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6m.

Rockfax Description
Climb up and move left to the second bolt to join the short traverse of Eat Stick, and Die to finish. © Rockfax

Ticklists

Portland for the beginner (lead climbs), Portland Unwishlist, Portland, Phil and Jens' Sub 7a Silly Name Game

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User Date Notes
Danliu 13 Jul Show βeta
βeta: Super polished footholds makes the step left with laybacking a bit harder than a 3 on lead.
 
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βeta: Super polished footholds makes the step left with laybacking a bit harder than a 3 on lead.
kk43 14 Sep, 2007 Show βeta
βeta: well i thought this should be fine for a little warm up but this is seriously polished and well followin the line is hard but not above the grade just be aware your feet will slip
βeta?
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βeta: well i thought this should be fine for a little warm up but this is seriously polished and well followin the line is hard but not above the grade just be aware your feet will slip
Fidget 27 Mar, 2006 Show βeta
βeta: I actually thought this was quite fun in the wet, but it was just the mood i was in, other days I would have hated it. I avoided as much polish as possible except that on the first ledge, which led to some quite nice technical moves - smears, splits and mantles. That of course made it much harder than 2+, tough to comment on the grade though due to the conditions.
βeta?
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βeta: I actually thought this was quite fun in the wet, but it was just the mood i was in, other days I would have hated it. I avoided as much polish as possible except that on the first ledge, which led to some quite nice technical moves - smears, splits and mantles. That of course made it much harder than 2+, tough to comment on the grade though due to the conditions.
tchnorton 30 Jan, 2006 Show βeta
βeta: Sent my girlie up it for her first outdoor lead and was surprised when she retreated. Felt pretty guilty when I then struggled with it (after climbing a few of the 4+ without difficulty)...
βeta?
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βeta: Sent my girlie up it for her first outdoor lead and was surprised when she retreated. Felt pretty guilty when I then struggled with it (after climbing a few of the 4+ without difficulty)...
Wilbur 16 Sep, 2005 Show βeta
βeta: Interesting thought..
βeta?
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βeta: Interesting thought..
steve taylor 16 Sep, 2005 Show βeta
βeta: I realised that. Dynamiting it might provide some nice new bouldering though...
βeta?
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βeta: I realised that. Dynamiting it might provide some nice new bouldering though...
Wilbur 16 Sep, 2005 Show βeta
βeta: Steve - my comment was tongue in cheek! I agree that they serve a useful purpose for beginners on TR..
βeta?
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βeta: Steve - my comment was tongue in cheek! I agree that they serve a useful purpose for beginners on TR..
steve taylor 16 Sep, 2005 Show βeta
βeta: I agree that these few routes aren't particularly pleasant, but they do keep the commercial groups of beginners in one location - as opposed to wrecking any of the other relatively low-grade climbing locations on Portland.
βeta?
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βeta: I agree that these few routes aren't particularly pleasant, but they do keep the commercial groups of beginners in one location - as opposed to wrecking any of the other relatively low-grade climbing locations on Portland.
Wilbur 15 Sep, 2005 Show βeta
βeta: I'd suggest some dynamite for this top section of the cuttings..
βeta?
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βeta: I'd suggest some dynamite for this top section of the cuttings..
davewing 7 Feb, 2005 Show βeta
βeta: Very polished, especially slippy on a damp day. Maybe OK in the dry but harder than a 2 and no fun in the wet.
βeta?
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βeta: Very polished, especially slippy on a damp day. Maybe OK in the dry but harder than a 2 and no fun in the wet.
Wilbur 31 Jan, 2005 Show βeta
βeta: If you're after easy Portland climcs head over to Blacknor South - Fallen and triple slabs - or perhaps try Godnor far north. Stay away from the cuttings beginners area!
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: If you're after easy Portland climcs head over to Blacknor South - Fallen and triple slabs - or perhaps try Godnor far north. Stay away from the cuttings beginners area!

Logged Ascents

569 users have logged this
11 users have this on their wishlist

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Voting
High 4b
Mid 4b
Low 4b
High 4a
Mid 4a
Low 4a
High 3c
Mid 3c
Low 3c
High 3b
Mid 3b
Low 3b
High 3a
Mid 3a
Low 3a
High 2c
Mid 2c
Low 2c
Votes cast 49
Votes cast 48
Style of Ascent
Lead
Toproped
Followed
Soloed
Alt Leads
Not Set
Onsighted
Flashed (β)
Repeated
DNF
Dogged
Redpoint
Not Set
Route of Interest

Fallen Slab ArĂȘte

Grade: 3a ***
(Blacknor Beach)