24m, 2 pitches.
Rockfax Description
A polished old favourite with a first pitch which is like climbing a bar of soap. The second has some fine positions.
1) 4b, 12m. Climb the corner to a ledge (optional belay).
2) 4c, 12m. Traverse right along the silica nodules. Either finish up the steep groove (more like HVS 5a), or keep pumping along to the Bitterfingers tree. © Rockfax
FA. D.Mellor, D.Johnson 1959.
Ticklists
UK Classic Corners , Peak Rock/7/8/Biven-Peck Partnership/1950's a Developing Decade
Feedback
| User | Date | Notes | ||
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Fiend | 18 May, 2007 |
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βeta: A good route, worth it's stars. Pleasant back and footing on the first pitch and an exposed traverse on rather interesting rock. Altogether a worthy mission! | ||
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βeta: A good route, worth it's stars. Pleasant back and footing on the first pitch and an exposed traverse on rather interesting rock. Altogether a worthy mission! |
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| mat_galvin | 10 Sep, 2006 |
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βeta: Much less tricky than I thought it was going to be. First pitch awkward. Second a joy. Good gear above the break (cams and hexes) Big grin climbing. | ||
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βeta: Much less tricky than I thought it was going to be. First pitch awkward. Second a joy. Good gear above the break (cams and hexes) Big grin climbing. |
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| Jon Stewart | 20 Jul, 2006 |
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βeta: repulsive | βeta? | |
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βeta: repulsive |
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| ginger | 31 Aug, 2004 |
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βeta: uch Big jugs on the travers, with the weirdest foot holds ever. Possibly one of the best VS's I've ever done | βeta? | |
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βeta: uch Big jugs on the travers, with the weirdest foot holds ever. Possibly one of the best VS's I've ever done |
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| Nick Smith - Climbers | 7 Aug, 2004 |
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βeta: Some cunning gear placements can be found on the excellent traverse. | βeta? | |
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βeta: Some cunning gear placements can be found on the excellent traverse. |
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| Vics | 8 Jul, 2003 |
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βeta: My friend didn't hold over the traverse and my 2nd took a bit of a swinger. Careful! | βeta? | |
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βeta: My friend didn't hold over the traverse and my 2nd took a bit of a swinger. Careful! |
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Guidebooks for Stoney Middleton
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Route of Interest
Eureka
Grade: VS 4c ***
(Kinder Northern Edges)