Rockfax Description
Outstanding face-climbing, continuously interesting with the two hard sections linked by superb moves. All this, plus opportunities to recover in between, make this justifiably one of the most sought after routes of the grade in the country. Start just below the ledge of Original Route, below a short, capped groove up and right. Enter the groove (good low wire, peg) and climb it past two pegs to the top. Pull out right (wire) then back left to the rest on Flaky Wall. Follow this past its tricky bit and continue in a direct line up the pocketed wall to an exciting finish onto the ledge. © Rockfax

FA. Ron Fawcett, Geoff Birtles, Al Evans 1976. Curiously graded 6c when it was first done.

Ticklists: Top five E5s, Great Wall Climbs of the UK, The High Tor Top Ten, Full of Myself - Johnny's Book namecheck, Trad climbs for sport climbers, Rockfax Peak Limestone Top 50, World Graded List, Peak Rock/13/The Limestone Revolution, Caff's 100 Ace E5s, Caff's 100 Best E5's, Ultimate E5 ticklist, The best the UK has to offer for beasts (apart from the lakes cos its always wet).

duncan 04/Sep/16 Lead dnf
with Sean Smith
NDD 14/Jul/16 2nd
with sam harvie, Oli
Hidden 30/Jun/16 2nd O/S
Theo Moore - UKC and UKH 26/Jun/16 Lead O/S

Great route. Thought the start was pumpy but not too hard although probably the physical crux. Didn't find the groove shared with Flaky Wall too hard this time. Once I got to the rest above I spent ages climbing up and down in to a really pumpy position trying to place to illusive number 7 nut. Finally got it after about my 5th up-and-down, then once I started the final section got stood up and it was a no-hands rest! The top is pretty easy: until the very last move all the holds are really good and you can relax in every position. Felt good latching the final jug after the run-out.

with Roisin
ukb shark 23/Jun/16 2nd rpt
with Nick Conway
Nickc 23/Jun/16 Lead RP

blew the onsight by pulling a hold off on easy ground

with Simon lee
Louishmouis 18/Jun/16 Lead O/S
with theo
Mike_Hayes 04/Jun/16 Lead
miastacey 04/Oct/15 Lead O/S

Great climb. Had already used wires needed to protect top run out so had to just whack a cam in the crack and go up the pockets. Top wall isn't that hard but it did feel bold.

with Shiv Cloughlan
malx 20/Sep/15 Lead O/S

Had done flaky wall before. best route on the wall that I've done - just Bastille to go now

quiffhanger 12/Sep/15 Lead O/S

Pretty steady & great moves. Tried to fiddle some gear in the top pockets. Failed and pressed on.

with Pete W, Dan
rocksol ??/2015 -
tim newton 27/Aug/14 Lead dnf

Sketched my way up the whole route to past the top pockets with my hands on bad crimps on the finishing ledge, but didn't find a good enough hold, my feet weren't on anything much and the inevitable happened. I didn't have any gear in any of the pockets, my last runner was a wire in a crack a long way below. Fell about 20 metres down to where the good rest is below the crux of Flaky wall. Escaped up the flaky wall finish. I'll try to place some gear in the top pockets next time. I think I must have missed some holds at the very top, because the pocket sequence was OK, everything just seemed to run out at the exit.

Duncan Campbell 16/Jul/14 Lead dnf

:( Basically got mega pumped and flustered trying to get a wire in the crack above the groove and wasn't overly happy with it, so backed it up but by this time was pretty goosed. Kept going but knew it was futile and was unwilling to risk a big whip onto the kit so down-climbed and dropped off. I'll be back.

with Stadders
Ally Smith 17/May/14 Lead rpt
with GrantB
Hidden 17/May/14 Lead O/S
GrantB 17/May/14 2nd
dominic lee 12/Apr/14 2nd
nathanlee 12/Apr/14 Lead β

Essentially onsight really. Had a little bit of beta for gear at the top which I didn't actually follow. Perfect pockets!

with Dom Lee
Ricky Rocks 11/Apr/14 Lead O/S

Amazing route, continually absorbing climbing, a really good battle...

mike mo ??/2014 -
mike mo ??/2014 -
Apharri 14/Aug/13 Lead O/S
with Jim Gayler
Hidden 29/Jun/13 2nd O/S
markalmack 29/Jun/13 Lead O/S

Such a good route. Felt so relaxed on the initial groove. I got more and more scared the higher i got. Placed my rock 7 early in the route, so didn't have it to place before the final run out. So fun. Thoroughly enjoyed it.

