The National Trust (who own the Dewerstone and surrounding land) are happy to allow climbing access but ask that abseil descent from trees is not used to prevent damage to the trees.
Dates: 21 April to 30 June
Reason: Nesting BirdsKestrels are nesting on Upper Raven Buttress - it is worth avoiding these rarely visited climbs while the birds are nesting and it is likely that the young will have fledged by the end of June.
Magnificent, and one for the jamming master. A forceful couple of pitches that have taken a few scalps (and skinned a few knuckles) over the years. One of the best HVSs in the area. Start beneath the hand crack that cuts through the low overhang at the base of the face.
1) 5a, 23m. Climb the crack strenuously and continue past a sapling to a short, overhanging corner. Climb to an overhang and exit leftwards to a good stance above.
2) 4c, 27m. Ascend the wide crack in the V-groove to the overhang at its top. Pull out right and climb directly up the widening crack above to a wild finish. © Rockfax
UKC Logbook Description
A superb route. It accepts the obvious challenge, climbing the cracks that split the main face. A hard first pitch, and an exposed last one. Often failed on by leaders trying to push their grade. Technique counts here, though thugs have had the odd success! Start below a small overhang, split by a crack.
1) 5a. Climb up to the roof, hard moves surmount this. Continue up the crack,
past a tree, to a niche. Move up from this, into a vee groove capped by a roof,
pass this to belay on a ledge, beneath a chimney. (Chockstones on the left.)
2) 4c+. Climb the chimney (Peg), and move up out of this into wide cracks. Climb up these to a slightly bulging wall (possible belay). Enter the crack, that goes up the wall, by a hard move, and struggle up this. Remember to admire the position.
FA. R.Hodgkin 1936.
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