UKC

Rockfax Description
The arete is usually approached from its right-hand side and is tricky at the roof. It can also be started from Solitaire. © Rockfax

FA. Unknown.

Ticklists

Peak District Limestone Trad

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User Date Notes
Richardlake 20 Aug, 2021 Show βeta
βeta: The day just got better and better. Quick chat with Big Ron at the base of the crag, some awesome warm ups, got this onsight, then glanced across at the quarry on the opposite side of the road just as the Mission Impossible 7 film crew drove a train off a massive cliff! Definitely coming back to Stoney!!!
βeta?
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βeta: The day just got better and better. Quick chat with Big Ron at the base of the crag, some awesome warm ups, got this onsight, then glanced across at the quarry on the opposite side of the road just as the Mission Impossible 7 film crew drove a train off a massive cliff! Definitely coming back to Stoney!!!
Peter Bradwell 9 Aug, 2006 Show βeta
βeta: The wire below the peg is now crap as the block to the left is loose, there is a good wire above the peg, but the peg is probably holding this block in place, so it's might not be that good.
βeta?
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βeta: The wire below the peg is now crap as the block to the left is loose, there is a good wire above the peg, but the peg is probably holding this block in place, so it's might not be that good.
Fiend 7 Aug, 2006 Show βeta
βeta: Short-lived but pleasant with some fun moves. Probably 5b, it's more committing than actually hard.
βeta?
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βeta: Short-lived but pleasant with some fun moves. Probably 5b, it's more committing than actually hard.
Ram MkiV 20 Dec, 2005 Show βeta
βeta: my first lead and second route at stoney. tricky to get established up on the arete. here there is a perfect slot for a size 2 rock just left of the arete. bit of a 'hop an a skip' up from here - good move to easy ground. This route is SAFE. I know its stoney but really no reason to toprope this climb.
βeta?
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βeta: my first lead and second route at stoney. tricky to get established up on the arete. here there is a perfect slot for a size 2 rock just left of the arete. bit of a 'hop an a skip' up from here - good move to easy ground. This route is SAFE. I know its stoney but really no reason to toprope this climb.
Pythonist 18 May, 2005 Show βeta
βeta: Instead of tackling the upper section direct, the line in the guide moves around the upper corner and back - They require a bit of a reach, but are well worth doing. Slightly easy for the grade, none-the-less. Same comment as Alun - Why the peg? Any way it can be removed?
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Instead of tackling the upper section direct, the line in the guide moves around the upper corner and back - They require a bit of a reach, but are well worth doing. Slightly easy for the grade, none-the-less. Same comment as Alun - Why the peg? Any way it can be removed?
Alun 16 May, 2005 Show βeta
βeta: An interesting a worthwhile route, despite it being a two move wonder really. I didn't think the polish was too bad (for Stoney!), and the peg is rather pointless given the good nut placement directly underneath it.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: An interesting a worthwhile route, despite it being a two move wonder really. I didn't think the polish was too bad (for Stoney!), and the peg is rather pointless given the good nut placement directly underneath it.

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Guidebooks for Stoney Middleton

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Voting
High E2
Mid E2
Low E2
High E1
Mid E1
Low E1
High HVS
Mid HVS
Low HVS
Votes cast 70
High 6a
Mid 6a
Low 6a
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
Votes cast 72
Votes cast 65
Style of Ascent
Lead
Followed
Toproped
Alt Leads
Soloed
Not Set
Onsighted
Repeated
Dogged
Flashed (β)
DNF
Redpoint
Not Set
Route of Interest
The Link

Grade: E1 5b ***
(Stanage Popular)

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