing route, continually absorbing climbing, a really good battle...

steve_yo 11/Apr/14 2nd
mike mo ??/2014 -
mike mo ??/2014 -
Apharri 14/Aug/13 Lead O/S
with Jim Gayler
markalmack 29/Jun/13 Lead O/S

Such a good route. Felt so relaxed on the initial groove. I got more and more scared the higher i got. Placed my rock 7 early in the route, so didn't have it to place before the final run out. So fun. Thoroughly enjoyed it.

with ctodd
Hidden 29/Jun/13 2nd O/S
The old James turnbull 17/Jun/13 Lead O/S

amazing.

mwatson 05/Jun/13 Lead O/S

seams decent bouldering strength will get you through most things, felt fine, got some large sideways nuts for the run out they looked ok. really happy to get this and tails on the day of my last ever university exam

hamer89 31/May/13 Lead O/S
Keendan 28/Feb/13 Lead dog

Not a very smooth lead: Fell onto the pegs at the start. Thought it was by far the hardest part. Felt the whole route quite sustained and a bit scary. For the last runout, I managed to place a skyhook upside down above a sideways offset nut. Great combination. I broke a hold off the very top move and fell on the skyhook. It held, making the route feel safer than most accounts suggest.

Andy Peak 1 28/Feb/13 2nd

Dead hard

with dan
ejected ??/2013 Lead O/S
dominic lee 02/Sep/12 Lead rpt

Last done in 1980 with Dan.Looooooong time..

JBO 28/Aug/12 Lead O/S

I can't believe I've actually onsighted this! This has been a massive goal for me for a long time, and feels like a much bigger milestone than other E5s I've done. The lower groove has the technically hardest climbing, but the upper wall is quite committing and insecure, especially when your shoelace is undone! This is first route I've done with a bold, serious feel to it, so I got pretty scared a long way above gear before the last hard moves, starting to doubt if I could do it, and doubt the gear. Luckily I snapped out of it! Just brilliant.

Speeddemonsi 24/Jul/12 Lead O/S

Warmed up on Flakey Wall, was a bit disappointed, did this and was not disappointed. Absolutely brilliant.

Ally Smith 10/Jun/12 2nd rpt
harvie 27/Mar/12 Lead
gforce 16/Aug/11 Lead dnf

Fell off the tricky section on Flaky Wall and lowered off mildly grumpy.

with mavtu
steve_yo 14/Aug/11 Lead O/S
with smacks
Ally Smith 24/Apr/11 Lead O/S

Bit of a journey...

with Si Clark, Gareth
Hidden 28/Mar/11 Lead O/S
Hidden 27/Mar/11 Lead
alaan 27/Mar/11 2nd rpt
with Aly
Luke Brooks 14/Oct/10 2nd
with barni
barni 14/Oct/10 Lead O/S
Adam Long 28/Jul/10 Lead O/S

Amazing. Final runout not so bold with tricams.

with Char Williams
Daniel Wicks 19/Jun/10 2nd
with Rob
Martin Cleaver 26/May/10 2nd
with Dan Gibson
dan gibson 26/May/10 Lead O/S
with martin cleaver
Adam Lincoln 23/Mar/10 Lead O/S
with Duncan Critchley
Ed Booth 20/Sep/09 Lead O/S
Adam Booth 20/Sep/09 2nd
feilx 12/Sep/09 Lead O/S
with La Mont
Alex Mason 09/Sep/09 Lead O/S

Yeep, done it. Scary bottom groove on shit pegs,(didnt find the bomber rock 7, unless its the one i couldnt place until after the crux) well protected crux on flaky wall, then a steady E3 5c finish. Mega.

with TonyM
Cassidy 13/Jun/09 Lead O/S
with Will, Duboust
Hidden 13/Jun/09 Lead O/S
NDD 13/Jun/09 2nd
Andrew Barker 04/Apr/09 Lead O/S

An amazing climb. Plenty of good rests but a bit tiring on your feet. I managed to stay on despite both feet coming off while trying to swap feet on a rest! About as onsight as it could be considering I did Flaky Wall last year.

with Jack Symmons
morganator 22/Sep/08 Lead O/S
with Graham Schofield
lukehunt 17/Sep/08 Lead O/S
with Steve barrat
Somerset swede basher 27/Aug/08 Lead O/S

Mostly onsight although ive done flakey wall so i have done the middle bit before. Fantastic moves all the way up!

