Magnificent, and one for the jamming master. A forceful couple of pitches that have taken a few scalps (and skinned a few knuckles) over the years. One of the best HVSs in the area. Start beneath the hand-crack that cuts through the low overhang at the base of the face.1) 5a, 23m. Climb the crack strenuously and continue past a sapling to a short, overhanging corner. Climb to an overhang and exit leftwards to a good stance above.2) 4c, 27m. Ascend the wide crack in the V-groove to the overhang at its top. Pull out right and climb the widening crack above direct to a wild finish. © Rockfax
UKC Logbook Description
A superb route. It accepts the obvious challenge, climbing the cracks that split the main face. A hard first pitch, and an exposed last one. Often failed on by leaders trying to push their grade. Technique counts here, though thugs have had the odd success! Start below a small overhang, split by a crack.
1) 5a. Climb up to the roof, hard moves surmount this. Continue up the crack,
past a tree, to a niche. Move up from this, into a vee groove capped by a roof,
pass this to belay on a ledge, beneath a chimney. (Chockstones on the left.)
2) 4c+. Climb the chimney (Peg), and move up out of this into wide cracks. Climb up these to a slightly bulging wall (possible belay). Enter the crack, that goes up the wall, by a hard move, and struggle up this. Remember to admire the position.
FA. R.Hodgkin 1936.
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