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Rockfax Description
A direct version of Jasper. Climb direct to join Jasper and follow it through its crux section. Then break out right across the wall. Finish direct. Bold and seldom led. © Rockfax

FA. R.Fawcett 1980.

Ticklists

Peak Rock/15/The Dawn of Sport:A Bolt From the Blue

Feedback

User Date Notes
Pete O'Donovan 27 Sep Show βeta
βeta: I think you're wrong about this Rob. I've never led it but I've top-roped it a fair few times. After starting up the narrow groove right of Jasper Direct I continued direct to the break (it certainly doesn't join Jasper here) and then climbed the wall just to the right of the right-hand arête of Jasper (about 6a) all the way to the top. The closest I ever got to Jasper was using the flat hold on the right-hand arête of the Jasper groove for my left hand. I remember asking Ron about why he'd moved into Jasper instead of going direct and he told me he never did... it was just wrongly described in the guidebooks of the time. I don't have either of the two latest guides you refer to so I can't comment on the info they give. If there was a bit more gear lower down I'm sure it would be much more highly regarded.
 
Show beta
βeta: I think you're wrong about this Rob. I've never led it but I've top-roped it a fair few times. After starting up the narrow groove right of Jasper Direct I continued direct to the break (it certainly doesn't join Jasper here) and then climbed the wall just to the right of the right-hand arête of Jasper (about 6a) all the way to the top. The closest I ever got to Jasper was using the flat hold on the right-hand arête of the Jasper groove for my left hand. I remember asking Ron about why he'd moved into Jasper instead of going direct and he told me he never did... it was just wrongly described in the guidebooks of the time. I don't have either of the two latest guides you refer to so I can't comment on the info they give. If there was a bit more gear lower down I'm sure it would be much more highly regarded.
Rob Greenwood - UKClimbing 15 Jul Show βeta
βeta: The line within the BMC Guide is way off and the RF one is a bit misleading, particularly in its upper half, so here's our take on it: Climb the groove to the right of Jasper directly to the break, where the two routes join. Do the crux moves of Jasper, then head out right using the crack and arete/rib, until easier ground is reached. All quite alarming and bold, although gear can be found, but would unlikely to be if you were on the onsight (it is far from obvious).
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: The line within the BMC Guide is way off and the RF one is a bit misleading, particularly in its upper half, so here's our take on it: Climb the groove to the right of Jasper directly to the break, where the two routes join. Do the crux moves of Jasper, then head out right using the crack and arete/rib, until easier ground is reached. All quite alarming and bold, although gear can be found, but would unlikely to be if you were on the onsight (it is far from obvious).

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Route of Interest

The Fossarian

Grade: E6 6b ***
(Willersley Castle Rocks)