Rockfax Description
Magnificent, and one for the jamming master. A forceful couple of pitches that have taken a few scalps (and skinned a few knuckles) over the years. One of the best HVSs in the area. Start beneath the hand-crack that cuts through the low overhang at the base of the face.1) 5a, 23m. Climb the crack strenuously and continue past a sapling to a short, overhanging corner. Climb to an overhang and exit leftwards to a good stance above.2) 4c, 27m. Ascend the wide crack in the V-groove to the overhang at its top. Pull out right and climb the widening crack above direct to a wild finish. © Rockfax
UKC Logbook Description
A superb route. It accepts the obvious challenge, climbing the cracks that split the main face. A hard first pitch, and an exposed last one. Often failed on by leaders trying to push their grade. Technique counts here, though thugs have had the odd success! Start below a small overhang, split by a crack.
1) 5a. Climb up to the roof, hard moves surmount this. Continue up the crack,
past a tree, to a niche. Move up from this, into a vee groove capped by a roof,
pass this to belay on a ledge, beneath a chimney. (Chockstones on the left.)
2) 4c+. Climb the chimney (Peg), and move up out of this into wide cracks. Climb up these to a slightly bulging wall (possible belay). Enter the crack, that goes up the wall, by a hard move, and struggle up this. Remember to admire the position.
FA. R.Hodgkin 1936.
Kernow , West Country Climbs , Rockfax West Country top 50 , Ultimate HVS ticklist , WideBoyz Crack School , South West VDiff-HVS , 100 Best South West Mid Grade Routes , University of Exeter must tick's , Going Up Rocks , Bristol Crack School , Proper Cracks UK , South West Climbs - Pat Littlejohn (1st Ed.) , 2020 Vision , The Devonman Cometh - Living in Exeter Top200. , Plymouth Crackhead Club , Classic Rock Climbs in Southern England by Bill Birkett , Dartmoor UKC *** Trad , Definitive *** Dartmoor Trad
User | Date | Notes | ||
---|---|---|---|---|
Andre Clarke | 16 Oct, 2021 |
Show βeta
βeta: First pitch hard and second pitch no easy option but diff easier than first. | βeta? | |
Show beta
βeta: First pitch hard and second pitch no easy option but diff easier than first. |
||||
jsriggs | 4 Sep, 2021 |
Show βeta
βeta: First pitch much easier than I remember, second pitch much harder! | βeta? | |
Show beta
βeta: First pitch much easier than I remember, second pitch much harder! |
||||
John Cuthbert | 27 Jul, 2021 |
Show βeta
βeta: HVS? Really? Sandbag. Ok it was a super muggy day, but the initial crack is unbelievably slick. In fact its so polished, the patina of once rough granite shimmers in the evening half-sunshine, luring it's victim on... | βeta? | |
Show beta
βeta: HVS? Really? Sandbag. Ok it was a super muggy day, but the initial crack is unbelievably slick. In fact its so polished, the patina of once rough granite shimmers in the evening half-sunshine, luring it's victim on... |
||||
Jackscottadair | 27 May, 2021 |
Show βeta
βeta: First pitch felt harder than 5A and the 2nd second pitch felt easier than 4C, weird. 2nd pitch was amazing. Took UKC advise to ensure I looked down ( didnt originally plan to!) and it definitly made the pitch more wild! (in the good sense) | βeta? | |
Show beta
βeta: First pitch felt harder than 5A and the 2nd second pitch felt easier than 4C, weird. 2nd pitch was amazing. Took UKC advise to ensure I looked down ( didnt originally plan to!) and it definitly made the pitch more wild! (in the good sense) |
||||
Iain Weymouth | 29 Mar, 2021 |
Show βeta
βeta: Excellent climb. Not as much jamming on P1 as I thought! The finish of P2 is quite intimidating. | βeta? | |
Show beta
βeta: Excellent climb. Not as much jamming on P1 as I thought! The finish of P2 is quite intimidating. |
||||
Tom courtiour | 13 Jul, 2020 |
Show βeta
βeta: My partner got spat out by the first pitch and I very nearly did leading the top of the second. It had just started raining to be fair ???? so much fun! Amazing crack climbing! | βeta? | |
Show beta
βeta: My partner got spat out by the first pitch and I very nearly did leading the top of the second. It had just started raining to be fair ???? so much fun! Amazing crack climbing! |
||||
Mark Collins | 22 Aug, 2005 |
Show βeta
βeta: This was the first thing I saw on arrival and knew I had to climb it. Being rubbish at jamming I took a 30foot whipper near the top of the upper pitch, awesome! | βeta? | |
Show beta
βeta: This was the first thing I saw on arrival and knew I had to climb it. Being rubbish at jamming I took a 30foot whipper near the top of the upper pitch, awesome! |
||||
Chris Craggs | 2 Jul, 2005 |
Show βeta
βeta: One of the best jamming pitches in the UK! Chris | βeta? | |
Show beta
βeta: One of the best jamming pitches in the UK! Chris |
Please Login to view more details on the logged ascents
Grade: HVS 5a ***
(Berry Head - The Old Redoubt)