Restricted Access
November 2017 update
Reports of climbers being told to leave by security staff from the quarry and stating that they will be removing the bolts form this venue. BMC are investigating.
The owners of the site (Cemex Ltd) have approached the BMC to advise that this crag is within and forms part of a larger site that is an active and working quarry. They are legally bound by the Quarries Regulations 1999 to ensure that they take appropriate steps to prevent public access to the site, and have requested the BMC to inform climbers that climbing is not allowed at this site.
2020 update
Climbers have been heavily using this crag (especially during lockdown) with no issues. If approached by Cemtex Staff, please comply with their request if asked to leave and get in touch with your local access rep.
Rockfax Description
Start halfway up the slope on the left-hand side of the wall. Step onto the wall and trend right past a pocket, before difficult moves up the blunt rib reach an easier traverse rightwards. © Rockfax
UKC Logbook Description
Diamond wall: Start 6m left of the central groove line, halfway up an earth slope. Step onto the wall, trend right past a pocket. Make difficult moves up the blunt rib until an easier traverse can be made rightward.
Ticklists
South Wales Sevens , Dylan’s ticklist
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Logged Ascents
Guidebooks for Taff's Well West
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Melting Man
Grade: 7a ***
(Taff's Well)