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June 2023: some quarry infilling appears to be taking place. Future plans are not yet clear. As ever, remain polite.

1. The levelling has changed the foot of the climbs on a couple of sections by up to 2-3m, sometimes shortening and sometimes lengthening the climbing.

2. The Main and Pool area have been considerably shortened

3. There are sometimes piles of aggregate on the quarry floor, but these are only temporary.

 

There has been a significant rockfall that demolished Epicoff and Th'Way, leaving an interesting groove, which has not yet been climbed.

A locally important gritstone quarry is accessed by a public footpath from the Warland hamlet. Under the CROW act, the quarry is now open country. For many years the landowner and his son have been amenable to access by climbers. It is important that you show courtesy to the landowner and his son, whose houses you will pass as you walk up the footpath – this will ensure amicable access for future climbers. 

There is a pool at the bottom of the quarry, whose size fluctuates according to rainfall and is currently preventing access to the Pool Area and Green Wall. After you leave the public footpath, take care in your approach to the crag.

 

10m.

Rockfax Description
The compelling (and strenuous) crack leads to crucial moves round the right-hand side of the capping overhang. © Rockfax

FA. Paul Horan 1967.

Feedback

User Date Notes
JendeHoxar 2 May, 2019 Show βeta
βeta: The capping overhang has fallen down. Possibly a bit easier now.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: The capping overhang has fallen down. Possibly a bit easier now.

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High HVS
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High HS
Mid HS
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Votes cast 13
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High 5a
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High 4c
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Votes cast 13
Style of Ascent
Lead
Followed
Toproped
Soloed
Not Set
Onsighted
Repeated
Dogged
DNF
Flashed (β)
Redpoint
Not Set
Route of Interest
Womanless Wall

Grade: VS 4c ***
(Standing Stones)

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