UKC

Rockfax Description
A steep and airy upper section is the reward after an undistinguished start. Begin at a broken crack towards the right-hand side of the wall. Take the crack to a ledge and thread, and then climb up leftwards to a tiny cave and more threads. Move right on holes and pockets to reach threads and a peg and then head straight up to a steep crack that is climbed to the top. © Rockfax

UKC Logbook Description
Start at the foot of a "messy" crack beneath an impressive overhanging arete. Follow this easily to a good thread. Climb diagonally left to small cave and more good threads, then move back right following a line of holes and pockets to in-situ threads and an old peg. Move straight up past this (crux) to a steep corner crackline and follow it with continued interest to the top!

Ticklists

Best of Symonds Yat!

Feedback

User Date Notes
mishabruml 29 Nov, 2021 Show βeta
βeta: gear is a bit crap. added another insitu thread about 3m to the left of the thread on Yongona thread at the crux (left of peg) is worryingly thin/sandy, don't think it would take a lob. can be backed up with a red totem (friend 1) or number 9 gold nut in the pocket. replaced this thread with thinner cord (doubled up) and used the black static for the thread described below, leaving more room for gear/fingers in crux pocket.
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βeta: gear is a bit crap. added another insitu thread about 3m to the left of the thread on Yongona thread at the crux (left of peg) is worryingly thin/sandy, don't think it would take a lob. can be backed up with a red totem (friend 1) or number 9 gold nut in the pocket. replaced this thread with thinner cord (doubled up) and used the black static for the thread described below, leaving more room for gear/fingers in crux pocket.
Matt1234 9 Jul, 2021 Show βeta
βeta: In-situ thread replaced 9th July 2021
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βeta: In-situ thread replaced 9th July 2021
ClimbingNut 13 Jul, 2020 Show βeta
βeta: Well protected, lovely airy climbing, nice holds are always there if you go for it. One of the best routes at Symonds?!?
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βeta: Well protected, lovely airy climbing, nice holds are always there if you go for it. One of the best routes at Symonds?!?
dprib123 5 May, 2019 Show βeta
βeta: Peg has been replaced 04/19
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βeta: Peg has been replaced 04/19

Logged Ascents

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Voting
High E2
Mid E2
Low E2
High E1
Mid E1
Low E1
High HVS
Mid HVS
Low HVS
Votes cast 21
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
High 5a
Mid 5a
Low 5a
Votes cast 26
Votes cast 27
Style of Ascent
Lead
Followed
Toproped
Not Set
Onsighted
Repeated
Dogged
Flashed (β)
Redpoint
DNF
Not Set
Route of Interest
No Musketeers (Direct Finish)

Grade: E1 5c ***
(Shorn Cliff)

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