Rockfax Description
A route for those who like them short, sharp and well protected. Amble up the lower section and assault the central thin crack in the white headwall. Brief but excellent. © Rockfax
FA. Tony Wilmott Dec/1965.
Ticklists
West Country Climbs , Ultimate E1 ticklist , SW Climbs - Swanage , Memorable Climbs , Dorset Routes that are worth doing , Top 25 E Grades in the southwest , Devon and surrounding counties, 51 E1, some E2, 1 E3 and an E9 , Red Spot Swanage & Lulworth
Feedback
| User | Date | Notes | ||
|---|---|---|---|---|
| jrw.smith | 11 Jun, 2023 |
Show βeta
βeta: Don't bother with cams for the crack, nuts all the way. Couple of good cam placements in the break below (red and yellow) and one (green) after the crack to protect the top out but other than that, nuts, lots of nuts. | βeta? | |
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Show beta
βeta: Don't bother with cams for the crack, nuts all the way. Couple of good cam placements in the break below (red and yellow) and one (green) after the crack to protect the top out but other than that, nuts, lots of nuts. |
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| Tall Oak | 11 Jul, 2021 |
Show βeta
βeta: Worked out a good sequence to get the gear in the crack before the main push on up the head wall. Finger locks were greasy on first try but fell. Second try and a lot of puff I was up. So pleased that ledge is solid. Its all there and a good route. Would love to have another bash it. | βeta? | |
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Show beta
βeta: Worked out a good sequence to get the gear in the crack before the main push on up the head wall. Finger locks were greasy on first try but fell. Second try and a lot of puff I was up. So pleased that ledge is solid. Its all there and a good route. Would love to have another bash it. |
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| Oli | 29 Jun, 2005 |
Show βeta
βeta: Balcony is a significant distance to the left. Stroof is just where the ledge is very narrow. Gangway is just to the right of balcony | βeta? | |
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Show beta
βeta: Balcony is a significant distance to the left. Stroof is just where the ledge is very narrow. Gangway is just to the right of balcony |
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| Adrian Baugh | 27 Jun, 2005 |
Show βeta
βeta: An excellent route, though I found it easier than Balcony (HS) just to the left. Weird... | βeta? | |
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Show beta
βeta: An excellent route, though I found it easier than Balcony (HS) just to the left. Weird... |
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| Oli | 14 Jun, 2005 |
Show βeta
βeta: I found it hard to place gear once committed to the headwall, and so didn't. Bomber nut in the crack though. | βeta? | |
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Show beta
βeta: I found it hard to place gear once committed to the headwall, and so didn't. Bomber nut in the crack though. |
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Logged Ascents
Guidebooks for Subluminal and Lighthouse Cliff
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The Spook
Grade: E1 5b ***
(Guillemot Ledge)