UKC

10m.

Rockfax Description
A route for those who like them short, sharp and well protected. Amble up the lower section and assault the central thin crack in the white headwall. Brief but excellent. © Rockfax

FA. Tony Wilmott Dec/1965.

Ticklists

West Country Climbs , Ultimate E1 ticklist , SW Climbs - Swanage , Memorable Climbs , Dorset Routes that are worth doing , Top 25 E Grades in the southwest , Devon and surrounding counties, 51 E1, some E2, 1 E3 and an E9

Feedback

User Date Notes
Tall Oak 11 Jul, 2021 Show βeta
βeta: Worked out a good sequence to get the gear in the crack before the main push on up the head wall. Finger locks were greasy on first try but fell. Second try and a lot of puff I was up. So pleased that ledge is solid. Its all there and a good route. Would love to have another bash it.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Worked out a good sequence to get the gear in the crack before the main push on up the head wall. Finger locks were greasy on first try but fell. Second try and a lot of puff I was up. So pleased that ledge is solid. Its all there and a good route. Would love to have another bash it.
Oli 29 Jun, 2005 Show βeta
βeta: Balcony is a significant distance to the left. Stroof is just where the ledge is very narrow. Gangway is just to the right of balcony
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Balcony is a significant distance to the left. Stroof is just where the ledge is very narrow. Gangway is just to the right of balcony
Adrian Baugh 27 Jun, 2005 Show βeta
βeta: An excellent route, though I found it easier than Balcony (HS) just to the left. Weird...
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: An excellent route, though I found it easier than Balcony (HS) just to the left. Weird...
Oli 14 Jun, 2005 Show βeta
βeta: I found it hard to place gear once committed to the headwall, and so didn't. Bomber nut in the crack though.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: I found it hard to place gear once committed to the headwall, and so didn't. Bomber nut in the crack though.

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High E2
Mid E2
Low E2
High E1
Mid E1
Low E1
High HVS
Mid HVS
Low HVS
Votes cast 96
High 6a
Mid 6a
Low 6a
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
Votes cast 90
Votes cast 86
Style of Ascent
Lead
Followed
Toproped
Soloed
Alt Leads
Not Set
Onsighted
Dogged
Repeated
Redpoint
DNF
Flashed (β)
Ground Up
Not Set
Route of Interest
Elysium

Grade: E1 5b ***
(Boulder Ruckle)

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