The old James turnbull 17/Jun/13 Lead O/S


mwatson 05/Jun/13 Lead O/S

seams decent bouldering strength will get you through most things, felt fine, got some large sideways nuts for the run out they looked ok. really happy to get this and tails on the day of my last ever university exam

Andy Peak 1 28/Feb/13 2nd

Dead hard

with dan
Keendan 28/Feb/13 Lead dog

Not a very smooth lead: Fell onto the pegs at the start. Thought it was by far the hardest part. Felt the whole route quite sustained and a bit scary. For the last runout, I managed to place a skyhook upside down above a sideways offset nut. Great combination. I broke a hold off the very top move and fell on the skyhook. It held, making the route feel safer than most accounts suggest.

with Andy
ejected ??/2013 Lead O/S
dominic lee 02/Sep/12 Lead rpt

Last done in 1980 with Dan.Looooooong time..

JBO 28/Aug/12 Lead O/S

I can't believe I've actually onsighted this! This has been a massive goal for me for a long time, and feels like a much bigger milestone than other E5s I've done. The lower groove has the technically hardest climbing, but the upper wall is quite committing and insecure, especially when your shoelace is undone! This is first route I've done with a bold, serious feel to it, so I got pretty scared a long way above gear before the last hard moves, starting to doubt if I could do it, and doubt the gear. Luckily I snapped out of it! Just brilliant.

Speeddemonsi 24/Jul/12 Lead O/S

Warmed up on Flakey Wall, was a bit disappointed, did this and was not disappointed. Absolutely brilliant.

Ally Smith 10/Jun/12 2nd rpt
harvie 27/Mar/12 Lead
gforce 16/Aug/11 Lead dnf

Fell off the tricky section on Flaky Wall and lowered off mildly grumpy.

with Emma
steve_yo 14/Aug/11 Lead O/S
with smacks
Ally Smith 24/Apr/11 Lead O/S

Bit of a journey...

with Si Clark, Gareth
Hidden 28/Mar/11 Lead O/S
Hidden 27/Mar/11 Lead
alaan 27/Mar/11 2nd rpt
with Aly
barni 14/Oct/10 Lead O/S
Adam Long 28/Jul/10 Lead O/S

Amazing. Final runout not so bold with tricams.

with Char Williams
Hidden 19/Jun/10 2nd
Martin Cleaver 26/May/10 2nd
with Dan Gibson
dan gibson 26/May/10 Lead O/S
with martin cleaver
Adam Lincoln 23/Mar/10 Lead O/S
with Duncan Critchley
Seymore Butt ??/2010 -
Ed Booth 20/Sep/09 Lead O/S
Adam Booth 20/Sep/09 2nd
feilx 12/Sep/09 Lead O/S
with Andy L
Alex Mason 09/Sep/09 Lead O/S

Yeep, done it. Scary bottom groove on shit pegs,(didnt find the bomber rock 7, unless its the one i couldnt place until after the crux) well protected crux on flaky wall, then a steady E3 5c finish. Mega.

with tony M
Cassidy 13/Jun/09 Lead O/S
with Will, Duboust
willackers 13/Jun/09 Lead O/S

Amazing, easier than Tales.

with Cassidy, Duboust
NDD 13/Jun/09 2nd
Andrew Barker 04/Apr/09 Lead O/S

An amazing climb. Plenty of good rests but a bit tiring on your feet. I managed to stay on despite both feet coming off while trying to swap feet on a rest! About as onsight as it could be considering I did Flaky Wall last year.

with Jack Symmons
morganator 22/Sep/08 Lead O/S
with Graham Schofield
lukehunt 17/Sep/08 Lead O/S
with Steve barrat
Somerset swede basher 27/Aug/08 Lead O/S

