Rockfax Description
Magnificent, and one for the jamming master. A forceful couple of pitches that have taken a few scalps (and skinned a few knuckles) over the years. One of the best HVSs in the area. Start beneath the hand-crack that cuts through the low overhang at the base of the face.
1) 5a, 23m. Climb the crack strenuously and continue past a sapling to a short, overhanging corner. Climb to an overhang and exit leftwards to a good stance above.
2) 4c, 27m. Ascend the wide crack in the V-groove to the overhang at its top. Pull out right and climb the widening crack above direct to a wild finish. © Rockfax

UKC Logbook Description
A superb route. It accepts the obvious challenge, climbing the cracks that split the main face. A hard first pitch, and an exposed last one. Often failed on by leaders trying to push their grade. Technique counts here, though thugs have had the odd success! Start below a small overhang, split by a crack.
1) 5a. Climb up to the roof, hard moves surmount this. Continue up the crack,
past a tree, to a niche. Move up from this, into a vee groove capped by a roof,
pass this to belay on a ledge, beneath a chimney. (Chockstones on the left.)
2) 4c+. Climb the chimney (Peg), and move up out of this into wide cracks. Climb up these to a slightly bulging wall (possible belay). Enter the crack, that goes up the wall, by a hard move, and struggle up this. Remember to admire the position.

FA. R.Hodgkin 1936

Ticklists

Kernow, West Country Climbs, Rockfax West Country top 50, Ultimate HVS ticklist, WideBoyz Crack School, South West VDiff-HVS, 100 Best South West Mid Grade Routes, University of Exeter must tick's, Going Up Rocks, Bristol Crack School, Proper Cracks UK, South West Climbs - Pat Littlejohn (1st Ed.), 2020 Vision

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