Rockfax Description
A route for those who like them short, sharp and well protected. Amble up the lower section and assault the central thin crack in the white headwall. Brief but excellent. © Rockfax
FA. Tony Wilmott Dec/1965.
Ticklists
West Country Climbs , Ultimate E1 ticklist , SW Climbs - Swanage , Memorable Climbs , Dorset Routes that are worth doing , Top 25 E Grades in the southwest , Devon and surrounding counties, 51 E1, some E2, 1 E3 and an E9
Feedback
| User | Date | Notes | ||
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Tall Oak | 11 Jul, 2021 |
Show βeta
βeta: Worked out a good sequence to get the gear in the crack before the main push on up the head wall. Finger locks were greasy on first try but fell. Second try and a lot of puff I was up. So pleased that ledge is solid. Its all there and a good route. Would love to have another bash it. | βeta? | |
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Show beta
βeta: Worked out a good sequence to get the gear in the crack before the main push on up the head wall. Finger locks were greasy on first try but fell. Second try and a lot of puff I was up. So pleased that ledge is solid. Its all there and a good route. Would love to have another bash it. |
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| Oli | 29 Jun, 2005 |
Show βeta
βeta: Balcony is a significant distance to the left. Stroof is just where the ledge is very narrow. Gangway is just to the right of balcony | βeta? | |
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Show beta
βeta: Balcony is a significant distance to the left. Stroof is just where the ledge is very narrow. Gangway is just to the right of balcony |
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| Adrian Baugh | 27 Jun, 2005 |
Show βeta
βeta: An excellent route, though I found it easier than Balcony (HS) just to the left. Weird... | βeta? | |
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Show beta
βeta: An excellent route, though I found it easier than Balcony (HS) just to the left. Weird... |
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| Oli | 14 Jun, 2005 |
Show βeta
βeta: I found it hard to place gear once committed to the headwall, and so didn't. Bomber nut in the crack though. | βeta? | |
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Show beta
βeta: I found it hard to place gear once committed to the headwall, and so didn't. Bomber nut in the crack though. |
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Logged Ascents
Guidebooks for Subluminal and Lighthouse Cliff
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Traverse of the Gods
Grade: E1 5b ***
(Subluminal and Lighthouse Cliff)