Mostly onsight although ive done flakey wall so i have done the middle bit before. Fantastic moves all the way up!

with Martin Cleaver
Luke Brooks 20/Jul/08 Lead O/S
Hidden 20/Jul/08 Lead O/S
Adam Ellwood 01/Jul/08 Lead O/S
nige 28/Jun/08 Lead O/S
with mark hounslea
Ram MkiV 25/Jun/08 Lead O/S

reeve gave me some beta about friends in pockets on the final run out, both of which in turn fell out as I climbed past them! fortunately wasn't too bothered.

with Andy Reeve
alaan 31/May/08 Lead O/S
with Broom
Ian Broome 31/May/08 2nd dog

tricky start, an goey high up!

with Al
Hidden 03/May/08 Lead O/S
Hidden 22/Apr/08 Lead O/S
robyn1 ??/2008 -
ukb shark 02/Aug/07 2nd
Toby Dunn 02/Jun/07 Lead O/S
with dave evans
Hidden ??/2007 -
Boy ??/2006 -
Dave Bond 27/Aug/05 Lead O/S
with Simon Wren
Tom Briggs - Jagged Globe ??/2005 Lead O/S
with Mark Vallance
whispering nic ?/Aug/01 Lead O/S
with Niall
Hidden 22/Jul/01 Lead O/S
craig h 01/Jun/99 Lead RP
with Chris c
ellis ?/Jun/99 Lead O/S
Jon Read ?/May/99 2nd O/S
Dave Musgrove Jnr 18/Apr/98 Lead O/S
with Al Willoner
duncan 20/Sep/97 Lead dnf

Pulled off hold on finishing ledge

with Dan Donovan
sadams 03/Aug/96 Lead O/S
with Hugh Cottom
Roget 23/Jun/96 Lead rpt
with jon
Hidden 21/Jul/93 2nd rpt
Hidden 05/Jul/93 Lead O/S
mattnuttall 15/Apr/93 2nd O/S
with Ian Vickers, Alan Holden
Rich Kirby 02/Aug/92 2nd O/S

Good day. An E5 each.

PaulTanton 02/Aug/92 Lead dog

Fell off the last move. Bugger!

with RK
AlexRenshaw 15/Jul/92 2nd
with Doré Green
Steve Walker ??/1992 Lead
with stuart muir
Eduardo Martinez ?/May/90 Lead O/S
Hidden 28/Apr/90 Lead O/S
Hidden ??/1990 -
Pete Ogden ??/1990 Lead
with Pete Brown
Billg ??/1990 Lead O/S
with Nigel Slater
Hidden ?/Aug/89 Lead O/S
Chris Wright 17/Jun/89 Lead O/S
DDDD ??/1989 Lead O/S

1st E5, sneaky rock 7

with Paul Evans
William Robertson ?/Sep/88 Lead O/S
with Emily
keefe ??/1988 -
ukb shark 02/Oct/86 Lead

Onew fall on low crux

with Mark Nicholson aka Bongo
AlexRenshaw 10/Sep/86 Lead
with Simon Donowho
ukb shark 25/Jan/86 Lead dnf
with Paul Hempstock
ukb shark 01/Oct/85 Lead dnf
with Seb Grieve
andy gittins ??/1985 Lead O/S
Hidden ??/1985 Lead O/S
Hidden ?/Sep/84 Lead O/S
Andy Nicholson ?/Aug/84 Lead RP

Thanks Derek that was a great day...We threw frisbee in the carpark then you went to the States...

with Derek Hersey
Mike Owen 19/Mar/83 Lead O/S

Both led.

with Joe Healey
Ian Jones ??/1983 Lead O/S
with Karen Ghiselli
mitch1960 ??/1982 Lead
with Dave Fernig, Howard tingle
Chris Craggs ??/1980 2nd
with Graham Parkes
Chris Craggs ??/1980 -
Brian H ??/1980 2nd

Followed Chris Gore up this in the 1980s

with Chris Gore
paul__in_sheffield ??/1980 Lead
Al Evans ??/1976 2nd

first ascent

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