UKC

Rockfax Description
Hard moves through the bulge which are easier if you pull further left into Matrix. © Rockfax

UKC Logbook Description
From the left hand end of the ledge from where Rippemoff starts. There is a bolt belay here identifying the start.

Gary Gibson 2012.

Ticklists

Peak limestone north graded list - sport

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User Date Notes
dinesen 4 Sep, 2024 Show βeta
βeta: New rope up to the start of this. First hanger replaced and two bolt belay at the foot of Matricide, just left of the start. You can also ab from this, although there is loose rock below so be careful. Wire loop around the tree to the left gives an alternative ab point, or 70m rope from top belay. Grade very dependent on line taken. Wander around a bit and low 7a might be right, but much harder (and no loose holds) if you stay direct past the bolts.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: New rope up to the start of this. First hanger replaced and two bolt belay at the foot of Matricide, just left of the start. You can also ab from this, although there is loose rock below so be careful. Wire loop around the tree to the left gives an alternative ab point, or 70m rope from top belay. Grade very dependent on line taken. Wander around a bit and low 7a might be right, but much harder (and no loose holds) if you stay direct past the bolts.

Logged Ascents

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Guidebooks for Stoney Middleton

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Voting
High 7a+
Mid 7a+
Low 7a+
High 7a
Mid 7a
Low 7a
High 6c+
Mid 6c+
Low 6c+
Votes cast 19
Votes cast 17
Style of Ascent
Lead
Toproped
Followed
Not Set
Onsighted
Redpoint
Flashed (β)
Dogged
Not Set
Route of Interest
Darl - Pitch 1

Grade: 7a ***
(Chee Dale Upper)

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