UKC

10m.

Rockfax Description
Good, physical climbing up the steep corner and narrow chimney/crack. A forceful approach pays dividends, but don't forget to place the bomber gear. The grade has crept up from VS over the years due to hold loss. © Rockfax

Ticklists

West Country Climbs , SW Climbs - Swanage , The V.S.+ Ticklist , Dorset Routes that are worth doing

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User Date Notes
Paul Sagar 29 Apr, 2019 Show βeta
βeta: Spoke to the author of the CC guidebook at the top (Scott Titt, I think), he says two holds have fallen off this and it’s now E1 5b. It felt like it to me.
βeta?
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βeta: Spoke to the author of the CC guidebook at the top (Scott Titt, I think), he says two holds have fallen off this and it’s now E1 5b. It felt like it to me.
A123 20 Jun, 2004 Show βeta
βeta: Tough route, but very good, with a variety of climbing as the route progresses. Put in a bit of extra time to make sure your gear is really good.
βeta?
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βeta: Tough route, but very good, with a variety of climbing as the route progresses. Put in a bit of extra time to make sure your gear is really good.
Richard Horn 26 Apr, 2004 Show βeta
βeta: Maybe I was being unduly hesitant due to being hungover but I found this route extremely strenuous - I was pouring sweat by the top but it was great fun.
βeta?
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βeta: Maybe I was being unduly hesitant due to being hungover but I found this route extremely strenuous - I was pouring sweat by the top but it was great fun.
Ewan 10 Oct, 2002 Show βeta
βeta: Wasnt sure which way it went at the top......Both were 5a ish but right felt HVS and left felt VS
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Wasnt sure which way it went at the top......Both were 5a ish but right felt HVS and left felt VS

Logged Ascents

356 users have logged this

Guidebooks for Subluminal and Lighthouse Cliff

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Voting
High E2
Mid E2
Low E2
High E1
Mid E1
Low E1
High HVS
Mid HVS
Low HVS
High VS
Mid VS
Low VS
Votes cast 64
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
High 5a
Mid 5a
Low 5a
Votes cast 57
Votes cast 54
Style of Ascent
Lead
Followed
Toproped
Soloed
Alt Leads
Not Set
Onsighted
Dogged
Repeated
Flashed (β)
DNF
Redpoint
Ground Up
Not Set
Route of Interest
The Spook

Grade: E1 5b ***
(Guillemot Ledge)

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