UKC

20m.

Rockfax Description
Strenuous and sustained climbing up the long crack-line. Often loose and dirty, but good when clean. Needs traffic. © Rockfax

FA. Ron Fawcett 1976.

Feedback

User Date Notes
Hannes B 11 May Show βeta
βeta: Now cleaner as of May 21st. Neat route and a good warm up for the harder ones. Got rid of a few wobbly bits, replaced the tat, peg is in good condition, undug some decent cam placements, put a rope in the topout, clipped some branches. Should be a bit more fun now. There is a birdsnest in the very top at the mo, so I'll also put a lower on the tree in the next days.
Show beta
βeta: Now cleaner as of May 21st. Neat route and a good warm up for the harder ones. Got rid of a few wobbly bits, replaced the tat, peg is in good condition, undug some decent cam placements, put a rope in the topout, clipped some branches. Should be a bit more fun now. There is a birdsnest in the very top at the mo, so I'll also put a lower on the tree in the next days.
Graeme Hammond 18 Jun, 2024 Show βeta
βeta: Managed to lead all the way to the very harrowing vegetated top out without pulling anything off (top out rope might make this more sane), did fancy lowering off the tree stump. I removed a couple of extremely loose and dangerous blocks out the top crack on abseil virtually by just touching them on the way down! but there is potentially a lot more that could come out so take care. A big silver cam useful as noted below for the top of the wider top crack but also some good wires around too. If cleaned up fully it could be a classic routes.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Managed to lead all the way to the very harrowing vegetated top out without pulling anything off (top out rope might make this more sane), did fancy lowering off the tree stump. I removed a couple of extremely loose and dangerous blocks out the top crack on abseil virtually by just touching them on the way down! but there is potentially a lot more that could come out so take care. A big silver cam useful as noted below for the top of the wider top crack but also some good wires around too. If cleaned up fully it could be a classic routes.
Brannock 11 May, 2024 Show βeta
βeta: Lowered off tree stump on ledge, top crack very loose, would probably be ok with no4 Camelot. Climbing up to their is great, super pumpy filthy jugs, the hum of the substation and smell of the decomposing deer adding to the ambiance.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Lowered off tree stump on ledge, top crack very loose, would probably be ok with no4 Camelot. Climbing up to their is great, super pumpy filthy jugs, the hum of the substation and smell of the decomposing deer adding to the ambiance.
profonrock 10 Jun, 2023 Show βeta
βeta: Top out has a vicious briar - beware. Better if there were a lower off at the tree after the bulge.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Top out has a vicious briar - beware. Better if there were a lower off at the tree after the bulge.

Logged Ascents

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Guidebooks for Stoney Middleton

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Voting
High E4
Mid E4
Low E4
High E3
Mid E3
Low E3
High E2
Mid E2
Low E2
Votes cast 9
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
High 5a
Mid 5a
Low 5a
Votes cast 8
Votes cast 9
Style of Ascent
Lead
Followed
Toproped
Alt Leads
Not Set
Onsighted
Repeated
Flashed (β)
Ground Up
Not Set
Route of Interest
Archangel

Grade: E3 5b ***
(Stanage Plantation)

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