Restricted Access
The National Trust (who own the Dewerstone and surrounding land) are happy to allow climbing access but ask that abseil descent from trees is not used to prevent damage to the trees.
Seasonal Restrictions
Dates: 21 April to 30 June
Reason: Nesting Birds
Kestrels are nesting on Upper Raven Buttress - it is worth avoiding these rarely visited climbs while the birds are nesting and it is likely that the young will have fledged by the end of June.
Rockfax Description
Magnificent, and one for the jamming master. A forceful couple of pitches that have taken a few scalps (and skinned a few knuckles) over the years. One of the best HVSs in the area. Start beneath the hand crack that cuts through the low overhang at the base of the face.
1) 5a, 23m. Climb the crack strenuously and continue past a sapling to a short, overhanging corner. Climb to an overhang and exit leftwards to a good stance above.
2) 4c, 27m. Ascend the wide crack in the V-groove to the overhang at its top. Pull out right and climb directly up the widening crack above to a wild finish. © Rockfax
UKC Logbook Description
A superb route. It accepts the obvious challenge, climbing the cracks that split the main face. A hard first pitch, and an exposed last one. Often failed on by leaders trying to push their grade. Technique counts here, though thugs have had the odd success! Start below a small overhang, split by a crack.
1) 5a. Climb up to the roof, hard moves surmount this. Continue up the crack,
past a tree, to a niche. Move up from this, into a vee groove capped by a roof,
pass this to belay on a ledge, beneath a chimney. (Chockstones on the left.)
2) 4c+. Climb the chimney (Peg), and move up out of this into wide cracks. Climb up these to a slightly bulging wall (possible belay). Enter the crack, that goes up the wall, by a hard move, and struggle up this. Remember to admire the position.
FA. R.Hodgkin 1936.
Ticklists
Kernow , West Country Climbs , Rockfax West Country top 50 , Ultimate HVS ticklist , WideBoyz Crack School , South West VDiff-HVS , 100 Best South West Mid Grade Routes , University of Exeter must tick's , Going Up Rocks , Bristol Crack School , Proper Cracks UK , South West Climbs - Pat Littlejohn (1st Ed.) , 2020 Vision , The Devonman Cometh - Living in Exeter Top200. , Classic Rock Climbs in Southern England by Bill Birkett , Dartmoor UKC *** Trad , Definitive *** Dartmoor Trad , Cream first! , 2023 , Meg'n'Liz's Dewerstone slicklist , ROCKFAX TOP 50s upto e3
Feedback
| User | Date | Notes | ||
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| Jpmccomb | 23 May, 2022 |
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βeta: Bird nesting in the top crack as of 22/05/22 | βeta? | |
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βeta: Bird nesting in the top crack as of 22/05/22 |
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| Andre Clarke | 16 Oct, 2021 |
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βeta: First pitch hard and second pitch no easy option but diff easier than first. | βeta? | |
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βeta: First pitch hard and second pitch no easy option but diff easier than first. |
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| John Cuthbert | 27 Jul, 2021 |
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βeta: HVS? Really? Sandbag. Ok it was a super muggy day, but the initial crack is unbelievably slick. In fact its so polished, the patina of once rough granite shimmers in the evening half-sunshine, luring it's victim on... | βeta? | |
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Show beta
βeta: HVS? Really? Sandbag. Ok it was a super muggy day, but the initial crack is unbelievably slick. In fact its so polished, the patina of once rough granite shimmers in the evening half-sunshine, luring it's victim on... |
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| Jackscottadair | 27 May, 2021 |
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βeta: First pitch felt harder than 5A and the 2nd second pitch felt easier than 4C, weird. 2nd pitch was amazing. Took UKC advise to ensure I looked down ( didnt originally plan to!) and it definitly made the pitch more wild! (in the good sense) | βeta? | |
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Show beta
βeta: First pitch felt harder than 5A and the 2nd second pitch felt easier than 4C, weird. 2nd pitch was amazing. Took UKC advise to ensure I looked down ( didnt originally plan to!) and it definitly made the pitch more wild! (in the good sense) |
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| Iain Weymouth | 29 Mar, 2021 |
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βeta: Excellent climb. Not as much jamming on P1 as I thought! The finish of P2 is quite intimidating. | βeta? | |
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βeta: Excellent climb. Not as much jamming on P1 as I thought! The finish of P2 is quite intimidating. |
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| Tom courtiour | 13 Jul, 2020 |
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βeta: My partner got spat out by the first pitch and I very nearly did leading the top of the second. It had just started raining to be fair ???? so much fun! Amazing crack climbing! | βeta? | |
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βeta: My partner got spat out by the first pitch and I very nearly did leading the top of the second. It had just started raining to be fair ???? so much fun! Amazing crack climbing! |
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| Mark Collins | 22 Aug, 2005 |
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βeta: This was the first thing I saw on arrival and knew I had to climb it. Being rubbish at jamming I took a 30foot whipper near the top of the upper pitch, awesome! | βeta? | |
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βeta: This was the first thing I saw on arrival and knew I had to climb it. Being rubbish at jamming I took a 30foot whipper near the top of the upper pitch, awesome! |
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| Chris Craggs | 2 Jul, 2005 |
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βeta: One of the best jamming pitches in the UK! Chris | βeta? | |
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βeta: One of the best jamming pitches in the UK! Chris |
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Logged Ascents
Guidebooks for The Dewerstone
Not all climbs appear in all guidebooks
Please Login to view more details on the logged ascents
Formula One
Grade: HVS 5a ***
(Lundy)