UKC

2 pitches.

Rockfax Description
Magnificent, and one for the jamming master. A forceful couple of pitches that have taken a few scalps (and skinned a few knuckles) over the years. One of the best HVSs in the area. Start beneath the hand-crack that cuts through the low overhang at the base of the face.
1) 5a, 23m. Climb the crack strenuously and continue past a sapling to a short, overhanging corner. Climb to an overhang and exit leftwards to a good stance above.
2) 4c, 27m. Ascend the wide crack in the V-groove to the overhang at its top. Pull out right and climb the widening crack above direct to a wild finish. © Rockfax

UKC Logbook Description
A superb route. It accepts the obvious challenge, climbing the cracks that split the main face. A hard first pitch, and an exposed last one. Often failed on by leaders trying to push their grade. Technique counts here, though thugs have had the odd success! Start below a small overhang, split by a crack.
1) 5a. Climb up to the roof, hard moves surmount this. Continue up the crack,
past a tree, to a niche. Move up from this, into a vee groove capped by a roof,
pass this to belay on a ledge, beneath a chimney. (Chockstones on the left.)
2) 4c+. Climb the chimney (Peg), and move up out of this into wide cracks. Climb up these to a slightly bulging wall (possible belay). Enter the crack, that goes up the wall, by a hard move, and struggle up this. Remember to admire the position.

FA. R.Hodgkin 1936.

Ticklists

Kernow, West Country Climbs, Rockfax West Country top 50, Ultimate HVS ticklist, WideBoyz Crack School, South West VDiff-HVS, 100 Best South West Mid Grade Routes, University of Exeter must tick's, Going Up Rocks, Bristol Crack School, Proper Cracks UK, South West Climbs - Pat Littlejohn (1st Ed.), 2020 Vision, The Devonman Cometh - Living in Exeter Top200., Plymouth Crackhead Club

Feedback

User Date Notes
jsriggs 4 Sep Show βeta
βeta: First pitch much easier than I remember, second pitch much harder!
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: First pitch much easier than I remember, second pitch much harder!
John Cuthbert 27 Jul Show βeta
βeta: HVS? Really? Sandbag. Ok it was a super muggy day, but the initial crack is unbelievably slick. In fact its so polished, the patina of once rough granite shimmers in the evening half-sunshine, luring it's victim on...
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: HVS? Really? Sandbag. Ok it was a super muggy day, but the initial crack is unbelievably slick. In fact its so polished, the patina of once rough granite shimmers in the evening half-sunshine, luring it's victim on...
Jackscottadair 27 May Show βeta
βeta: First pitch felt harder than 5A and the 2nd second pitch felt easier than 4C, weird. 2nd pitch was amazing. Took UKC advise to ensure I looked down ( didnt originally plan to!) and it definitly made the pitch more wild! (in the good sense)
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: First pitch felt harder than 5A and the 2nd second pitch felt easier than 4C, weird. 2nd pitch was amazing. Took UKC advise to ensure I looked down ( didnt originally plan to!) and it definitly made the pitch more wild! (in the good sense)
Iain Weymouth 29 Mar Show βeta
βeta: Excellent climb. Not as much jamming on P1 as I thought! The finish of P2 is quite intimidating.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Excellent climb. Not as much jamming on P1 as I thought! The finish of P2 is quite intimidating.
Tom courtiour 13 Jul, 2020 Show βeta
βeta: My partner got spat out by the first pitch and I very nearly did leading the top of the second. It had just started raining to be fair ???? so much fun! Amazing crack climbing!
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: My partner got spat out by the first pitch and I very nearly did leading the top of the second. It had just started raining to be fair ???? so much fun! Amazing crack climbing!
Mark Collins 22 Aug, 2005 Show βeta
βeta: This was the first thing I saw on arrival and knew I had to climb it. Being rubbish at jamming I took a 30foot whipper near the top of the upper pitch, awesome!
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: This was the first thing I saw on arrival and knew I had to climb it. Being rubbish at jamming I took a 30foot whipper near the top of the upper pitch, awesome!
Chris Craggs 2 Jul, 2005 Show βeta
βeta: One of the best jamming pitches in the UK! Chris
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: One of the best jamming pitches in the UK! Chris

Logged Ascents

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Voting
High E1
Mid E1
Low E1
High HVS
Mid HVS
Low HVS
High VS
Mid VS
Low VS
Votes cast 114
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
High 5a
Mid 5a
Low 5a
High 4c
Mid 4c
Low 4c
Votes cast 113
Votes cast 107
Style of Ascent
Lead
Alt Leads
Followed
Soloed
Toproped
Not Set
Onsighted
Dogged
Repeated
DNF
Flashed (β)
Ground Up
Redpoint
Not Set
Route of Interest

Moonraker

Grade: HVS 5a ***
(Berry Head - The Old Redoubt)
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