Rockfax Description
Climb a slight left-facing groove to the break. Move right (thread) then up to the roof. Traverse right and pull around the roof onto ledges above. Move back left and up to triple bolts. Finish up flakes to a lower-off. Some moves shared with Matricide. © Rockfax
Feedback
| User | Date | Notes | ||
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Alan James - Rockfax | 23 Sep, 2024 |
Show βeta
βeta: I am pretty sure this route never undercut along the curving roof since that would be much harder than E3 5b and Neil suggests it was given HVS at first anyway! All old descriptions do claim that you 'undercut the roof' but it seems illogical that the FA would do this faced with a fairly natural rising line from the main break (also taken by Matricide now) to gain the right-hand end of the overlap and pull through it. | βeta? | |
|
Show beta
βeta: I am pretty sure this route never undercut along the curving roof since that would be much harder than E3 5b and Neil suggests it was given HVS at first anyway! All old descriptions do claim that you 'undercut the roof' but it seems illogical that the FA would do this faced with a fairly natural rising line from the main break (also taken by Matricide now) to gain the right-hand end of the overlap and pull through it. |
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Route of Interest
Cave Wall
Grade: E3 5c ***
(Froggatt Edge)