with Martin Cleaver
Hidden 20/Jul/08 Lead O/S
Luke Brooks 20/Jul/08 Lead O/S
DavidEvans 01/Jul/08 2nd
Adam Ellwood 01/Jul/08 Lead O/S
nige 28/Jun/08 Lead O/S
with mark hounslea
Ram MkiV 25/Jun/08 Lead O/S

reeve gave me some beta about friends in pockets on the final run out, both of which in turn fell out as I climbed past them! fortunately wasn't too bothered.

with Andy Reeve
Ian Broome 31/May/08 2nd dog

tricky start, an goey high up!

with alaan
alaan 31/May/08 Lead O/S
with Broom
Hidden 03/May/08 Lead O/S
Hidden 22/Apr/08 Lead O/S
robyn1 ??/2008 -
UKB Shark 02/Aug/07 2nd
Toby Dunn 02/Jun/07 Lead O/S
with dave evans
Hidden ??/2007 -
Boy ??/2006 -
Hidden 04/Sep/05 Lead O/S
Dave Bond 27/Aug/05 Lead O/S
with Simon Wren
Tom Briggs ??/2005 Lead O/S
with Mark Vallance
whispering nic ?/Aug/01 Lead O/S
with Niall
Hidden 22/Jul/01 Lead O/S
craig h 01/Jun/99 Lead RP
with Chris c
ellis ?/Jun/99 Lead O/S
Jon Read ?/May/99 2nd O/S
Dave Musgrove Jnr 18/Apr/98 Lead O/S
with Al Willoner
duncan 20/Sep/97 Lead dnf

Pulled off hold on finishing ledge and took the fall.

with Dan Donovan
sadams 03/Aug/96 Lead O/S
with Hugh Cottom
Roget 23/Jun/96 Lead rpt
with jon
Hidden ??/1996 2nd O/S
Pete Wimbush ??/1995 2nd
with Dave Langrish
Hidden 21/Jul/93 2nd rpt
Hidden 05/Jul/93 Lead O/S
mattnuttall 15/Apr/93 2nd O/S
with Ian Vickers, Alan Holden
PaulTanton 02/Aug/92 Lead dog

Fell off the last move. Bugger!

Rich Kirby 02/Aug/92 2nd O/S

Good day. An E5 each.

AlexRenshaw 15/Jul/92 2nd
with Dor? Green
Steve Walker ??/1992 Lead
with stuart muir
Alan James - UKC and UKH 01/May/90 -
with Andy Fanshawe
Eduardo Martinez ?/May/90 Lead O/S
Hidden 28/Apr/90 Lead O/S
Hidden ??/1990 -
Seymore Butt ??/1990 Lead
with Roy
Billg ??/1990 Lead O/S
with Nigel Slater
Pete Ogden ??/1990 Lead RP
with Pete Brown
Hidden ?/Aug/89 Lead O/S
Chris Wright 17/Jun/89 Lead O/S
DDDD ??/1989 Lead O/S

1st E5, sneaky rock 7

with Paul Evans
William Robertson ?/Sep/88 Lead O/S
with Emily
keefe ??/1988 -
Seb Grieve 20/May/87 Lead

Probably the best E5 on the Tor. Beautiful runout pocket climbing on the head wall. As others have said the first groove with the dodgy pegs is the crux. Top end E4.

Hidden 18/Apr/87 Lead
UKB Shark 02/Oct/86 Lead

Onew fall on low crux

with Mark Nicholson aka Bongo
AlexRenshaw 10/Sep/86 Lead
with Simon Donowho
Steve Clegg ?/Aug/86 Lead

the date’s a guess

with Gough
UKB Shark 25/Jan/86 Lead dnf
with Paul Hempstock
UKB Shark 01/Oct/85 Lead dnf
with Seb Grieve
Hidden ??/1985 Lead O/S
andy gittins ??/1985 Lead O/S
Neil McA 27/Sep/84 Lead G/U

Dead chuffed with this! Slipped off in the groove at the start, lowered off then did it ok from the ground. Wouldn't fancy going back in EB's and a Whillan's Harness to do it again though!

with Steve Hartland
Hidden ?/Sep/84 Lead O/S
Andy Nicholson ?/Aug/84 Lead RP

Thanks Derek that was a great day...We threw frisbee in the carpark then you went to the States...

with Derek Hersey
Mike Owen 19/Mar/83 Lead O/S

Both led.

with Joe Healey
Ian Jones ??/1983 Lead O/S
with Karen Ghiselli
mitch1960 ??/1982 Lead
with Dave Fernig, Howard tingle
Chris Craggs ??/1980 2nd
with Graham Parkes
paul__in_sheffield ??/1980 Lead
Brian H ??/1980 2nd

Followed Chris Gore up this in the 1980s

with Chris Gore
Chris Craggs ??/1980 -
Al Evans ??/1976 2nd

first ascent

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